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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 12:36 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 9:20 am
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Location: Lyon, France
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Hi there,

I just rewired everything with the new engine in but...
I've got two wires coming out of my electronic distributor : red and black.
I, quite logically connected the black to the coil and the red to the 12V.
But it doesn't work!!! I've tested the coil : all good. The distributor doesn't commute anything judging by the ohmmeter...
the distributors has a dizzy with little spikes on it. Could it be a factory electronic ignition and that it doesn't work because it doesn't have the original box?
The engine was garanteed to work before they pulled it off and I do believe them 100%...

What do you think guys?
Thanks,

Marc


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 12:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 8:20 pm
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Location: Oxford, Georgia
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Is that a Pertronix Ignitor, or what? The colors don't sound quite right for a factory distributor, but there were factory distributors with orange and black wires.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 12:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
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Location: Black Diamond, WA
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That is an electronic distributor. The coil in the distributor should read about 300 ohms if in good shape. Those wires go the the ECU, not the coil. Do a search on this site for ECU wiring diagrams and you will see several examples of the stock ECU setup.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 12:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Yes, this is a factory electronic distributor. It doesn't connect to + and coil. It connects to the ECU, which it sounds like you don't have. I take it your car did not originally have electronic ignition. Your three options are:

1. Use the points-type distributor from the original engine. That'll get you going right now.

2. Buy an ECU (Standard-BlueStreak LX-101) and the Mopar ECU wiring harness part number P3690152 and wind up with the Mopar electronic system

3. Since you're starting with nothing but the distributor (no ECU, no wires), work from there and put in HEI.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 3:33 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 9:20 am
Posts: 208
Location: Lyon, France
Car Model:
Ok,

Thanks for your quick answers...
I was wondering, is there any european brand you can think of that used this type of hei module?
GM stuff aren't exactly the common deal here...
Since the junkyards are open today and I'd like to have my car running by monday night, I was wondering if I could arrange something with a bosch or renix or whatever module I can find...
What should I look for? Does it have to have only 4 connectors?
Thanks again,

Marc


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 5:13 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 8:29 pm
Posts: 797
Location: Raleigh, NC
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Marc,

In addition to what the fellows told you about the wires, while you are in the dizzy use a flat brass gage to check the gap between the "litttle star" as you cal; it and the pickup. I have books with two different settings but only a thousandth apart. I set mine at .008.

rock
'64d100


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 5:22 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 9:20 am
Posts: 208
Location: Lyon, France
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Thanks rock, will do.

What about something like that?
Image
or like that?
Image

I have no idea the wiring though...


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 6:14 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 9:20 am
Posts: 208
Location: Lyon, France
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Ok,

From what I understood, I have to know wether it's a hall effect type ignition or not...
The engine is circa 1972.
I've found this as well : Image
It says hall effect on it...


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 7:01 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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I think you can use that Bimmer module... it'll be more common on
your side of the earth.
6 prongs are easy to wire up:

1 should be key on Bat +
2 will be Ground/Batt -
1 will be for the coil
and the last will be 2 wires to go to the distributor....


I actually use one of these from an 80's BMW 318 to convert my 'points only' dizzy recurve machine to being able to read EI distributors...

If you used a VW module it would be the same as above, but the 7th wire is the tach signal wire if you decided to run a tachometer...

Let us know how it works!

-D.Idiot


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:23 am 
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In case you discover it matters, the slant-6 electronic distributor is not a hall-effect type, it's a magnetic-induction type.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:55 am 
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There is a Bosch ignition on early L-Jetronic cars that used a VR sensor and an external module. The only example I can think of off the top of my head is the Fiat X1/9 or the Nissan 280Z, but I get the impression there were a lot of others. The key identifier is two wires from the distributor.

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 Post subject: Imports...
PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 8:28 pm 
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
The key identifier is two wires from the distributor.
It's hard to tell on these, I looked at lots of diagrams, and it's interesting to see that in the mid-70's up to about 1995, the Bosch 227.100.100 is like
Europe's version of the HEI module... you can find it in almost anything from VW's, Audi's, BMW's... the module isn't too hard to figure out once you have the prong plug out... #1 is Batt pos/Key on power, #2 and #3 and ground/Batt neg., #4 goes to the coil, #5 and #6 both are leads for the distributor , this module looks like it spanned hall effect, and maybe some other style of proprietary EI distributors...

I would be curious to see if it works... it works on my machine... it can't be any different than my buddy using a mazda ECU to run a 318 Dodge Dippy...

-D.Idiot


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 2:20 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 9:20 am
Posts: 208
Location: Lyon, France
Car Model:
Hello guys,

Thanks for all your info.

I went yesterday to the breaker and I asked for some GM ignition module and I described the banana shape it had. Surprinsigly, the guy what I was talking about and he quickly came back with... an opel (thus GM) ignition module. It doesn't really have a banana shape but he said it would work just the same (which I believe) and he knew the exact one I was talking about but he didn't have it...

But well, now I have a module with 4 connectors and I don't know what each one goes to... except the 12V of course...

I'll get back with some pictures, it will be easier unless one of you comes with a special Opel schematic about ignition module...

Thanks,

Marc


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:33 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 9:20 am
Posts: 208
Location: Lyon, France
Car Model:
It works!!!

Do you think I should, in the future, swap to a GM HEI module?
Mine seems to work well but it seems also to get warm very fast (haven't put any aluminium plate though)...

Thanks to all of you!! I had a big grin yesterday when it fired first time!

Marc


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 9:12 am 
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Hoorah! The module needs adequate heat-sinking. How and where have you mounted it?

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