It's not for slant but I wanted your carb experts.

I have this: weber 32/36 DFEV does really GREAT except idle. It is horrible when I have aircleaner on and filter is still clean and good when I had old carb on with it). RPM get low, charging voltage falls off, if engine is not hot enough, splutters and stalls out. I even tried to raise RPM by turning the idle speed screw but that hardly affects that at all.

I have the tuning jet kit on hand.

Note: No bogs on off-idle acceleration and from standstill and good power in midrange, high end bit weak or something slightly held back. I had to hold gas pedal while in drive at standstill to prevent dying when cold and to keep charging voltage up.

Cheers, Wizard

Is there an idle mixture adjustment on that carb? If so, read up on how to set the idle mixture. The fact that the idle speed screw has minimal effect might indicate a problem.

Check your fuel pump too, if one isn't putting out enough pressure that can happen...or if the fuel pump has some crap in it.

Chances are there is debris in the idle circuit or the idle jet is too small.

_________________
Joshua

That one solved, it was the idle mixture screw unscrewed too far.

Now another problem I'm trying to solve is this hard starting issue, the choke is closed tight, no vacuum leaks as I can have it idle low as I can go like 700RPM when hot.

When cold engine is on choke and still on fast idle cam, engine runs bit rougher and bit unhappy, strong smell from exhaust. But when choke is finishes opening, instant the fast idle screw falls off the fast idle cam the engine suddenly smoothes out even it's not that warmed up YET.

Drivablity is EXCELLENT overall, maybe could need bit retuning as I can't tell how far off the mixtures for the verturis systems. Doesn't smoke black at all.

Does that tell you the primary main jet (fuel) is too fat? Have jet kit to retune the carb.

This is Weber 32/36 DFEV on a stock 2.2 (mopar) but I wanted your carb experts.

Jetting follows:

Primary: idle jet 60
air corrector jet 170
main jet 140

Secondary: idle jet 50
air corrector jet 160
main jet 155

Cheers, Wizard

that's indeed one great carburetor. You've changed them idle jets, haven't you? maybe they were a little off (as in WAY off, rich!) so that caused idle issues. As far as for driveability, well, this kind of carburetors have a really smooth and nice control of power/conservative driving requirements, they're a little more sophisticated than the "on/off" holley power circuit concept and they're a little less... well, a little less carterish than needles.

If you have good plug readings (provided that you have a correct plug range) I'd NOT decrease in jet size. Maybe you can play a little with your air bleeds, they're interchangeable and they provide a nice tailoring feature on the fuel curve. Go a little larger in number over both idle air jet types (4 jets a 2bbl carb) or ream them a few thou. JUST a few, you'll be better if you do the job in 2 or 3 baby steps rather than screwing up in just one stumble.

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Not exactly a fix but that a clue none-less.

If I start first without choke, it will fire off instantly and before engine dies, kick the gas pedal to bring choke in then rest of warm up is ok.

argentina-slantsixer, this is why I said so on "awesome weber carb" in my allpar forum signature.

I'll try the bigger air jets unless someone states otherwise or is you are suggesting going smaller on idle jets, this jet is just right according to weber adjustment papers so I have to look anywhere else. Interesting indeed. Note: 32/36 DFEV takes mixture from the primary jets (air and fuel jets) thru a idle jet for the idle mixture screw (more like a metering screw than a mixture screw). Progression slot and idle hole (where screw needle is) is on same circuit for the idle jet.

The MPG is kinda poorer which is another clue.

There are six jets on this DFEV. Two idle jets, two air jets and fuel jets for primary and secondary.

Cheers, Wizard

webbers, some mikuni and solex has this feature. Really nice. I'd start with the bigger air jets thing and then take it from there. Some cars have richer idle specs and some slightly leaner... that's why I suggested going to slightly smaller idle jets (wich are really idle restrictions, in holleys those comes riveted inside the metering block... how nice is to be able to tailor them as you wish?) don't forget that idle jets controls both curb idle AND transfer circuit, so if you're rich on transfer, then you should decrease in idle jet jetting. If your transfer is fine, then closing the needle is the way to go about a rich curb idle condition.

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Okay.

Adjusted the weber fuel idle screw then had to crank down idle speed to spec and it's almost good for now. It also struggles with idle when engine is cold and not warmed up enough till engine is warm enough then it idles ok but barely to keep charging the battery 13.xV under load and in drive. Pressing on gas gently (trying to avoid bucking) revs up the engine a bit to get charging come alive and more smoother, and driving is no problem) Changing jettings have to be on hold till weather warm enough up so I can improve the MPG and squash that crack-throtlte jerking. I'm averaging 200KM on 45L of gas. Poor. Should be 350-400KM

Now I have a bucking spot right in the tiny spot between closed throttle as I crack the throttle slowly before throttle butterfly reaches the transition slot. Like gently rolling van slowly or reversing slowly. SHUDDERING. Jab the trottle a bit and goes past that stage and makes this bit diffcult to park.

Open throttle quicker to accelerate normally before engine have a chance to buck. So no bucking.

Cheers, Wizard