Cox Brothers Inc. will soon be offering slant six roller cams. We have had a small run of blanks manufactured for testing. These blanks include the fuel pump eccentric and oil pump drive gear. (I HAVE SOME REALLY COOL PICTURES AS SOON AS I FIGURE OUT HOW TO POST THEM) Doctor Dodge is helping us locate a manufacturer for the bronze gear required to run the stock oil pump. The latest update said before the end of the year we will be testing. The Doc (being the casting wizard he is!!) has also come up with a really cool casting. We are trying to find the most economical approach to making these cams (cast vs. billet). To have these first couple made was very expensive and they are only rough ground at the lobes. They also require a set of big block roller lifters, making the whole package kind of pricey. Now that the core work is complete the price will only get better if we make a very large run of these blanks. Here is where the problem is. The blanks we have now are race cores(The one Jim and I will test has a .700 lift). You can only modify the profile slightly, at the finish grind, after the cores are hardened and straightened. This might require different blanks for street use vs. racing use. We do not want to make a whole bunch of something that nobody wants. I would like to know what all of you think ?? If you could pick any profile, what would it be?? I am going to try to use the online poll available here to get an idea.


I would like to thank a few people for their support with this project:
Bob Stepp
Doug Dutra
Team Green
Every on else who has shared info with us so we could all go faster

Is the reason you are looking at big block lifters the diameter? Because it would sure be neat (and probably cheaper)to use small blk factory(mama mopar) lifters.

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'70 Cuda AAR
'74 Duster 360
'79 MagnumGT
'79 Chrysler 300

we use the big block lifters because they are a direct drop-in part. If you come up with another application with the same specs, let me know. We are trying to decide which sets to offer in our catalogue.

By drop-in, then, you mean that there is no block machining necessary for the roller cam swap?

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'70 Cuda AAR
'74 Duster 360
'79 MagnumGT
'79 Chrysler 300

The other "special" parts needed for a roller cam is a cam stop or "button" and a bronze gear for the oil pump.

The lifter should "drop-in" and not need any special machining.

Does anyone know if the Small Block and Big Block Mopar use the same roller lifter? Either one may work, I do know the diameters are the same but the height and "tie bar" sizes could be different.
DD

I don't know the answer now , but I've got some 360 magnum variety roller lifters in the garage , so I'll bring home the digital caliper tomorrow and check height / width etc. and post it , as well as the dimensions for the tie bars. I'm assuming the height you'd want would be from the bottom of the roller to the top of lifter ?? (or would it be to the top of the inner plunger??) If we happen to have some new in the box lifters in stock at work , I'll measure those.

Aren't the 360 magnum lifters hydraulic rollers? The slant six would need a solid roller.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Why?

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

I think the racing /6 roller cam profile is all that's needed. The stock /6 cams are OK for most of us. The roller cams would reduce fiction and lower oil temps a little. I'd like to have a mild roller camsahft for a /6 turbo motor, but the racing fellows need the big bump stick more than I ever could justify it.

I think the roller camshaft would have to be steel, starting with a casting sounds like a better idea if you're going to make a hundred or so. Otherwise the billet might be cheaper.

Good job!

Ooops , I guess your right Charrlie. So much for that idea

The '88 to '91 hydraulic lifters would probably run on a street version profile with a correct length tie bar. The downside is they are supposed to be heavy and not like a lot of RPM and may not follow a radical profile very well. The '92 and newer Magnum lifters oil thru the pushrods and would require special rockers. They are also heavy and not favorable to high RPM. I've got a brand new set of Comp Cam 829s from a former race car, just don't have a motor worthy to put a roller in. One thing about running large profile rollers, it pays in the long run to keep good springs on them. Weak springs are hard on the rest of the valve train. When vale float starts, it beats up the lifters, valve job, etc. Some setups need springs as early as 80 runs. It depends how aggressive the cam is and how good your set up is ( spring height, spring material, rpm, heat, and many other things).

Cecil

I agree that making the roller cams for full race cars makes the most sense. I can get an Isky cam for a street driven car...or try the full race stuff on the street anyway!

On the other side of the coin, I was thinking that a high lift version of a very mild cam might be good for use with a turbocharger.

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'68 Dodge Dart 4dr Sedan

I've searched high and low here in Australia for a roller cam for my slant 6 and am on the brink of going for a billet custom $$$ bumpstick.
Where oh where are these Cox Bros. Inc roller cams and are these available for the market yet?
I'd like to run a roller stick of 230/230 @ 0.050" with a moderate amount of lift to suit a potent turbo combo on my motor(s) for all out racing only.
Any info would be very welcome.

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We are thankful and live each day as if we had no tomorrow.

This thread is 9 years old. I am pretty sure the Cox Brothers went out of the SLant parts business.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

The .904" Mopar lifter diameter allows for a pretty fast rate of lift. If that's not enough you can do mushroom lifters and it will still be much cheaper than a roller.

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Joshua