Hi all, I'm new to the forum and new to slant 6's. I just purchased a 62 Valiant, 225, push button auto, 4 door. It came with a cracked exhaust manifold. I've read your technical info on exhausts already. Now, it also came with another intake/exhaust manifold, still bolted together. With a straight edge across the surfaces the worst gap was .025. Should I take these apart and use my existing intake or just take the carb off and install them as a unit? What I really want to do is visit Cliffords site and order a split manifold for dual exhaust and go with either a two barrel or two one barrels, but, social security just doesn't go as far as it used to. It's going to be a long process and just a ton of questions for you guys.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Joe

Joe,

If you are gonna replace any manifold, you will be replacing teh head to manifold gasket, or should be. If you are gonna replace that gasket, do it right adn get the "good gaskets" you will find on this forum. Take apart the two manifolds and put in the good gasket between the two manifolds. Whwen putting the manifolds back together use stainless steel bolts, and when attaching to the head, resist the urge to be Charles Atlas, just tighten to torque. I also put a dab of anti sieze grease stuff under each washer. I also use stainless allen head studs and brass nuts, but that is kinda in the range of over kill. If you don't change that center gasket between the manifolds, the way life goes that gasket will burn out a week later. The slant gods really do have a sense of humor.

rock
'64d100

Forget Clifford — they have a tempting catalogue, but you can in almost every case go elsewhere and get better parts, faster, for less money, and with better customer service and support. The real source for the split manifolds is this board's own Doug Dutra; see the Dutra Duals page. New stock-type exhaust manifolds (Chinese-made but of acceptable quality nevertheless) can be had on eBay for around $100, or there may still be a NOS original Chrysler unit on offer in the "Parts For Sale" section of this board.

When you measure 0.025", is that across only the exhaust runner faces, or is that comparing exhausts and adjacent intakes? Can you show us a picture of the extra intake/exhaust manifold set that came with the car, so we can ID what year range it's from and give advice on which set to use?

Whichever manifolds you wind up using, it is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions.

(And since you're new — welcome on the board! — you may want to browse the tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread, and the fuel line mod).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks, I'm not smart enough yet to post pictures. I'll work on that. The manifold on the car I believe is original. The newer one has the number 2899959 next to the chrysler image. On the other side is 06188. I don't know if that helps or not. Good tip on the stainless bolts/studs. I' got a NAPA gasket with the manifold that I wasn't sure about, I'll look around the site for a gasket. The 0.25 measurement was over the entire manifolds, intake and exhaust. That's why I was kind of afraid to take it all apart. I'll get out the penetrating oil and see what happens.
Thanks.
Joe

There's a NOS exhaust manifold that'll work well on your '62, right over here, though that newer one you mention already having should work fine for you if it's not warped and if the manifold heat control "heat riser" valve can be freed up to work correctly. No need to hunt around for the good gasket; the link I put up above takes you to a thread that contains the link to buy the good gaskets.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I've ordered a gasket through Remflex. I took the two manifolds apart and got lucky, I only broke one bolt, the inside one was rusted pretty badly. I'm working on getting the heat riser working. a lot of penatrating oil and gentle hammer taps. I'll be looking for stainless bolts next while I'm waiting for the new gasket to show up. I like the idea of allen head studs and brass washers. you're not the only anal one out there. I'll have to see what my local hardware store has or order them on line. It's starting to turn into a project. Good thing I've got all winter.
Thanks. Please keep up the good work.
Joe

I'm not sure Remflex can supply the good gasket for the intake-to-exhaust "hotbox" junction (anyone know for sure?). That's an important one; the stamped-metal gasket never seals properly in this location.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

After giving up trying to get the metal heat box gasket to seal, I contacted a company in dallas that provides bulk material to gasket manufacturers. The engineer I talked to recommended a thick, white material that he said was the best product you can get for header gaskets.

I bought a small piece and used the metal gasket for a template to make my own. It's been on the car for about three years with no problems.

Point is, you can get the hotbox gasket, accurately die-cut from the thick graphite composite material, from the linked outfit in Australia.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Remfles supplies the gasket with their intake/exhaust manifold kit. I still have mine. Didn't use it because my manifolds where nice and sealed...with the thin metal one from felpro. I used some sand paper on a small piece of wood and went across the mating surfaces, cleaning up the rust on the exhaust manifold and any pits or burrs on both. Then used a liberal amount of copper RTV to aid sealing it up. It can be done.

SlantSixDan, if you can EMail me direct at colbyhill@wildblue.net I can send you pictures of the manifold if that would help.
The metal gasket, it I've got it right, I've got to cut the center section out for it to work correctly on my 62?
The RTV sounds like a good idea to me. Right now I've got to watch my spending. The Bank Fund for the Toy Box has dried up.
Thanks.
Joe