I have a set of NOS MOPAR performance 6 into 1 headers that I'm putting into a 1980 Volare along with an Aluminum Super Six intake. Yes I know all about Dutra Duals but prefer to give the headers a shot. I live in New Jersey and will insta. An electric choke since I'm loosing the choke oven. I am wondering if not having the carb heated by the cast iron ex manifold will give me drivability problems? If it will is there something I can do to heat the carb, ducting, shroudiing, piping? As I recall from days gone by this was a problem with Chevy straight sixes but am not sure what to expect with the slant six. The engine is otherwise stock with 60k original miles and automatic trans that is being swapped to a 4 speed this winter.
Thanks
Scott.

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Scott
1956 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer
1980 Road Runner (Dont call it a Volare!)
2002 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
1976 Corvette Stingray

Scott
My exper. is that it only takes longer to heat up. No problems with driving.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

The warmup time of the engine itself will not be affected. But during cold-engine operation, you will have poorer driveability and fuel economy (unless you dump in a whackload of extra fuel to cover up the poorer driveability, in which case you'll have way poorer fuel economy). You can help reduce this two ways:

1. Keep intact the thermostatic air cleaner system. With headers you're losing the stock manifold stove, but there are bolt-on stoves intended for just this purpose when going to headers, such as this one.

2. Install a water box on your intake manifold. Our own Frank Raso makes a nice one; see it here, and contact Frank via that page for availability.

(I'm suggesting both, not either/or).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'm far from having the expertise as most here, but we have a 63 Valiant with Clifford Headers and 4bbl intake (Holley 390).

I live in Indiana and have had no driveability issues. Electric choke is hooked up and the car fast idles for a couple minutes to warm up, snap the throttle, idle kicks down and we drive happily down the road (60 miles a day round trip to work and back).

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Linder Tech.com
Bubba's Trailer Park

...but you'd still get much better fuel economy with the components I linked to. They're present on stockers because they really help, not because Chrysler felt like adding stuff that didn't need to be there.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

At one time I lived in New Joisey. With the humidity there and temps in the 40's, I found problems with carb icing, when running without heated intake air. I would reccommend a thermostatic air cleaner system, if using the car during the winter months.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Scott,

Do you have the original manifolds, and are they functional?

I might like to buy them from you.

To make my headered 340 California smog legal (in a 71 body) and get license plates after moving there in the 80s, I found I had to add a charcoal can and a snorkel air cleaner with the hot air preheat tube running from the exhaust.

Strangely enough, what I found that worked easily after locating a suitable air cleaner, was to take from a slant six exhaust manifold the little sheet metal piece the lower end of the preheat tube joins to. Because I was buying the air cleaner, charcoal can, and miscellaneous other small bits, the pick a part yard didn't even charge me for it.

Wrap the long tabs (look at one, you'll see) around a straight section of one of the header tubes. Bend the excess length that would overlap into tabs that run 90 degrees out from the header tube. Leave just long enough to run a bolt hole through them allowing you to clamp them tightly together around the tube with a bolt and nut. One of those formable foil covered replacement paper tubes from the nearest friendly local auto parts store completed the task.

Worked like a champ on the cheap and is still there to this day.

Thanks for all the feedback. I will keep the factory air cleaner and either buy a kit to or fabricate my own to get heated air from the headers. That part seems pretty easy a little tougher is the water heat to the base of the carb. It looks like the kit from Frank Raso that Dan recommended is probably the best way to go. For the price I will spend a lot more time and effore trying to fabricate that myself.

I will let you know how I make out.

Ed at some point I may want to get rid of the manifolds but for now im going to hang onto them at lease until I know that it is running fine with the ne setup.

Scott

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Scott
1956 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer
1980 Road Runner (Dont call it a Volare!)
2002 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
1976 Corvette Stingray

One other recomendation I have is to block off the upper part of the rad. The cold air blowing accross the intake really cools the entire engine. I run a 16" pusher so I mount a piece of thin sheet metal on the back side of my rad. I still get the full cooling capacity of the rad with out cooling the intake while moving.
Today I am going to put on my big enclosed aircleaner to pull heat from around the headers and see if I have enough 1/2 inch hose to put on my home made intake heater. I took 1/2" copper tubing and made a U that I can mount to the bottom of the intake.

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A long those lines, I mounted my 16" electric fan so that the mounting brackets rest in the lip of the bottom radiator tank. So the fan is as low as it can go leaving about a 4" open space at the top. In the summer with a 180 stat it rarely turns on unless I am in traffic. With a 195 stat it will come on more frequently. So 95% of the time the intake will stay nice and warm until the fan kicks on and when it does it doesn't blow that much on it. With this set up it really helps to get better mileage and improves cold weather driveability. No bogging or lag in throttle response especially first thing in the morning.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Absolutely. Just please don't scrap them. You must know that central NJ junkyards are useless for such things. I won't even need them until an emerging hairline crack in my exhaust becomes a real crack (machine shop says I probably have 3 years before that happens). Just please PM me when you are confident with the new setup.

Thanks

70Valiant,
I am also trying to do this on the cheap and was thinking about different ways to get water to heat the base of the carb. Are you just going to clamp the U that you made to the base of the intake? what if you tool the U and flattened the 2 legs about half way to give more surface area fo the water to heat the base of the intake?
Scott

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Scott
1956 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer
1980 Road Runner (Dont call it a Volare!)
2002 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
1976 Corvette Stingray

I used the exhaust to intake gasket as a template to make a plate that I sandwich the U to teh bottom of the manifold with. I simply zip tie it in place through the 3 holes.

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You will get much better heat transfer if the coolant is directly washing the bottom of the intake manifold. The factory added nibs to this area for this purpose and the flattened u-tube will not provide very much heating.

If you've already built a plate, I would drill & tap two more holes for a pair of brass 1/2" NPT to 5/8" hose barb adapter elbows. I like the Fairview 139-10D.