I like that design. Something like this might be functional for those of us who are
considering fabricating a manifold. A thick alloy base/flange which accepts straight
tube round stock. Six tubes welded to a common plenium is what I had in mind. The base
flange would accept a cap which holds the six tubes ( with a flaired end on the tubes).
An o-ring or silicon between the inner and outer cap would seal the tubes. The base/flange
would be aluminum, the welded tubes stainless steel, and relatively short, 8" inches max.

The thick alloy flange is easier to machine, the staight stainless tubes are relatively easy to weld and fairly light. You could evaluate different length tubes w/o completely starting over.

I don't have any money. I like to see others forge new ground.

Looks great Matt. I'd definately take one of those over having to work an intake and get a rail custom made.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

You can find those throttle bodies at: http://www.twminduction.com/Home/Home-FR.html

cool kesteb thanks for the link. forgot to login

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It is easier to REACT,
than it is to THINK!

Middy.

Had a thought about the potential heat problem. What about two separate plates, one that would bolt to the bottom holes with rectangular exhaust "spacers" coming up, and a (reverse image) plate for the intake spacers with the injectors coming down. The two plates would never actually touch.
Dan M.

I've wondered about the heat, but I don't think it will be a big issue. I'll find out once I get a setup up and running on my car, figured I'll place some thermocouples here and there and compare temps. That will give an idea of the heat soak from the exhaust. I don't remember the specifics, but I know of some ford BB application where some alum exhaust spacer is used to adapt to a more common header style. I'll have to dig around and find some info on that. The Doc had a picture at one time of a hilborn injected slant that used a plate much like my design, with intake an exhaust ports running through a common aluminum plate. The difference was the intake tubes were welded to the plate. The purpose of that plate was to raise the intake port, changing the angle of approach, to straighten out the intake path. That design, although different, would have faced the same heating issues that my desing will. So if that worked, mine should. We'll see..

If the plate is especially thick the aluminum will displace the heat very well, much better than steel. Steel might have some hot spots. I assume that a gasket will be used, the gasket will limit the heat transfer somewhat. I think this would work well.

In new Hondas the exhaust manifold is actually intregral to the head, this super heats the exhaust ports much further out with a closer mounting of the catalytic convertor, the conservation of heat leads to decreased exhaust emissions. I suppose that the heat produces more pressure which ought to help performance. The design with the plate would tend to reduce the exhaust temperatures, which might not always be a good thing. Heat is good within the limits of metalurgy and lubrication and other materials.

Original idea was to make the plate out of 1" stock, but now I'm going to make the first ones out of 3/4" stock to lower cost. Either way, not enough internal surface area for the exhaust to disapate enough heat to cause an appreciatable decrease in exhaust velocity, in my opinion. The Bigger issue, as I see it, is exhaust heat building up in the plate enough to heat the intake charge. Fortunately this is less of an issue as engine speed rises (ignoring rise in exhaust temp) as a given volume of intake mixture is only presented to the heated reigon for a brief instant, which is decreasing with engine speed rise. This will tend carry heat away from the plate, but in the wrong direction, but to what effect at higher flowrates? Ideally, you want the plate to be as uninsulated with the head as possible as the head is activily cooled, there by making the plate just an extension of the head. Running two gaskets is going to be a necesity, most likely, so this cooling function will be limited due to the insulative qualities of the gaskets. All this said, I'm still of the mindset that heat will not be an issue, but the discussion is worth while. It's a gamble, otherwise it wouldn't be fun...

Hey Matt,

Stay after it. I say the heat will not be a problem. If you make a kit with the rail and such, I will most likely be interested in one or three...

The engine you referred to is the "Team Green" Lancer that runs mid-10s.

Cheers,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988