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 Post subject: auto shift cable
PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:37 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 5:24 pm
Posts: 376
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Car Model:
The cable that runs from my shifter on the column down to the tranny linkage seems to be stretched. It takes a bit to wiggle the shifter enough to get the tranny into gear. Examples: park, reverse, park, reverse, neutral, park, reverse.. aha, it finally fell into reverse! and having to shift from P or R to 2, then back over to D to get it into D.. simply going from P or R to D puts it in neutral, then 2. The indicator has its own opinion on where the gears are it's indicating (I learned very fast which spot means where).
Tried to readjust the cable per FSM, and it seemed to hold for about 5 minutes, then went back into its previously established patterns.
So, is there any way to replace the cable? Do I run the risk of damaging anything if I don't replace it? It doesn't seem to have gotten any worse in the 2 years I've had the car, but I don't want to run the risk of damaging other components if I don't have to. Likewise, I'd rather not saddle myself with a really irritating repair if I don't have to.
Tips? Tricks? Advice?
Thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 9:19 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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Have you tried adjusting the cable per the FSM?

The cables (there are 2 of them) can be replaces but finding a new replacement is getting hard.

As long as the cable is not binding ore leaking fluid, the mis-adjustment will not hurt anything.
DD


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 Post subject: Re: auto shift cable
PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 10:07 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Philadelphia, PA
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Quote:
Have you tried adjusting the cable per the FSM?
Quote:
Tried to readjust the cable per FSM, and it seemed to hold for about 5 minutes, then went back into its previously established patterns.
:D
Thanks for the information. I've been worried that letting it be would end up damaging something, so that's a relief to know. I'll keep an eye out for any binding, and where should I look for fluid leakage? from the area where the cable goes into the transmission?

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<i>D'Artagnan</i>
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 9:44 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
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Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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These cables can leak at the trans and along the housing if the cable has been damaged. If you do not have ATF on the ground, then you should be OK.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 7:26 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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The adjustment isn't too difficult; follow the FSM procedure. It's basically a question of getting the cable itself adjusted properly via the threaded flange wheel where the cable connects to the transmission, then adjusting the detent plate under the rubber boot at the base of the steering column, which is mounted with slotted holes and determines the locations of the "click stops" for each of the gear positions at the column shifter/indicator. The idea is to synchronise the detents at the top of the system (detent plate) with the detents at the bottom of the system (rooster comb and manual valve in the transmission's valve body) so that when the pointer says "N", the manual valve is indeed in the "N" position. D=D, R=R, 2=2, 1=1. As Doc says, there are two cables. One is the shift cable, and the other is the park cable.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 9:53 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 5:24 pm
Posts: 376
Location: Philadelphia, PA
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Thanks Dan. I know how to do the adjustment, like I mentioned in my first post, I had adjusted the cable to see if that fixed the problem, and it did for a few minutes then the cable slipped back out of adjustment again.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 5:06 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
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I don't know this car, but the guys who do, maybe you could think about what might be wrong that the adjustment is not staying once she gets it working. Is there a lock screw, or nut that might be stripped, or worn? Is there a replacement available maybe for whatever locks the adjustment? Would locktite maybe nld the adjustment. Stephanie, can you see what is slipping out of adjustment? Do you see wear marks of some kind on things that indicate slipping and moving where it should not be moving and wearing?

Sam

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 9:01 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2005 6:38 pm
Posts: 184
Location: Seattle
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Sam reminded me of a similar problem on my 63 Val. The set-screw for the shift cable had stipped out the threads in the aluminum case. It would hold the proper adjustment for a little while and then work its way out. I believe that the fix was a slightly larger self-tapping set-screw. Never had the problem again. Hope that helps.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 11:58 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 5:24 pm
Posts: 376
Location: Philadelphia, PA
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Sam, I didn't notice any wear marks, but I will take a closer look once I get my car up on stands again, since I did the adjustment a few months ago and honestly didn't look too particularly hard for wear indicators - I was hoping the adjustment would fix the problem.

Michael, I'll also keep your fix in mind if something similar has happened with my set screw.

Thanks for the ideas!! Hopefully next weekend I'll be able to poke around for discoveries and I'll update if I find anything.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 12:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24803
Location: North America
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Not to press the point, but did you do the adjustment at both ends of the cable...?

Oh, and because I forgot to include it with the last post, info on repairing leaking cable jackets is here.

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