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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 1:19 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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That said, if you're looking for an O.D. version of the A-833 for behind your slant and it's going in an early Valiant, don't get married to an F-body setup.

You can use any Hurst shifter body from any '75-'86 O.D. A-833- truck, van , A- or F-body- doesn't matter. You will need the A-body shifter rods (F-body might work) to clear your crossmember, though.
Holy freaking Toledo!

Well, you can't measure until you get the transmission. I finally crawled under and measured. The cross member won't be in the way but the CAR will.

I'll only have to widen the tunnel (and its supporting arch) on the left side by 7 inches. The actual shifter body _starts_ almost an inch outside (to the left of) the tunnel and is 4 inches or so thick, inlcuding mount and linkage attachments. The actual body of the shifter starts about 2.5 inches off the cone. Strange! The Volare tunnel must be humongous if this came out of it. A symmetrical tunnel for what I'm looking at would be 15 inches wide. No doubt it is not symmetrical.

I'm wondering if I bought a rip-off. Or maybe the transmission hung very low in the Volare and a little crosswise?

With a little work I could move the shifter body about 1.5 inches closer to the cone. Why on earth would they stand it out so far? The linkage itself stands out a full 6 inches from the cone.

I don't know what a set of older linkages must look like that would propose getting through within the tunnel, especially with 2.5 inches of standoff in the shifter. Of course I've cussed Chrysler engineering before.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 2:56 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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You might also try posting at http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ , too, and ask what others have done. I think there are a few early Valiant 4-speed swappers over there.
No need to post. There are a LOT of threads on 4 speed stuff and lots of pictures. The pictures say it all. That's a great site.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:14 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2008 8:58 pm
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Well, you can't measure until you get the transmission. I finally crawled under and measured. The cross member won't be in the way but the CAR will.

I'll only have to widen the tunnel (and its supporting arch) on the left side by 7 inches. The actual shifter body _starts_ almost an inch outside (to the left of) the tunnel and is 4 inches or so thick, inlcuding mount and linkage attachments. The actual body of the shifter starts about 2.5 inches off the cone. Strange! The Volare tunnel must be humongous if this came out of it. A symmetrical tunnel for what I'm looking at would be 15 inches wide. No doubt it is not symmetrical.

I'm wondering if I bought a rip-off. Or maybe the transmission hung very low in the Volare and a little crosswise?

With a little work I could move the shifter body about 1.5 inches closer to the cone. Why on earth would they stand it out so far? The linkage itself stands out a full 6 inches from the cone.

I don't know what a set of older linkages must look like that would propose getting through within the tunnel, especially with 2.5 inches of standoff in the shifter. Of course I've cussed Chrysler engineering before.

Thanks
The shifter mount you pictured earlier in this thread is typical of most A-833 and Hurst shifter setups.

A floor hump is necessary in all Mopars when using a floor mounted manual shifter- no getting around that.

What year/model A-body is this going in, again? I think the early A-body floor hump goes back to '67. The folks over at FABO will be able to tell you more.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:16 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

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That said, if you're looking for an O.D. version of the A-833 for behind your slant and it's going in an early Valiant, don't get married to an F-body setup. If I were in your shoes, I would look for an A-body 4-speed Hurst shifter stick.
I'm not sure exactly what you're saying here. I have a '76 Volare A833 OD now with the shifter I pictured. I guess that's F body. But maybe you're talking about the stick itself.
F-body = '76-'80 Dodge Aspen & Plymouth Volare models.


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 Post subject: 66...
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 5:44 am 
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I think the early A-body floor hump goes back to '67.
Nope. 1966 for the early-A's.... 67-76 are the 'wide body' A's.... and the F-body tranny, shift, linkage, bell, etc... from 1976-1980 will fit directly into the 67-76 A-bodies... but the 'hump' is specific to the 'car' (63-66 for the early hump, 67-76 for the late hump)

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject: Re: 66...
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 6:03 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

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I think the early A-body floor hump goes back to '67.
Nope. 1966 for the early-A's.... 67-76 are the 'wide body' A's.... and the F-body tranny, shift, linkage, bell, etc... from 1976-1980 will fit directly into the 67-76 A-bodies... but the 'hump' is specific to the 'car' (63-66 for the early hump, 67-76 for the late hump)

-D.Idiot
I should've specified that reproduction A-body floor humps go bak to '67, so if your A-body is earlier, you'll need to ind a donor car from which to rob the hump.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 11:56 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Quote:

The shifter mount you pictured earlier in this thread is typical of most A-833 and Hurst shifter setups.

A floor hump is necessary in all Mopars when using a floor mounted manual shifter- no getting around that.

What year/model A-body is this going in, again? I think the early A-body floor hump goes back to '67. The folks over at FABO will be able to tell you more.
It's a 1965 Valiant.

I knew it would take some hump work, but not as much as it first appeared on measuring. The pictures on the other forum showed some details I had no way of knowing. Apparently the shifter misses the arch support by less than half an inch, fore and aft (maybe the arch is even cut back some) and it sticks out enough so it will clear to the left of it. It all scrunches close together so half the linkage runs to the left of the arch under a hump addition that doesn't look too huge.

Image

It looks a whole lot better in the picture than in my mind! Altho it looks like the trans isn't actually in the middle of the tunnel. We'll see how it turns out.

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: 66...
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 12:10 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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I think the early A-body floor hump goes back to '67.
Nope. 1966 for the early-A's.... 67-76 are the 'wide body' A's.... and the F-body tranny, shift, linkage, bell, etc... from 1976-1980 will fit directly into the 67-76 A-bodies... but the 'hump' is specific to the 'car' (63-66 for the early hump, 67-76 for the late hump)

-D.Idiot
I should've specified that reproduction A-body floor humps go bak to '67, so if your A-body is earlier, you'll need to ind a donor car from which to rob the hump.
Finding donor cars around here is like finding original copies of the declaration of independence. I'm seriously thinking about getting one of those hammer things motor cycle shops use to make custom gas tanks. Harbor freight has one for a pretty good price. For that matter, I could make one easily enough.

But... Anybody got a spare hump??

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 5:03 am 
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Turbo EFI
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I wonder if the 67-76 repop humps could be modded to work?

Or does someone repop the early ones?

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto :-( Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:31 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Do you ever get into Murfreesboro?

BTW, have you ever gone out to Pull-A-Part?

Thanks
Mboro? 90 miles from me. I go there sometimes. I went for a cruise in a few months ago.

Pull a part is a place I need to stay out of! I got a 360 from there, carbs, headers for my 360.

Lots of vans there. Never can find a grill for my truck!

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto :-( Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 9:54 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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I wonder if the 67-76 repop humps could be modded to work?

Or does someone repop the early ones?
I checked on Layson's, but I couldn't really say. Laysons is so weird to get around I never know if they don't have it or I just can't find it.

It told me repeatedly that they don't have patch panels for quarter panels. Believe me, when I found them I bookmarked the site.

Of course one could always download their 88 mb catalog.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 10:41 am 
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Turbo EFI
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I got mine from Dante's. Fast service.

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto :-( Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 8:14 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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I got mine from Dante's. Fast service.
Looks like they have nothing earlier than 1967.

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:12 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

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I have a 66 valiant that I would be willing to cut the hump out of, I am going to start parting the car out in the next few weeks. I will post parts/pictures here before going to E-Bay. It was a complete running car before I removed the head that I was going to use on tha Dart but changed my mind.Tell me how much of the tunnel you need cut, length, width, starting where on the hump. You can e-mail me @ hemitym@ocsnet.net
Wayne

_________________
63 Dart Convert. 39 Plymouth Hotrod Hemi, Cushman scooters,


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 7:43 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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I have a 66 valiant that I would be willing to cut the hump out of, I am going to start parting the car out in the next few weeks. I will post parts/pictures here before going to E-Bay. It was a complete running car before I removed the head that I was going to use on tha Dart but changed my mind.Tell me how much of the tunnel you need cut, length, width, starting where on the hump. You can e-mail me @ hemitym@ocsnet.net
Wayne
Here's a wider view of the picture I emailed you.

Image

Thanks


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