Well it has been running beter, but stillnot normal. I have replaced some of the items you guys recomended, checked others, and replaced some things that were due anyway. Now, for the last two days it has run smooth, but the vacume on my vacume gage sems just a bit low, and it seems to be running warm just a bit. I have a after market temp gage, not in one of the holes needed for a temp sensor needed for the computer. Anyway, I haven't replaced the timming gears and chain, seemed that, until now, the problem came and went and this wouldn't indicate a jumped tooth in the timming gears. Now with my symptons, maybe this could be?? What do you think?? And can I remove the timming chain cover without taking off the pan? Other than the pan it looks like a simple job to install a new chain. Do you get a set, chain, both gears, or can you reuse the crankshaft gear? Thanks again for any info or suggestions.

Tom

t4444@ids.net

Tom

t4444@ids.net

I recently replaced the timing chain in my Valiant, and it was a half-day job. I got a stock chain and gear set for less than $30. The gasket and seal set was another $15 and I also bought a sleeve for the crank. You do not have to remove the pan, just a couple of pan bolts.

It's a pretty simple job, but make sure you have a good puller to get the crank gear off, because they can be stubborn. The biggest pain is getting the special pan gasket installed so you can get the bolts started. You may remember a few cuss words when you get to that part.

If you have a long bolt from a V8 Mopar, it helps a bunch when you're re-installing the vibration damper.

lancer_41@excite.com

If you are in there changing the timing chain, and find that most of the nylon has chipped off of the cam gear, you probably should drop the pan and clean the pan and pickup, because you know where that stuff ends up.

fglmopar@aol.com

t4444@ids.net

You may want to think about putting a few degrees of cam advance into the setting to improve low speed performance. You can simply oval-out the dowel pin hole in the top gear and use shim stock to move the cam forward a few degrees.
DD

Hey, that's an idea worth thinking about, I rarely exceed 2500 rpm and usually it runs more around 2000 or less going down the road. As you sound like someone with experience at this, how much do you go, .020 or .030 shim? It seems like this might get you a few degrees. Until I see it and see the relationship of the pin to the center of the camshaft and the rim of the gear I don't think for my first try at this I would go even that far. Waiting for your experience here. Thanks for the idea.

Tom

t4444@ids.net

I did R&R the oil pan on my 1987 truck. It just cleared the crossmember and crankshaft without haveing to jack up the engine. The whole job is a lot nicer and easier if everything is clean clean clean. Like one one of the other guys suggested, it's a good idea to check the screen in the oil pickup. I bought a 1979 Dodge truck a few years ago and pulled the engine to give it a going over. I found the oil pickup screen packed as full as it could be with debris, carbon chunks, and what ever. Don't know where stuff like that comes from.

cfield@ll.net

.030 is fine (gets you a couple of degrees of advance)
Just be sure you move the cam forward (clockwise) and check to see if the large gear hold-down washer covers the shim so it can't get out.
DD

Thanks, sounds good, Tom

t4444@ids.net