I pulled the head off my 225 yesterday to get it milled. Took it to the local shop who is world renowned for their prowess with Mopar engines (legend has it, [u]their[/u] legend). Anyhow, they never asked how much I wanted taken off, so finally I asked them how much they were going to take off. They said the head would stand no more than .020 TOPS, and the valve train was not adjustable on those engines anyway, so it was impossible to do any more than true the head.

So, I lugged my head back to my truck, and headed to the local "general" machine shop, and got essentially the same story.

So, apparently, all of you who have milled .100 off your heads and adjusted the valves accordingly should be made aware that you cannot mill the head and you cannot adjust the valves.

You can mill a hydraulic lifter SL6 head more then .020 but you have to spend more time shortening the valve stems, shimming the rocker shaft or buying shorter pushrods in order to correctly reset the hydraulic lifter pre-loads.
DD

if i had a 1$ for everytime somebody in the know of machine work , told me i couldn`t do what i asked of them, i have a really fast slantsix now and not a headache?

Well, I'm at the ripe old age of 20 and the more I learn about everything the more I learn Dad was right and I know very little in this world. It's true, back when I played with small blocks I would've never dreamed of shaving .1 off a head. Gary my mentor, said I was loco for wanting to do that, he knew why, put he said custom pistons were the answer (which if were availble, would still be my answer). However, I think it's been a proven performance enhancer, the biggest reason was the slant was an aluminum designed engine, so to compensate for the density the components are beefy. The hydralic series might be a little more difficult, but the adjustable valve trains are often remedied by pushrod lengths. So, if your nervous don't forget you can meet in the middle with a shave of the block and head, or get rid of those lame hyradlic set-up (jj). All in all good luck with your build.

Yeah, my last head milling job (make it 50cc and 1cc = .0066" I says) ended up being .080" as the chambers started at 62cc. The machinist didn't trust what I told him and took the head off the mill at least once to check the chamber size. He called me about how much he had to take off and I told him "It's fine, it's not a Chevy." I wonder what he'll say if I take him the block and tell him to take off .100"?

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Joshua

all i tell those non believer now is ,i will be racing it so there is no warranty just do it like i asked

[quote="runvs_826"]Well, I'm at the ripe old age of 20 and the more I learn about everything the more I learn Dad was right and I know very little in this world. It's true, back when I played with small blocks I would've never dreamed of shaving .1 off a head. Gary my mentor, said I was loco for wanting to do that, he knew why, put he said custom pistons were the answer (which if were availble, would still be my answer). However, I think it's been a proven performance enhancer, the biggest reason was the slant was an aluminum designed engine, so to compensate for the density the components are beefy. The hydralic series might be a little more difficult, but the adjustable valve trains are often remedied by pushrod lengths. So, if your nervous don't forget you can meet in the middle with a shave of the block and head, or get rid of those lame hyradlic set-up (jj). All in all good luck with your build.[/quote]

Mine is just a plain ol' mechanical lifter, nothin' more exotic than what everybody else got in 1973. You'd think these things were fragile or something. What miffed me was the total indifference/ignorance of the local Mopar "knowitalls".

Mopar "Knowitalls" come in many different "flavors", most of them "taste" like V-8, either the small block, big block or Hemi kind.

In general, most machinests that work on "V" engines try to keep head milling to a minimum because if they mill-off a lot of material, they have to do some "math" and figure-out how much to machine off the mating intake manifold so it will seal correctly.
DD