So yesterday when I was on the freeway, I stepped on the gas to get to speed and my temp gauge from it's usual reading (dead center between hot and cold) to marking all the way cold (no reading).

Then today, I drove to my buddy's house a few blocks away. No problems. When I went to leave, the car wouldn't start.

I checked a lot of things and still can't figure out. I checked:

Plugs, new.
Wires, dirty but good.
Distributor cap was good, just sanded the contacts a bit.
Rotor looked good.
Alternator is pretty new and starter cranks over every time.

This car usually starts up everytime, first try.
It cranks over no problem, but it isn't firing.
It has gas in it too.
Any help is much appreciated, just trying to trouble shoot this problem. Thanks again!

Ballast resistor

Did you check the voltage at the coil? You can use a test light to see if you have anything, then back track to the resistor and check voltage on each end of it.

There is a fuesable link that powers up the main circuits. It has a square tag molded to it and a fuse holder like connector on it. Check it for voltage on each side.

Let us know what you find.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Can be the coil too.. you pulled a plug wire off the plg and had your buddy crank it over while you kept the end of the wire about 1/4" off the fender or valve cover right? (that should tell you if you have spark...)

Ballast resistor most of the time will 'light' the car off, but die when you let go of the key...

-D.idiot

Okey dokey, I went to Carquest and bought a ballast resistor.
I installed it, tried cranking the car and I smelt an electrcal burning smell.
I looked under the hood and the ballast resistor was starting to smoke, so I disconnected it and turned the car off.

Obviously I have a short somewhere, correct?
Also, I bought a cheap multimeter. I'm pretty crappy with electricity but I will try to follow any instructions you guys give me. Thanks!

How about the year of the car or at least the type of ignition system. Stock points, stock electronic or something else?

The ballast resistor will get hot. It's made of ceramic because it gets hot. If the coil or coil wiring is shorted then it will get very hot. I would disconnect the + coil wire, reconnect the ballast resistor and check the voltage between the wire formerly connected to the + coil terminal and a good ground. You should see within 1 volt of battery voltage. Also, with that wire still disconnected from coil + check the resistance between the coil - and coil +. Use the lowest ohms setting and report your results please.

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Joshua

I have regular points.
225 slant six.
1967 Barracuda.
I will check all those things (and hopefully don't get shocked) and I will be back. Gracias!

Voltage was 11.08 volts.
No resistance.

Thanks for explaining how to measure all this stuff too, electricity was never my forté, but I am learning thanks to you!

No resistance in the coil would mean it's internally shorted.


You need about 1.5 ohms.

A quick test is to borrow one from another car and then see what happens.

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

BMXICAN,

There could be a short in the wire going from the coil to the resistor. The coil wire is bundled with the alternator output wire. Check along the valve cover and take a close look at the wire bundle. Sometimes they can get so hot they will burn off the insulation and short out. If the coil wire is bare along the way and touching the engine block or valve cover, that could short out the resistor, or if the coil is shorted out. Test the coil from post to post and tell us how many ohms you see. Should be over 100 ohms, some run as high as 300 ohms. Then check each post to the tower (center).

Let us know what you find.

I had a short in mine and ended up rewiring the bundle from the connector block to the coil, alternator, temp sender, oil sender etc... No more problems.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Well, I checked the wiring across the valve cover and found a mouse eaten wire. I fixed it and she started right up. Thank you so much!

Now if I could get the temp gauge to work again!

Your welcome! Glad to help.

Trace the line from the temp sender, you may find a break in that one too!
That part of the harness can get pretty crusty.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Considering the new ballast you bought- Hold on to both. Its good to always have a spare handy in the glovebox for the next time.

For sure, I always keep spare parts and tools when rolling around!
I'll check it in the A.M. Thanks again for all the help fellas!