Do you guys reccomend using ARP main and rod cap bolts and head studs for the following build? :1964 225 block, 280 deg .465 lift cam, Clifford shorty headers, Offenhauser 4 bbl, Edelbrock 500, head ported, big valves, milled .100", block bored anywhere from .040-.080" over (not sure yet, block is at the shop). I won't be racing the motor, but I sure won't go too easy on it. Let me know what you guys think.

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Stephan Nelle

I'd just do the rod bolts.

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Joshua

Agreed. If you go with the main studs, you's have to get the block align-honed (not a bad idea anyway, though), and head studs make head removal/installation more challenging on a slant.

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vm

+2.

I have a set of head studs in my turd and I'm not sure they really helped seal the head gasket anyway.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

+3,

if I was to want a little more protection and was goign to try and turn higher RPM then the main studs would be what I added. It would need lign honed then, but that can only make it better if done right.

Jess

I did all 3, but recommend just the rod bolts for that one.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

I would say that the rod bolts are all that is "needed" as well. You really should have rods resized on any complete rebuild anyway, so why not put some good bolts in?

I like head studs for their bullet proof clamping of the head, but they are a real time consuming pain and can (will) make it impossible to get the head off with the engine in the car most of the time. Aside from that they are just about never needed on a street car.

One of the main things needed for a a good head gasket seal, or any seal for that matter, is flat, true and parallel surfaces. If they are right a good gasket and stock bolts will work fine on just about any engine. If they are not right, studs and even special gaskets might not fix it.

It also helps to chamfer all the holes slightly with a 45 degree counter sink.

You can probably have your block decked for less than head studs cost anyway.

So when degreeing the cam you are potentially not lining up the crank and cam timing marks? Is this done simply by offsetting the cam or crank sprocket one or two (or however many is required) from its regular location on the timing chain?

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Stephan Nelle

Thats pretty expensive to have done right? I want this done to my drag engine...

I just read Crane Cams' article on degreeing cams. Pretty good and informative. Now I'm not so in the dark.
What's the best/easiest/most common way, if needed, to adjust the cam timing on the slant?

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Stephan Nelle

I find the easiest way is to drill the cam gear dowel hole, and use an offset bushing. I do this on all my engines, during assy, even if they degree in "right on". That makes it easier to change timing after the engine is in the car and running.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

A few hundred bucks, if I recall. Personally, I'll never build an engine without having it align-honed. It seems like a no-brainer to me. If you're going to build a short-block, do it right. Cut corners on the cylinder head if you have to — you can replace/modify it easier than pulling the whole engine. Just my $.02.

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vm