Does anyone here that has a true daily driver; have their zero-to-sixty time? I clocked mine out of curosity, and it seems slower than it should. Best time: 13.8 sec (With full interior and 2 grown passengers)

225, bored .040, shaved .100
Stock head/valves, bowl ported
264 cam/ .480 lift
Stock converter/tranny/ 2.76 rear
4-bbl w/ Edelbrock 500
Stock Exhaust manifold, with full 2 1/4 pipe.
Dizzy recurved, all in by 2400( minus Vac.)

I am aware of areas that need improvement, (Thanks Lou & Ted), but for what it is now.....it just seems slow....

Maybe I expect too much....
So....anyone have 0-60 times handy? Daily drivers only.....Slantzilla's dosn't count.

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

Yeah, that's probably slower than stock. My very stock and very tired '66 Dart would do 0-60 in about 12.5-13 seconds. My '67 Valiant with stock 225, 3-speed and 2.76 gears runs 0-60 MPH right about 12.5 seconds.

So you already know you need a torque converter, gears and better exhaust 'eh?

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Joshua

Yeah, I know I need at least Dutra Duals, 3000 stall, and 3.73 gears.
BUT....if it's slower than stock now, anything I do to make it faster is masking the real problem. What could it possibly be? Could my tranny be the problem? ( It doesn't act like it's slipping...)
It pulls 17" of vaccum, which seems slightly low.....but it's a steady reading.
I'm up for possible causes...

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

I go 0-60 in under ten seconds. It is far from stock but it is my daily driver.

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Beater Valiant clocked a 12.6 sec 0-60 with the Holley 1920 and 2.94 rear gears...

-D.idiot

Dutra Duals will help as will headers. With only 264 degrees cam duration you shouldn't need a 3000 RPM stall converter. 2400 would be fine and so would 3.23 gears for a street car. It's not cheating, it's all about making the package work together. Might need to advance the cam a bit though.

As an example I once replaced a worn stock 318 with a rebuilt one. The old engine would burn the right rear tire of my 1-ton van so I expected great things from the new engine. Guess what? I couldn't light up that tire with the fresh engine. The only real difference between the engines was the new one had a 360 2bbl cam. This killed off just enough low end torque it couldn't get enough stall speed from the stock 12" torque converter. On the freeway though the new engine required a lot less throttle opening to maintain 60+ MPH and towed great. Then I tossed the noisy 4.10 Dana 60 for a quiet one with 3.54 gears and really killed the towing and acceleration.

If you get all the components of package working in harmony the car will be much quicker and more fun to drive. One of the biggest things I've learned is if you increase the cam duration you must increase the compression ratio or you'll lose torque. Once you get to a certain duration or intake closing point the torque will fall off faster than a compression increase can restore it. If you kill off any low end torque you'll need a higher stall torque converter to restore the low speed performance. Torque moves the car so more torque multiplication from a numerically higher rear end will accelerate the car more quickly.

The reason my Valiant will be able to take advantage of it's new cam is because I'm increasing the compression ratio and changing the rear end ratio.

Always keep in mind the total package.

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Joshua

Thanks guys.....
About the stall and gear that I mentioned......I'm anticipating the near future. (My next cam will be around 240@.050)

The cam does need advancing, that is a spring project, as I need the car running now.

I thought my car seemed slow......
For what it's worth, I'm now getting 23 m.p.g. from the Eddy 500. Maybe that's why I'm slow...

I tried to keep the "total package" in mind, but it didn't go as planed. I was shooting for 9.25 to 1 compression, but ended up with 8.6 to 1.
So, I guess my engine just needs some "part blending".
Thanks again.....

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

BigBlock,

I wish we lived closer. I would like to try your intake and carb set up on my torquey engine. Maybe we could cut that 60 mph time and I could keep up the acceleration past 60 feet.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I'll second that!

It feels like my engine is on the verge of "lift-off", but it never does. It's almost like I have my foot on the brake.(Yep, I've already checked those)
I don't think it's slipping, my MPH and RPM are pretty consistant; I wondered about the kickdown adjustment. I drove it without a kickdown for one day, and I remember reading that something can get out of adjustment because of that.
For what it's worth, the car is slower since I put the cam back dot-to-dot; it was advanced 1 tooth. (15*)

The timing mark dances around about 3* when checking it with a light...

The car has a miss every so-often...makes the engine shake a little.

The exhaust makes a puffing sound: Brubrubrubru-PUH-brubu (you get the idea)

The fuel-pump makes a 'ticking' sound sometimes, and the fuel drains out of the carb line overnight. I also have a rust problem...rust particles are getting past both my fuel filters, and leaving ugly brown sediment at the bottom of my shiny fuel bowl. (That is driving me crazy,..I'm ready for an aluminum fuel cell)


The car fires up nice when it's cold, and if it's hot, you can kill it and crank it all day. But if you cut it off for 10-15 min. You have to pump it, and hold WOT before it'll crank. (fuel boiling?)

Sorry for all the details, but maybe there is something in here that gives away the problem...[/b]

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

Without a converter and some gear that car will never get out of it's own way.

Stock converter = lamp stand.

On a 150 shot my junk went 0-88 in 7.48 seconds, so the 0-60 was prolly around 4.5ish.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

My 63 dart with a stock 225, 904 and 2.76s got this:

0-57.8 in 12.2 seconds

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1963 Dodge Dart -225 Slant 6, 904, 2.76's, 18.84 @ 73
1970 Nova 12.53@108
1970 Bug 15.38@87

My nearly stock 68 Dart (OK, EFI and nice exhaust) does about 11 sec 0-60. It is my driver. 64 Dart does it in just under 6 sec.

Cam timing and/or ign timing is likely your current big problems.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

BigBlock,

I see both Jeg's and Summit are selling " Perma-Cool" part #81794
$36.88 brand fuel/water separators.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

When I was a marine mechanic, we would never commission a new boat with out one of these filters. I think that our cars after 35 or 40 years the steel lines get exposed to enough water that they start to rust internally. I know when I did SL6 Dan's fuel line mod, it was horrible looking inside that short steel line from the fuel pump to the carb. This winter I had to pull my fuel bowl off the 1920 twice to let out all the rust and water. Soon as I did this the carb was running nice and crisp again. It's odd that the stock metal Chrysler filter or other large metal filters don't capture the rust or water.

I am thinking this might be a good investment to help reduce carb maintenance. There are several brands of fuel water separators, but I am leaning towards this one since it goes down to 2 microns.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks for the replies......and thanks for the part # Ted.

O.K. I'm slower than a stock engine. I may have to go ahead with a converter and gears sooner than I thought. The cam too......it makes sense: If that cam gear is mis-marked, it could be anywhere. If it's retarded, I'm losing what cylinder pressure I have left at low RPM.
I guess a Midwest 3000 converter is calling my name too.

(Hey 'Zilla, if we're ever at a race together......I would be honored to ride in that car. It has to feel good to go that fast with a slant... )

Thanks again!

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

Thank you. It is quite a thrill. There is an outside chance I may have the car at the Bowling Green Classic in April. All I have to do to get ready yet is install the trans, finish the rear end and suspension, install the whole fuel system, and rewire the car.

Piece of cake if I ever get off of 12 hour shifts.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.