Rock?

It is not the engine, it is the trans.

A slant six would usually have a 904 transmission. A big block would have a 727 trans. The 727 trans is longer then the 904 trans.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

It appears that the measurement from the center of the rear joint to the end of the tranny cone is 55.5 inches.

What now?

So the 727 is about 36 inches long - from the bell to the end of the tail cone. That IS a pretty good sized one.

Thanks

Ross,

I don't often read through all the threads so just now saw you measured your distance and asked: "What now?"

Chaarlie is one of the guys on here who has been inside so many slants he probably has mopar bolts falling out of his underwear as he walks around, so no surprise he told you 'zactly how 'tis....727's are longer and bigger than 904's. When I pulled the 833OD I had in and replaced it with a 727 MADE WITH THE SLANT SIX BELL the driveshaft for the 833 went back on that 727 exactly, which I interpret as showing the slant six bell 727 and slant six bell 833 are pretty close to the same length. I do not know if the slant bell 727 and the v8 bell 727 are the same length. Still, we know the slant six bell 727 and 833, at least, use the same driveshaft.

I am not a believer in making up a driveshaft ahead of time unless I KNOW I know the right length, but in answer to your "What now", you can do the old algebra thing. I think I remember you wanted an 833 driveshaft's length for your car. Knowing that the 833 and 727 used the same driveshaft in my application, to use that tidbit, next you need the exact length of either tranny, or in the case of the slant 833, the length of the 833 plus its bell. I also remember Dart270 once posted a link to a site with tranny dimensions that I used, or you can try Google.

I wrote out some thinking about how I would locate the yoke holes for the 833 in space by using geometry, but it got too complicated. The reason it is complicated is that doing the measurement while lying under the vehicle was too difficult. I did this exercise once and punted...it is just more rational to put in the tranny and then measure. It only takes a day or two to get a driveshaft made up. What I was driving at in suggesting you measure whether 25 inches or 55 was so you could get a notion whether what you have could be close to working, or not. Sounds like yours is pretty close, so I would just put in the tranny and hold on to what I had. I did measure mine and it is about 51 1/2 from hole to hole centers. I just sold the car driveshaft and my 833 and its bell and shifter so don't have the tranny to measure from now. I do have a duplicate truck shaft though, and its only difference is that it is larger diameter, about 4 inches.

This kind of stuff is why it is so much fun to do tranny swapping, though.

rock
'64d100

So basically you're saying total distance minus the tranny length wasn't really useful. Rather I need to go ahead and get the tranny in and measure it down to the 1/8 inch. Then you can find the right stuff.

Thanks

Ross,

No, it was very useful. It showed you that what you had was close to what you will need and that what you have may even be just right, unless you want to change yokes to large joints. It is always good to look ahead to what you know you will need though, like the slip on yoke, maybe a tranny rear seal/boot for the yoke, and the joints.

rock
'64d100

If you say so. I don't even know how I would measure the shaft I have against what I need since I have a trunion and flange shaft and need a ujoint and slip joint shaft.
What I do know is that I have a shaft that measures 48 inches from the center of the rear ujoint to the front weld. I started out looking for a front slip joint I could get welded onto that 48 inch shaft.

Then I thought you said you had a whole shaft with slip joint that could be sized to the length I will need once the 4 speed goes in.

Thanks

Ross,

I had a complete set of the tranny, bell, clutch, car driveshaft, ujoints, shifter and all bolts and so on needed for the conversion. I offered it a few times on the forum and someone finally took me up on the setup. So what I have left now is a few clutch sets, TOB's, bells, shifters and so on and one spare new driveshaft with yokes on it for large (7290) joints. This driveshaft is a truck one about 4 inches in diameter that of course would work on a car and have great strength. I probably have a ujointmaster slip on yoke stashed somewhere too but haven't looked in a while for those smaller parts.

So, sure I would sell the driveshaft that is left but it may be yours will work fine. There is a link I have seen several times here about the ball and trunion conversion to slip yoke and if you read it you will see the swap is nothing hard to do. Or sell the B+T and get a straightforward 833OD.

I have read this time where you have asked a few times about welding on a slip yoke. What is welded on to a driveshaft is a ujoint yoke that only extends outward from the shaft tube a few inches. That yoke is what you insert one set of ujoint arms and cups into. Then the slip on yoke goes over the other two arms and cups of the ujoint cross. So actually the slip on yoke is not welded onto the driveshaft. Look at the pic on the ebay sale of a yoke that I sent a link to.

Once you get closer to knowing 'zaclty what you need and are sure yours wont do, then you will be better able to decide what you need.

rock
'64d100

If anyone ever posts that link I'll be glad to check it out.
Sell the B&T and get an 833OD? I HAVE an 833OD. That's why I need something other than the B&T. And as I have said, the reason I'm on here trying to drum up something is that Mopar simply doesn't exist around here. There's NO chance of going out to a yard and picking up the shaft I need. None at all.
Actually I don't think I've ever talked about a slip yoke. I talk about a shaft complete with SLIP JOINT. I know there is a weld yoke, a ujoint and a slip yoke. I refer to all of these together as the slip joint as opposed to the B&T joint.

What I had hoped to get was a shaft from an 833 or 727 and either use that as is or cut off the front end of it - the slip joint with some tube - and have it welded onto the short tube I have now (after cutting off the B&T joint first, of course).

I haven't figured out why you keep saying maybe I can use the drive shaft I have. It would definitely have to be converted from B&T.

(quote)Once you get closer to knowing 'zaclty what you need and are sure yours wont do, then you will be better able to decide what you need.

rock
'64d100[/quote]

I pulled the trans up to the engine today. From the rear ujoint to the rear end of the tranny cone is 55 inches. No mine won't do. That's whay I've been talking to you. Mine is a B&T. The 833OD is splined. I have no place to get anything used to weld onto mine and prices are insane for new stuff.

But if you've sold off everything since we started talking I suppose I'll have to find something else. There have been some drive shafts on eBay, but they are all advertised with ujoint to ujoint measurements and I don't know what that would be. I suppose if I bought one of those $100 slip yokes and put on the trans I could get the ujoint to ujoint measurement with that.

I don't understand what happened to your other stuff. You said you had what I needed for probably $120. I said good, write me up a bill. Then you sold it to someone else? Why even offer it?

Thanks

Ross,

First, here is the link:

I found it by using the Search for ball and trunion in the transmission section. The thread is the third one down from July 12, 08 started by Walpolla. Chaarlie answered definitively by saying:

"This link shows converting the B&T driveshaft to a normal slip yoke, for use with the flange transmission output.
http://www.earlycuda.org/tech/ujoint.htm "

When you read the article (and, there are many more good articles if you click on "Home" at the top of the frum page, and look for "articles")
you will see why everyone has talked to you about slip yokes. I, and I guess the other guys, just assumed you had looked up this article in doing your research. So now I see the source of some of your confusion!

I keep saying you could use the shaft you have because all you need to do is cut off the tranny end and have a 7290 yoke welded onto your shaft IF your shaft seemed long enough. And, it does seem long enough so far. Then you just buy a new slip yoke for $50 and a 7290 ujoint for about $15 and press the joint into both yokes, and away you go. Any good driveline shop either has the part to weld on the shaft, or can order it. I have invoices in a pile and can look up that part number if you have trouble finding one.

Then as to why I sold the items, saying "make me up a bill" is not an acceptance of an offer. Saying, "OK I will take it, PM me about how to send money" is an acceptance. Many times here folks will see a conversation about something possibly for sale and contact the author of the thread part to see if it possible to get the item. Several times over the last year I offered a complete 833OD setup, in superb rebuilt to new condition at a steal of a price and someone wanting to get everything at once jumped on it. They asked for pics, asked if a check was ok, asked if "2 installments" was ok, and "where do I send the money?" Just "send me a bill" does not say "I want it".

I do however still have a new truck driveshaft with the ujoint yokes welded to the shaft. There is no reason the shaft wouldn't work in a car unless someone were a numbers matching person. The reason is because the shaft is about 4 inches in diameter whereas a car one is about 2 1/2 in in diameter. I have another 833OD that is newly rebuilt but has not had the sideplate put on yet. I got new brass forks and synchros for it but rather than bolting on the sideplate I was holding on for an 18 spline input shaft. Then I found that the input shaft gearing didn't match my cluster. Kinda one of those projects you put on the shelf and look around at car meets for a missing part.

rock
'64d100

That's going in the opposite direction, putting a later shaft on an old flanged tranny. This 833 doesn't have a flange, it has splines. That's why I've been looking for a slip joint to put on my shaft.
You're still talking about slip joint while the article is about a flanged transmission.
OK, I knew what I needed when I started asking for it. I can't get it used and YOU already pointed out that my shop was charging insane prices. This is nonsense.