yes i agree, if your that close the 2 screws in the dist hold down plate should give you enough timing adj. moving the dist 1 tooth will put you way out!

Pink...

I got tired of runnning up against the holddown plate limitation when all I needed was maybe a degree or two more.

I had a collection of the adjustment plates so I cut the block end off one and brazed it to another plate. Then I used die grinder to create a continuous slot for the block holddown bolt. Well, as soon as I bolted it down I found out there is a ridge on the block that limited my new plate travel. So after a few trials I got it right...about 5/8 inch added to top of old plate was just right. Then, I found all I really needed was the top of the old plate slot cut out all the way, because I never got the bolt past the edge of the old plate. Still having the extra width let me mark the plate with a felt tip pen when tuning after I have pulled the dizzy for more springs, etc. I can make a note any time that one mark represents "X" dgerees, 2 marks represents "Y" more degrees. Much quicker setup if you pull as many dizzies as I was doing then. The Dizzy end is bolted all the way to end of its slot and left alone this way. Understand I am not marking the plate with a cold chisel because the relation of any mark would be relative to where the dizzy slid in. It isn't set like TDC on #1 puts your damper mark on the same place....the dizzy is more relative because of your teeth.

rock
'64d100

Casey,

That's what I did, just slot the plate on both ends to get more throw. I can run it up to 22 degrees initial if I want to now. However, I keep it at 16 degrees for my build. It is pretty responsive and has plenty of spunk.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I've everything adjusted pretty well- initital timing is at 12* where it seems happy, but the mechanical advance doesn't seem to add a whole lot to the total amount- maybe that's correct. though. I disassembled the dist and made sure the weights, governor and springs all move freely (which they do), and lubed 'em up and reassembled it all.

The vac advance needs some fine tuning, but it's close. I have it set at two turns out, but I would like it to kick in a bit earlier. Do I need to turn it in or out to get the advance to kick in earlier? I think in would be correct...

Casey,

For earlier engagement on the pod, it should be screwed all they way in. Reference the fourth page of Doc's manual I sent you.

You must have some heavy springs on those weights..........you should get at least another 10 degrees of mechanical advance at 2500 rpm. Can you take a picture of them? or describe them? You should at least see 22 degrees total if not more.

Example: with your 12 degrees initial plus another 10 mechanical would give you 22 degrees. A slant likes to run at 30 to 32 degrees.

The vacuum advance is on top of that, so with the VC 208 it should give you another 22 degrees about 52 degrees total.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Here is my table of VC208 data:

Number of turns "unscrewed" ……………in. Hg over which advance is applied

……….0…………………………………………………… 1 - 5
……….1 ……………………………………………………1 - 7
……….2…………………………………………………... 3 - 7
……….3………………………………………………….. 4 - 11
……….4………………………………………………….. 5 - 11
……….5 …………………………………………………5.5 - 12
……….6 …………………………………………………..7 - 13

See how unscrewing it makes it come in later, but the base range is nearly constant?

As Ted says and I KNOW DI has written about, it looks like spring time to me. Try two light springs now and see if the curve goes straight up, and if so, change the primary to a heavier one...primary being the usual "light" spring. Hey, all I know I learned here then by doing it.

rock
'64d100

The light spring appeared to be white in color, while the heavier spring had the elongated loop at one end (the end attached to the weight).

I pulled apart my 360 distributor just too check out the springs, but both springs look pretty heavy- not one light and one heavy like on the slant.

Casey,

Can you map how much mechanical is kicking in at what rpm?

Measure it at 2000, 2500 and 3000 rpm?

You need to do this with the pod unplugged from the carb.

You could temporary set the timing back to zero so you can use the damper scale if you don't have a dial back timing light.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I'm going to try and hook up my tach temporarily, and see if that works. Then I can do some more checking.

Pink

Ihave found it real usefuil to have an old sears dwell tach hooked up for tach under the hood beside my under hood vac gages. It saves having to buy a tach to start with. I had one from the old says but I bought another from ebay for $8 new in box.

Oh that white spring is likely the stock one, I have seen them with a tad of purple tossed in in some NOS EI dizzies I got to recurve. Remember if you go lighter on both your advance will come in all at once and early.

rock
64d100-

My Dad had an old Sears engine analyzer he was going to toss out, so I'll be getting and using that for tuning purposes. It has a tach function, so that will help some. I never thought I'd have a use for it, but that should be a lesson to me.

I got the old Sears auto analyzer (with tach function), but I'm not sure if it's working correctly. The battery leads I have connected to the battery. the grenn wire is connected to the negative post on the ignition coil, but where am I supposed to connect the black wire from the analyzer? It's got a small plate attached to it that doesn't look familiar...no instructions came with it.

Also, I'm fine tuning the carb and timing and finally have a vacuum gauge. The carb is working great (Carter BBD on a Super Six) except for when I push the clutch in- the engine idles too high (say 1500+ rpm) for a few seconds (10-15), then finally drops to the correct idle speed. It feels like the metering rods are not fully seated and fuel is still being set into the venturis. I think I need to tighten down (turn clockwise) the alllen head screw between the metering rods, correct?

Also, what should the vacuum gauge read (when warmed up and idling at the proper speed) and plugged into the vacuum advance port on the RH side of the carb? I can feel vacuum at idle and I thought there shouldn't be any vacuum at idle.

What rpm are you idling at?
If your at 550 to 600 rpm, no you shouldn't be getting any vacuum at the port.
and how many inches of vacuum are you seeing?

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I won't know the exact idle rpm unitl I get the analyzer's tach working...

At what rpm should I start seeing vaccum at the vac advance port?

Approximately 800 rpm.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG