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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2003 6:58 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 5:58 am
Posts: 429
Location: Casa Grande, AZ
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I'm reassembling the 8 3/4 I'm building for my Duster, and the threaded bearing preload (?) adjuster on the right axleshaft is giving me fits.

It's stripped out! I can pop the collar on and off of it by hand, right over the threads. What the heck can cause this? Is there any cure?

If I'm not being clear, it's the round adjuster that goes around the axleshaft, outboard of the bearing. it threads into the plate that bolts to the axle housing.

I'm tempted to put a couple of cold beads of weld on it to hold it to the plate. It's wasted anyhow, so how wrong an idea is that? I can get it pretty close to where it was originally so the endplay ought to be about the same.

Any opinions? TIA

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It's a Slant thing. Even I don't understand.

1974 Duster, EFI /6 soon to be turbo...

Get that Monkay! Get that nasty thing!!
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2003 11:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Quote:
...I'm tempted to put a couple of cold beads of weld on it to hold it to the plate. It's wasted anyhow, so how wrong an idea is that? I can get it pretty close to where it was originally so the endplay ought to be about the same.
Any opinions? TIA
The correct way to do the job is to replace the bearing and adjuster plate, all the parts are available.

If you insist on welding it down, first get the axle retainer plate as flat as possible then install the axle and push the adjuster collar in as far and as hard as you can, zero end play. Doing this will hopefully "square-up" the bearing in the race and align the adjuster to its face. "Zap" (Arch weld or MIG) the adjuster down in that position. Pull the axle back out and clean / repack the bearing with grease After a few miles, of running, some end play should develop, just like magic!
DD


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2003 7:17 am 
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Location: Casa Grande, AZ
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Thanks, double-D. I don't insist on welding it, I was just having a case of get-it-done-itis. I think what I'll do is get a set of those Green bearings to replace the adjuster. Anybody used/liked those?

Thanks kindly for the feedback.

-G

_________________
It's a Slant thing. Even I don't understand.

1974 Duster, EFI /6 soon to be turbo...

Get that Monkay! Get that nasty thing!!
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2003 9:34 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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I have a set of green bearings on my drag car, they have been there for 10 years and I have no problem(s) with them.

BFD you say, how many miles can a quarter mile racer put on a axle bearing? but wait, I Flat Tow my racecar to the track. (towbar with drive shaft removed) :shock:

Some years the car gets lot's of miles on it, at least the chassis parts see the miles.
DD


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 01, 2003 6:03 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:29 pm
Posts: 963
Location: Eustis, FL
Car Model: '68 V100, '68 V200, '79 Aspen, '84 D100
There are several users of the green bearings on street cars over at Moparchat and they swear by their durability, even during lots of hard cornering. They are real handy when the centering pins on the old Sure Grip units are missing.

Cecil


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2003 8:19 am 
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Location: Casa Grande, AZ
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I ordered my Green bearings from Manicini Racing last Saturday. Hopefully they'll get here today. Cost was $84 for the pair and included bearings, seals, retainers, and the plate.

The link to the bearing kit is Here.



EDIT: Got my bearings today! Happiness!

_________________
It's a Slant thing. Even I don't understand.

1974 Duster, EFI /6 soon to be turbo...

Get that Monkay! Get that nasty thing!!
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2003 10:32 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 5:58 am
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Location: Casa Grande, AZ
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Got the Green bearings installed. Man were those stock ones on there tight. I drilled and cracked the retainers with a chisel, but dang near busted my 12-ton press trying to get the bearings off. I did break my bearing splitter and two of my press blocks (*&^%$%^ Harbor Freight :))

Finally took it to a buddy's machine shop, and his (little) 25-ton press grunted, and popped them off. Shheeesh.

The new ones went on smoothly. What a much better and stronger design they are. Thanks to everyone that recommended them, because they definitely are the way to go.

Image

Image

_________________
It's a Slant thing. Even I don't understand.

1974 Duster, EFI /6 soon to be turbo...

Get that Monkay! Get that nasty thing!!
Image


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 Post subject: Oooo...
PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2003 1:18 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
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Location: CA
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Purdy green ;)


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2003 3:04 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1847
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
Well, he did say they were green bearings. :lol: :roll: >groan< Sometimes I don't kill myself.

Roger


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2003 9:39 am 
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Location: Casa Grande, AZ
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Quote:
Well, he did say they were green bearings. :lol: :roll: >groan< Sometimes I don't kill myself.

Roger
Hehe...well green is kinda my color, when mixed with the appropriate purple as evidenced by my web site. I didn't want to leave them bare metal to get all rusty, now, did I?

I did introduce a new color to my list of approved colors, that being the pewter I sprayed on the gear and the brake backing plates and Ubolts.

Looks good against the metallic brown, which matches the original color of the car.

_________________
It's a Slant thing. Even I don't understand.

1974 Duster, EFI /6 soon to be turbo...

Get that Monkay! Get that nasty thing!!
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