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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 3:35 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:21 am
Posts: 1614
Location: Orlando, FL
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Thanks for the replies......and thanks for the part # Ted. :)

O.K. I'm slower than a stock engine. :roll: I may have to go ahead with a converter and gears sooner than I thought. The cam too......it makes sense: If that cam gear is mis-marked, it could be anywhere. If it's retarded, I'm losing what cylinder pressure I have left at low RPM.
I guess a Midwest 3000 converter is calling my name too. :D

(Hey 'Zilla, if we're ever at a race together......I would be honored to ride in that car. :D :D It has to feel good to go that fast with a slant... :lol: )

Thanks again!
Are you looking for an early or late converter?

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27111

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Last edited by Bren67Cuda904 on Sun Feb 10, 2008 5:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 5:47 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 10:29 am
Posts: 344
Location: Tennessee
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Hey Bren,
Yep, I need the large style ('72 crank & tranny).
That is a loose converter......maybe it would stall a little less on my engine? Let me know if it's still available, and I'll shoot you a PM.

I once had a Poly 318 (not a slant, but just as unique), with a Carter BBD on it, all factory. It would run 0-60 pretty quick...., and the '62 B-body power drum brakes worked great. :wink:

Anyway, back on topic...good luck on the car, 'Zilla! Hope to race some of you folks in the near future... :D :D
Thanks again!

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:23 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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...Cam timing and/or ign timing is likely your current big problems.
Lou
I have the exact same thinking... I bet that cam is way off centerline.
What is the total spark advance? Too much total advance makes a SL6 run "flat".

You can do some checking and testing.
It is pretty easy to check total advance with a timing light.
Slants like a lot of initial (10 to 12 degrees) and about 30 degrees total, this is hard to get without recurving a distributor.

Adjust the valves and loosen the exhaust lash as much as possible with-out ticking, this will help cylinder pressure.
DD


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:53 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Apr 09, 2006 6:08 pm
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Location: Comfrey MN
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Last Sept. I took my '68 Dart to the 1/8 mile track to the "testNtune". I made dozens of passes for the hell of it, all of them were in the low 12's at 58 mph. Best was 12.092 @ 58.36mph. She was totally stock at the time. I didn't bring anything along to "test" but for the heck of it I checked the timing... the total was 40 degrees :shock: . But since it runs good and gets 22 mpg, I just left it alone.

The best thing about racing a slow car is not only the sensation of a 9 sec. car blazing by you, but the fact that by the time you get past the scoreboards you can see your ET and MPH!

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:01 pm 
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I bet if you would have adjusted your timing to something less the 40 total and made additional passes, the MPH would have increased.

I tend to run more the 30 total on the street cars, doing that gives better off-idle "feel" and mpg.
I knock the timing back if I do a lot of high speed driving or at the drag strip. (WOT)


Last edited by Doc on Tue Feb 12, 2008 8:56 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 6:35 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 10:29 am
Posts: 344
Location: Tennessee
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Quote:
Quote:
...Cam timing and/or ign timing is likely your current big problems.
Lou
I have the exact same thinking... I bet that cam is way off centerline.
What is the total spark advance? Too much total advance makes a SL6 run "flat".

You can do some checking and testing.
It is pretty easy to check total advance with a timing light.
Slants like a lot of initial (10 to 12 degrees) and about 30 degrees total, this is hard to get without recurving a distributor.

Adjust the valves and loosen the exhaust lash as much as possible with-out ticking, this will help cylinder pressure.
DD
Thanks, Doc! Yeah, Lou gave me some pointers on the car......I really need to degree the cam.
The total advance (Minus Vac.)is probably pretty close to 32* or so. My governor slot is ~.385. (It's pretty short :shock: ) It 'feels' much better with the shorter-slot....I installed a heavy long-loop spring, and a mopar light spring. It's all in by 2400 or so, the last few degrees come in s-l-o-w.
Initial is 14* now
It's looking more and more like my cam is out of line. :?
I am running looser lash......my cam called for .014/.014, and I'm running .016/.016. I am tempted to run it .020/.020
I'm kinda scared to loosen it too much.....it's a pretty steep ramp, and I would hate to bite a lifter. How do you know when to stop? (What kind of 'tick' are we talking about?....just short of a tap?) :?:
Thanks

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 6:55 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:29 pm
Posts: 963
Location: Eustis, FL
Car Model: '68 V100, '68 V200, '79 Aspen, '84 D100
'68 V200, 225, untouched motor with 2.25" exh and 30* timing running on 13" Sears tires installed in 1976
0-60 - 11.7

What kind of cranking compression do you have?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 7:04 am 
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Location: Black Diamond, WA
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Cecil,

What rear end gears does your 68 V200 have?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:47 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 10:29 am
Posts: 344
Location: Tennessee
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Update:
Moved initial timing to 10*, and time improved to 10 seconds!! :D
MPG dropped to 18, but it has alot more pep now. The cam is next... :twisted:

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 5:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Great! Moral of the story - buy a dialback timing light and spend some time on your dist curve... What is your total mech advance now?

Lou

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