Im finally replacing my leaking exhaust gasket. When I take the nuts off of the studs and disconnect the exhaust at the bottom, should the intake/exhaust manifolds come off easily or will they be hard to get off?

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Ronnie
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2714941

When I did mine, all the bolts came out easily; there's a good chance I got lucky.
When putting it back together, I made the critical mistake of not seeing the difference between inch/pounds and foot/pounds.
Do not overtighten the flange bolts on reinstallation, or you will be in the same leaky boat that I'm in.

On the other hand, I'm sure the job will go much quicker the 2nd time..

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1975 Duster 225, same thing in a van.
Also a bunch of Neons.

The manifolds will come right off once all the nuts are off.

The difficult piece of the puzzle is the nuts themselves. Start soaking them with penetrating oil now... don't be afraid to heat them red hot with a torch if need be... broken studs are a pain. Drain the antifreeze first, as it is entirely possible that you will back out a stud as you try to remove the nuts, and some of the studs go into the water jacket.

When reassembling, use the article posted on this website for great tips.

Lastly, consider using a a gasket with some crush potential. Do a search on Remflex... they have been well spoken of.

All in all, this is not a hard job, and once you do it the first time you'll be a pro!

-Mac

I guess I didnt get all the nuts off because I cant pull it off. All the nuts so far have come off very easily besides one, but when I was unscrewing the nut the whole stud came out.

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Ronnie
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2714941

If you use Doorman brass nuts they will come off pretty easy the next time because they will not rust on to the stud. On install use silver "Never Seize".
I have had mine off and on several times replacing gaskets and manifolds. The ROL brand is not so good, Aussie one is ok, just don't spring a leak around the studs, the Aussie gasket will delaminate. The REMFLEX gasket seems to be working very well and has plenty of crush.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

75PlyDuster: There are 13 studs holding this in place. Did you get all 13 nuts off?

If they are all off, and the exhaust pipe is disconnected, then the intake and exhaust manifolds will come off together. You may need to pry just a bit to get them loose.

There are 3 bolts that hold the intake to the exhaust, but you really don't need to separate the intake and exhaust manifolds to remove them.

-Mac

BTW: I just did this procedure on my car a few months ago. Twisted off the innermost bolt that holds the intake and exhaust manifolds together. But after everything is fixed you will be amazed at how much more pleasant it is to drive without that putt-putt-putt of the exhaust leak.

Is there any way to get rusty nuts off? All the nuts from the studs came off easily, but the exhaust manifold to exhaust nuts seem like they are rusted with the stud. Ive tried penetrating oil and it doesnt seem to help at all.

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Ronnie
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2714941

Give 'em some more time; penetrating fluid doesn't work right away.
If you have a torch, some heat would likely help.

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1975 Duster 225, same thing in a van.
Also a bunch of Neons.

Yes, Kriol.........it works in minutes.....amazing stuff!

However, just buy new brass nuts and studs and some loctite for the studs.
Use silver Never Sieze on the new studs with the brass nuts.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I feel so stupid. I just found out I was turning it the wrong way. Dont know how I made that mistake.

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Ronnie
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2714941

Rightie tightie,
Lefty loosey.....


(unless it's lug nuts on the left side )

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I second that. If it weren't for that stuf I never would've gotten the leaf springs off my truck. PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD-40 all have NOTHING on Kroil. I keep a 1gal can in my garage.

Matter of fact, I think that's one of the ingredients in Dan's engine cleaner soup recipe...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I hit the nuts with PB Blaster and let it soak in for a day or so, then slowly tried to loosened the nuts. I repeated this cycle over a few days and avoided over-torquing the rusted nuts and breaking off a stud.

Within a week I was able to remove the manifold with all studs in good shape. I then soaked the nuts and washers in PB Blaster. Some of the other products may work well, also. A friend mentioned PB Blaster to me and it work fine. Whatever you use, patience is the key.

-TJ

I finally lost patience with my manifold to exhaust-pipe-flange studs when I had to replace my intake gasket.

It's not a terrible sin to simply twist them off and be done with it, then replace them with nuts and bolts. Much easier to deal with the next time, as you can simply twist them off again if they have seized.

The one that gave me real fits was the innermost bolt that holds the two manifolds together (just inboard of the carburetor). That one twisted off, and I had to drill it out, tap the hole, and replace it (this time with a grade-8). I believe Dodge replaced that bolt with a heavier one sometime in the early 70s.

-Mac

I had a neighbor jump up and down on a lug wrench, as I tried to remember how to say 'left' in Spanish. Escierda, or something. Replaced them all with right-hand thread, including broken one You can't blame a guy for trying to help.