Hey guys I just got my 64 dart back from the shop 225 1bbl thing runs better now but after it runs for about 25 mins it will die. When i got off school friday i went out and fired it up and bullshit for about 10 mins while it sat and ran in the parking lot. So i get in it and start driving and about a half a mile later it just misses a little and dies all the sudden so i get her over to the side and try to fire it back up no such luck it hits a little with key turned to start but dies instantly when it does start. Well i try one more time and my crappy battery dies on me so I called my dad to come gimme a jump start. About ten minutes later he comes and i hit the key and it fires up and runs i drive a half mile or so to Autozone and get a battery. I get in it and drive another half mile ish and it dies one i fire it back up and make it another 150 feet dies again not to hit a lick. Same thing starts whille starting but soon as it does it dies so im thinking hmm bad ballast resistor so i leave it sitting go get one fires right up I make it to within 75 feet of my driveway and it dies again so i pushed it up the hill and rolled to the store below my house and let it sit for 15 mins fired it up ran fine the 900 feet to my grandpa's and dies again to not restart. I had to go to nashville yesterday and im back today so I went down and fired it up to let it run in the yard 30 mins later after warmed up and holding around 2000 rpm because i wanted to simulate going down the road it starts to slow down even tho im still on the gas and then it just slows way down and dies i hit the starter it fires up idles a second and stalls out.

Any ideas of what this could be? I'm thinking either coil,condenser or fuel sock.

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64 dart GT /225
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Coil or elecronic ignition module (if electronic ignition is installed).

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

It's not the ballast resistor (when that part dies, the engine fires but dies as soon as you release the key from "start" to "run" position). As Reed suggests, this could be a heat-related failure of the coil, the electronic ignition module (if so equipped) or the electronic ignition distributor pickup (if so equipped). Could also be fuel-related; if the fuel filter in the engine compartment, the fuel strainer "sock" in the gas tank, or the carburetor has a lot of sediment in it, the dirt can be sucked up against the screen/filter/carb passages. This cuts off the flow of fuel and the engine dies. With the engine off, the dirt can float away from the screen/filter/passages so the engine will start, but the fuel flow will push the dirt back up and cause the engine to stall again.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I like Dan's fuel delivery explanation.......but is the choke opening all the way up also when its warm???
Andrew/Kidd

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Wife's: 64 Valiant
My: 70 Road Runner, 67 Barracuda, AND the 62 Valiant drag car!!

we've got a 1950 Packard that had the same exact complaint. I put a clear fuel filter on it. Ran fine for a bit, then it would fill up with rusty crud from the tank and lines, and die. Let it sit, starts right up, runs a bit and dies. Changed the filter, worked for a bit, then the same problem. Took off the rusty tank, epoxy coated the inside, replaced the fuel lines, filter, and rebuilt the carb. Off to the races, no more stallng...

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I'm sure I can do this without disconnecting the battery. What could possibly go wrong?

As I was reading your post I was thinking "coil" before I got to the end, but now I favor fuel....as many here I have had the mysterious dieout problem too. Get a fire extinguisher close to hand before you start doing fuel system work, you will never forget what a fire in your baby looks like if you have no extinguisher!

Which prompts me to suggest sumpin real simple. Yeh, I am so experienced it took me months to check the wire-to-terminal connections inside the little pinched in place where wires connect to a coil (+) or (-) terminal. I had a connector that would slowly let the wire slide out of the terminal and slide back close enough to fire when it cooled down. I have also had old enough coil wires that they lost dielectric (insulator quality) as they heated up, then would arc to ground. Being as how wire checks are easier than fuel system checks, you might check those wires first.
rock
'64d100

How about taking the car back to the shop that recently did the "tune-up work" to see what they have to say?
DD

A friend of mine did the work really he owns a junkyard/shop so i call it a shop everything he has worked on is fine its the new stuff thats bugging me im going to stick a coil on it tomorrow because I have a few laying around that are good and see if that fixes it.

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64 dart GT /225
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I got kinda the same problem w/ my 87 Dodge Ram 150. Bought a used carb, cleaned it up real good, Stuck it on,Bam, started right up. ran for abuot 10 minuets. She died, Sounds to me like my carb is sucking too much air. Any one here know where I can get a schematic for vacuum lines? I guess it's possible I might have cross some.