My son got a new job in Utah (Provo, near Salt Lake City). Apparently they have tough smog tests and even his 73 Duster will require an emissions test. I looked on their DMV website and it was not much help. I plan to call them. Does anyone have any insight into this? I can't believe an old car is not grandfathered. The car is 73 Duster with 225 and Holley 1920. The engine is newer and has hydraulic lifters. About all it has for smog equipment is a charcoal canister, PCV and EGR. Any idea what standard he must meet, is it possible to meet and how can he meet it? I'd hate to move the car up there and not be able to make it. In that case he would be better to leave it here and get it if he moves elsewhere later or sell it or something. I am assuming the standard depends upon year of the car or engine but I am not sure what that is. Any information would be greatly appreciated as always. Thank you.

Don't panic or get manic, there's nothing to worry about here. The emissions standards for all state inspections are set such that a car will only flunk if it's running a lot dirtier than it's capable of running. And yes, the standards vary by vehicle model year. This official PDF lists the limits for various model years. From it, we see that the limits for '70-'74 models are 5.0% CO and 700 ppm HC, and NOx isn't tested. This isn't a "tough" test or anything like it; it's a very lax test standard, and a '73 slant-6 in good repair and proper tune will easily pass it even if the EGR system's been entirely removed. For reference, the standards in Denver-Metro for my '65 were 5.0% CO and 1000 ppm HC, and it regularly tested at 0.2% CO and around 180 ppm HC, with no special tuning, no desperate dumping of alcohol in the gas tank, and no other special tricks. If it had been out of tune, or the engine had been really worn out, it would've (and should've) flunked as a gross polluter. Exhaust containing anywhere near 5% CO and 700 ppm HC is filthy.

The complete Utah emission inspection protocol is here. It's pretty basic: original-equipment emission devices have to be in place, timing and idle have to be within specs, $100 repair cost waiver cutpoint, etc.

So, no worries. Nothing to get concerned about here. If it'll make it from TX to UT, it's capable of being made to pass with flying colours.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

That is awesome. Thanks a lot. We don't have those tests in west Texas at all so we don't even have a place I can go and have a trial run done on the thing. I do have the hose to the EGR pinched off right now because I could never find a functioning vacuum booster to put into the vacuum circuit and I didn't want it always puling vacuum (although it IS in line with the temperature switch so it pulls vacuum only when warm and I have it on direct manifold vacuum). Any pointers here would also be greatly appreciated. I will tune it up once more before shipping it off. I was actually going to ship it with his property and we were going to fly up rather than drive it our haul it up. Overall, it runs fine so I feel much better. Thank you once again.

Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Don't forget to adjust the valves. Just put a ball bearing in the EGR hose; they don't test for NOx, and EGR is a NOx control device.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Great thanks. I have hydraulic lifters so I don't need to worry about adjusting valves. I will give it a good tune up otherwise next week. We were probably about due anyway.

Ah, so it's an '81-up engine. Then the spark plug recommendations won't apply, either.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

When we got it, we pulled the heads because there were a couple blown valves. I had the heads machined, valves replaced and hard guides replaced. I replaced all the lifters, pushrods, rockers, timing gears and chain, distributor, carb, ALL ignition components. Since then I have also replaced the oil pump, water pump, differential, rebuilt auto tranny. I have replaced every piece of the brakes and suspension as well. It actually should be in pretty good condition. I do not like to let family members drive cars unless I am sure it is as safe and reliable as possible. I just have never had to mess with the smog stuff before. I bought the thing for $250 so I got a sweet deal.

Well, my son just called me and he failed because they couldn't get the car up to 2500 rpm. This is interesting because I have posted here in the past about how I could NEVER get an rpm reading from this car. This has ALL NEW ignition components and wiring under the hood. EVERY SIGNLE component of the ignition system is new. In fact, it has actually had a couple different new (rebuilt) distributors in it. I have checked and rechecked the wiring against the diagrams and all the suggestions here. And yet, I have NEVER gotten rpm to register on my meter. Or, on two different meters for that matter. I have always just had to adjust idle by ear. However, in this case, I believe their gadget uses the number one plug to determine the rpm. They said about the highest they got it to go was about 1900 before it dropped down. Any ideas what might cause that? I would add that we have the vacuum canister set on the rather sensitive end on the advance because that is where it seems to idle best while in gear. If we make it less sensitive, it stalls when warm and in gear at a stop. Could THAT be the issue? Thanks again for all your help.

Sounds like the timing is off a tooth or your fuel line is plugged or the fuel pump has a hole in the diaphragm. (not enough fuel pressure)
You don't have a fuel regulator on your engine do you?
What happens at 1900 rpm?
What sound does it make?

What happens when your cruising down the road at 60 mph and then step on it? Does it kick down and take off or die?

What kind of mileage are you getting with this condition?

My SL6 will wind to 4000 very quickly and smoothly with out breaking a sweat. I have a tach hooked up (goes to the negative coil post) and a vacuum gauge to monitor my driving habits.

Give us some more info/hints......

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Yes, some more specificity would be good. I'm not clear on whether the engine won't rev past 1900 rpm, or it'll rev up just fine, but a tachometer connected to the engine will not register over 1900 rpm. One would be a serious running problem, and the other would be a wiring problem. If you'll clarify that point, I'm sure the problem won't be too hard to track down and fix.

As for stalling in drive when coming to a stop: This suggests a timing configuration issue. The vacuum advance should not be adding any advance at idle. If it is, and that's the only way to get the car to idle well, then the extra advance is masking problems that need to be solved before the car will run correctly (or pass an emissions test).

What is your basic timing set at, with the engine idling at 700 rpm and the vacuum advance disconnected and its carburetor nipple plugged?

What does the timing jump to when you connect the vacuum advance hose at idle?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well, unfortunately, I was not there (I am in Texas he is in Utah with the car). However, I can give you what he told me and ask him for more details plus tell you what I know from past history. As for the rpm, it has NEVER EVER registered rpm with ANY tach. The ENTIRE ignition system and wiring harness is brand new. I have checked and rechecked ALL wiring many times and even used continuity checks of each connection rather than rely on the colors of the wires at each end (in case there was a problem under all that tape). However, when placing the tach on the neg coil post it NEVER registers and never has. So, I have never idled at 700 except by ear. I even thought my old dwell tach had finally died and bought a new one but it too failed to register.

He tells me that the test equipment they used uses the number one plug wire to determine the rpm. He said that it would come to about 1900 rpm and then shudder and drop down. When driving (again without a tach connected), it has never been unresponsive nor has it dropped out at any speed. I will say when punching it, it has never down shifted the auto tranny to allow better acceleration. I have the timing set at 12 before because that is about the best place it runs without stalling at idle in gear when warm. This has been a continual frustration with this beast from day one. I have checked for vacuum leaks with propane many, many times and never found any. Compression is always even and within specs. The best vacuum I can ever pull is around 18. However, whenever it is warm, in gear, at idle, it drops very low rpm, oil pressure drops to about 5 lbs. That was why I goosed up the timing and have the vacuum pot very sensitive. In fact, if I tweak it ever so slightly in the more sensitive direction, when running, it will cause the engine to increase and decrease rpm when holding steady throttle. That is why I suspect perhaps turning that back a tad may be the answer. However, that will not then answer why it does not idle well in gear when warm and why I cannot measure rpm under normal means. It is also a brand new carb (not rebuilt) Holley 1920 and that made some great improvements over what it was.

Thanks again.

I forgot to answer a question. It does not have a fuel regulator on it. The fuel system is also pretty new. The tank, sock, gauge sender, pump, basically everything but the line from the tank to the pump is new. Prior to shipping the car, I tuned it up with new plugs, cap and rotor as well. Unfortunately, I am here and he and the car are there. His tools are in his household gods. They will not be delivered until after he closes on his condo at the end of the month. He has 15 days to fix this and get reinspected. I hate to say it but he may have to....shudder, gasp...put it in the shop. Being new up there, he is taking his chances with that as well. Generally speaking, has anyone had experience with Pep Boys work? Someone there recommended them for the work. Unless you folks have your ususal miracle cure, he may have to resort to dealing with the devil on this. Thanks again. I would STILL like to know your thoughts anyway since this has frustrated us for so long.

Have him disconnect the vacuum advance, plug off the carburetor nipple, and then see if the engine will rev above 1900. It sounds like you may well be getting much too much advance. My '65 at one point in its life developed a bizarre set of symptoms: at any kind of a fast idle in Neutral, it would skip and misfire and cough. No problems with acceleration in gear or steady cruise even at the same engine RPMs that caused the poor running in Neutral. Turns out there was too much total advance; disconnecting the vacuum pod immediately stopped the poor running, and getting the distributor installed correctly (it was a tooth advanced, if I remember right) solved the problem.


Your no-tach-reading problem is interesting and strange indeed. I would like to see that car in person; there's no good reason why you shouldn't be getting a tach reading with a correctly-connected, working tachometer. One way or another, that problem has to be solved and fixed, for the '70s systems really do require accurate setup. The idle speed has to be set correctly to spec, as does the timing, or the throttle plate won't be in the right place at idle relative to the vacuum advance and idle transfer ports in the carb, and you'll have idle/stalling/running problems and/or dirty exhaust that won't pass the test.

You don't need a fuel pressure regulator.

DO NOT go to any of the chain parts stores for vehicle service; you will regret it sorely and expensively! They are incompetent boobs, every last one of them, scarcely even qualified to change your car's oil. You need a mechanic, not a parts monkey. If it is determined that professional service will be required, get in the yellow pages, find small service shops, and start calling around until you find one who doesn't laugh or hang up when you ask about having a '70s car repaired.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

So, when can you come to Provo Dan? It would probably be cheaper to have you come down than pay someone up there, especially since we have no idea who to call. I believe you are correct that this is probably not a major and difficult thing and that once we can solve the tack issue, the rest may fall into place. He also needs to have some suspension work done to pass the rest of the inspection. That was all new too so I am not sure if the inspection guys are qualified to even look at an old car of if we got bad parts or what. I wish I could be there with my tools to take care of a bunch of this. He doesn't even have his tools yet either.

I also forgot to add that for a car of this age he can get a waiver after he has spent $100 on getting it to pass the emissions test. However, that has to be spent for qualified emissions repair. Not sure if that means he is covered only if he is paying for PCV, EGR etc. or if this would be also considered. I suspect not but that may at least buy him some time if not since he has 15 days to get it done.