Could someone tell me which carburetor was used in a stock Feather Duster with the slant six, also the distributor. The reason I ask I would like to use the same set up on my Dart. Is there an article on changing my points to electronic ignition? If not what is needed to complete this update.
Thanks,
Brian

You'll have to plumb in the late radiator for the EGR temp/vacc. switch, as the distributor has a lot of advance all the time so you engine will ping at most settings... (also the Feather Duster uses the 'late' camshaft)


-D.Idiot

If you are trying for better fuel economy, you'll do better stating that as your goal and working forward from there, rather than specifying the '76 Feather Duster/Dart Lite components. This is for several reasons:

1) Options are now available in carburetion and ignition that didn't exist when the '76s were being built, and

2) You do not have to comply with the 1976 Federal emission certification protocol, because this is not 1976 and you are not trying to introduce new 1976 vehicles into the marketplace for first sale, and

3) Your specific needs and vehicle configuration probably aren't the same as those involved with the '76 Feather Duster/Dart Lite cars.

All of this adds up to the Feather Duster/Dart Lite configuration not necessarily being the best one for you to put together.

So...what vehicle are you working on, what engine and transmission and rear axle and tire size, what modifications done so far (if any)? Please be as specific as possible.

There are many ways of retrofitting electronic ignition. Most of them start out with a Chrysler electronic distributor. Where to get the distributor and what other components to pick out and install depends on your budget, your abilities as a do-it-yourselfer, and (here's that word again!) your goals.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My intentions are the best fuel economy as possible, I have a 1963 Dart 170 with a 225/3.7 with a 1976 A833 OD transmission. I jacked up one rear tire, gave it one rotation and the drive shaft turned a little over two times, I know there are 41 teeth on my ring in the differential so I guess my gear ratio is 2.7? or 2.93, also I'm running 195/75/14 everything is stock 63' with not modifications. My next project is to re-wire/replace all old wiring with new, I figured I could include an electronic ignition while I'm at it. The reason for the initial questions was because I was reading an article on the Feather Duster in Allpar site, it's 22 mpg city, 30 mpg hwy is really appealing and since my Dart is a bit lighter I would like to see if I can get close to the same economy.

Don't forgot those were EPA mileage figures.

And we know how accurate those are...............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

24 and 36 are the actual EPA sticker numbers... there are members (and my parents back in the day) that did get the 30-32 mpg highway number on the flats of I-5 doing the Portland to Salem run daily....but as always you have to drive like there's an egg under the pedal or the timing curve would tell you with the nice underhood rattle....

-D.Idiot

OK, good info on your setup. Unless your normal cruising speed is in the range of 100 mph, if your rear axle is indeed 2.76 or 2.94, that's somewhere between "too tall" and "way too tall" for good everyday economy with the overdrive trans. Lugging the engine will louse up your mileage just as badly as over-revving it, because unless you're taking 45 minutes to go from 0 to 60, your foot will be in the power valve all the time trying to keep up with traffic. Optimising the whole setup to match your driving conditions as closely as possible will go a long way towards maximising fuel economy.

You can do better than the FD/DL carburetor; if you're wanting to stay with a more or less factory type carb installation, then a Holley 1945 Economaster carb — for example — in good condition, properly configured and tuned, will give you better mileage and driveability than even a brand-new FD/DL-spec 1945 carb (which you would look very long and hard to find). If I don't post my list of new carbs for sale soon, join the chorus reminding me (Yes, folks, it will happen soon; I'm just trying to get/keep caught up with life).

Ignition system: HEI upgrade, with a Chrysler electronic distributor curved to closely match your driving conditions. If you want the long-throw vacuum advance that was used on the FD/DL cars, it is still available new.

Emission control system: None needed on a '63, except for the PCV valve. If you're interested in wringing every last bit of mileage from the car, then install a charcoal canister to trap fuel that would otherwise evaporate from the tank and carb vents and escape uselessly into the atmosphere. Such an installation is easy.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I think I'd go for a different can... that can pretty much is all advance during most of the driving (not at idle, and not if you have the carb floored...)...

-D.Idiot

DI,

What was the amount of advance on the Feather Duster can? Do you know the part#? and or what was stamped on the arm?

I am running a 11R can at the moment (a VC 208). I like it allot! With the 2.76 gear ratio. It's like overdrive!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

VC-208 is the Feather Duster/Dart Lite advance can.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan!

Is the 1945 Economaster different from a standard 1974 or 1975 1945 Holley?
Did they change the venturi to the wagon wheel style? like they did in the 1920 Holley's?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

How much would lower profile tires help in bubs63dart's setup, or is a differential swap advisable. I have a similar setup at this point.

The old 195/75/14 bias ply show 25.5" tall for the stock tire. My P235 60 14's are 25.1. I feel these tires are much safer on the twisty roads along the foothills. Can't say mileage has suffered, only better after the rebuild and distributor recurve and bigger 2 1/4 exhaust.

It would be interesting to know if anybody has gone with a smaller tire with a 2.76 ratio and what they have experienced in terms of mileage, etc.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

3874801

Should provide 2-7 distributor degrees @ 7" of vacc. and under 8.5" it's 9-12 dist. degrees (so at any road speed except full throttle you should have anywhere from 4 to 24 crank degrees... theoretically at 12 init + 7 off idle + 24 with full vacc. off idle, and warmed up... you're at 43 degrees of advance... which is more than most cars would want at that point)

-D.idiot

"Per TSB P-808-C, 8-07-76..."

Thanks DI!

I should really take it easy driving my car once to see what kind of mileage I can get of it, or take it on a trip. I get in it and its too tempting to play.

Doc hit the nail on the head with this engine build.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG