Anyone used either? Both? Any preferences? Ive used POR since its available locally; so far it seems to hold up well; Being that RB has to be ordered out puts it at a disadvantage; but at the other site I visit there are guys that swear by RB; I wish someone close had some, so I could try it side by side for myself, to compare. I gotta coat the inside of my Wrangler frame before this winter for sure;I have a couple of $2 garage sale hand-pump weed sprayers, that I can throw away when i finish with them, that will hopefully work for that job. Anyone else have an idea to spray the inside of a tube frame?? (I cut a hole in the sides and got in there with a SHop vac, the built up scale was so high in the rails)
I know that RB has an "automotive" formula that is supposed to be thinner but with more solids than their normal stuff, I'm thinking that might give me better coverage. Their site says NOT to thin it out at all, spray as it comes out of the can... I hope to achieve full coverage within the rails. Maybe multiple coats.
and having that Volare body, bare in the garage with lotsa exposed bare metal, I can definitely use at least a gallon. I want to do the whole underside of that car+cowl and complete eng compartment, and the whole inside of the trunk, floorpans, inside the rockers (that I am replacing) etc; basically everything but the outer sheetmetal that is seen by all. I've done all the K frame, control arms, sway bars, leaf springs, iso mount parts, battery tray, hood hinges, rear end housing, backing plates, and more, in POR 15 (have yet to do the torsion bars, they are still bare rusty metal in the rafters) but of what Ive done I've sand blasted it all andput SEVERAL costs on when its been freshly bare metal. Got some surface rust (basically rubs off with my fingers) on the bare engine compartment;
is it worth ordering out the RB or should I go with whats locally available?

I DO have a POR 15, engine painting "kit" in Chrysler Blue that I bought a while back to do the engine for this car with. Ive usually used PlastiKote or DupliColor in the past, thought I'd try their stuff; that "kit" cost $53.

I've been very pleased with POR-15 products, but can't compare as I've never tried the other. The Tidewater Mopar Club has used it on many of our giveaway cars.

I wrote up my experience with POR-15 some time ago in http://www.tidewatermoparclub.com/TECH/tech5.html

Noted car restorer Matt Joseph did a very comprehensive long-term (multiple year) and carefully-controlled test of anti-rust coatings and treatments in the late '80s and early '90s. The two products that came through with "excellent" ratings were POR-15 and Corroless. He did not, however, test Rust Bullet.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I've had better luck with POR than I have had with Eastwood's products, i'm now using Chassis Saver on a frame and it seems to be the same as POR in viscosity and smell. Never used Rust Bullet, but I am sure it is just as good of a product.
It really seems that prep is the most important thing to get any of these products to work. So by spraying inside your frame rails without using a degreaser, metal prep, and finally the coating without knowing the mil. thickness I really don't think it matters which one you use.

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

I have a pump sprayer here you know the kind you put weed killer in to spray the cracks in your sidewalk; $2 at a garage sale, so I can throw it away when I'm done; I am hoping to put more than 1 coat in there, but don't have any other ideas on how to do this; I would not think the inside of the rails, would need to be degreased. (this thing don't have any oil leaks and such) but I did have to take a 3" cutoff wheel and put a hole in the side of the rails, to get a Shop Vac hose in there, and clean out all the scale as the inside of the rails were PACKED like 1/2 full on the drivers side rail, 1/3 full passenger side; I beat on the outside of the frame with a ball peen to bust loose the crap thatwas hanging in the corners; I am surprised there are no holes in the bottom for moisture to drain; and YES I welded in the places where I cut open for shop vac access already.

Who makes Rust Bullet?

Anyway, awhile back the magazine 'Auto Restorer' (they don't have any adds, so there's no bias) did a test comparing POR15s black rust encapsulator to Eastwoods equivalent. (painted on some pieces of metal, then torture tests).

Eastwood did slightly better......

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I can order RB right from the company, dont have to go thru Eastwood. but I can get POR 7 miles from here any time I need it. Even if they do not have all the "accessory" products they can get them next-day.

Ya, whatever. Larry Lyles damn near works for Eastwood. If you follow his restorations carefully you will see he uses alot of EW products.

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

I used Rust Bullet on my frame this past summer. Did a base coat with their Automotive formula (silver), then topped it with their Black Shell (black).

Used foam brushes and rollers, went on real easy.

The Automotive formula is a nice metallic silver color...I even hesitated covering it with the Black Shell. The Black is maybe an 80% gloss black.

Dries hard as a rock. Bolted a few items to the frame after it had dried a week or so, and the washers scuffed the surface of the paint but it didn't gouge or pinch off.

Can't vouch for longevity, yet. Seems like the biggest complaint that people have with any of these products, Por15, RB, Eastwood, etc., is that the paint either flakes off after a couple of years, or the rust comes back through.

Personally, I am skeptical of anything that you "just paint over the rust", so I'll be real surprised if the rust doesn't pop up eventually. As far as the flaking issue that some people have had, my guess is that the surface wasn't cleaned properly. I used a heavy duty cleaner, hit the rust with an abrasive brush, then wiped it all down with lacquer thinner.

Get plenty of foam brushes...a couple different widths, too. I ended up using about 2 dozen brushes altogether along with maybe six foam rollers. Once the paint starts to set up in the brush, its useless.

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Bill

'60 Dodge Dart Pioneer

Vivian

Yeah; I had used a bunch of POR on such parts as the K frame, control arms, leaf springs, battery tray, etc; but none of its been exposed to the "elements" yet; I know that all the klinking and clanging in storage and the stuff dont even have a scuff mark; I did the back bumper of my old 97 Ram with it after sandblasting it and the "back side" held up GREAT; the outside that you see had a couple spots about 2" long and a little wider than a scratch that had slight surface rust showng; I went over it with some Krylon or Rustoleum rattle can because of the "chalking" from UV exposure; they have other products not effected by UV but they recommend that it 1st be coated with the stuff that does get chalky looking from UV. I just wanted to try some of the other stuff this time; As far as appearnce; the POR black, both the UV sensitive kind and the Chassis black spreads out nice even if brushed on; no brush marks. The stirling silver (thats how THEY spell it) you see every brush mark; if you want to use that and have a nice appearance you gotta spray it. they claim the silver is better as a "filler" paint for pits, etc but the black in my experience does a great job of that itself.

That is what my concern about using this stuff inside a frame rail. How in the world can it be prepped properly???

Here is my experience with EW's system
http://forum.eastwoodco.com/showthread.php?t=8356
They blamed my failure on salt contamination. They said I should have cleaned it with distilled water first. Hmmm, didn't see that in the instructions

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

We used POR15 here in the shop and love it.

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www.gprsmopars.com

I used RB on my floorboards and a few other places. I chose RB over POR because of the UV resistance difference. Most of it is under Herculiner truck bed liner, so it isn't exposed to any abuse, but have some on the underside of the car, etc. as well. It has been over a year, and I have no rust reappearing yet, nor have I had problems with peeling, chipping, or chalking/fading.

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