ok i have looked over about all of the turbo stuff i can find and i still am having trouble figureing out what i need to make this work. i would like to keep as much of the stuff that i am using now, like the water heated clifford intake, i know i will have to get rid of the headers. first off what all do i need to make this work? i will be runnin this in a truck and i need torque. i dont really care about gas mileage, drivability is an issue, i dont mind doing some tinkering but i want it to be streetable.

what am i going to need to do, what do i need from a donor car, what kind of turbo is going to give me a quick spool up and good low end torque. thanks for all help guys, i like what yall have done with the board, i was a member last year but i stopped coming by because the board was so hard to find stuff on, this is much better

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86 dodge ram w-150
4.10's 4 speed manual
4 inch lift 36's wrapped around weld 15x10 typoons , bored .030, shaved .060, ported, headers, 4-barrel 500 cfm carb, clifford intake& headers, isky racing springs and cam, MP electronic igin,

yall are a quite bunch

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86 dodge ram w-150
4.10's 4 speed manual
4 inch lift 36's wrapped around weld 15x10 typoons , bored .030, shaved .060, ported, headers, 4-barrel 500 cfm carb, clifford intake& headers, isky racing springs and cam, MP electronic igin,

Turbo Slants are kinda on the "bleeding edge", not a whole bunch of them out there.
The ones that have been done range from the "quick & dirty" 2.2 retrofit all the way up to the full EFI controlled bigt boost deals.

The main issue is just getting a Turbo unit mounted, custom pipework at the least, custom exhaust manifold at the most.

So, based on having a Clifford manifold, call some of the turbo suppliers to get an air box or "hat" so you can blow through the carb.
Next would be a TO3 type turbo, 2.2 Mopar ones are pretty easy to find and will spool-up fast, a Buick Grand National system would be better for max power.

You need to be willing to do some "inventing and debugging" work but with some time and effort, the ol SL6 will come alive with a little boost.
DD

so u think blow through is the way to go? i have heard that they are really hard to keep from leaning out when the boost is up or they will be very rich at low rpm's to get the right mix at higher rpm's. what is my best bet for a exhaust manifold, stock , if so can i grind on it and make it work with my clifford intake? thanks for the help doc.

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86 dodge ram w-150
4.10's 4 speed manual
4 inch lift 36's wrapped around weld 15x10 typoons , bored .030, shaved .060, ported, headers, 4-barrel 500 cfm carb, clifford intake& headers, isky racing springs and cam, MP electronic igin,

I used a small IHI turbo off of a Subaru and "piped" it in. (with real pipe!) Think it can be tricky boosting a carb? Try dual single barrels! I modified the stock intake with a ceramic cast adapter. A boost referenced regulator made a big difference with the lean-rich issue. Mechanical advance only, and MSD BTM for retard at boost. 2 1/2 inch exhaust. Works great, except I developed a small leak at the end of last fall. Time to do some welding!

at the risk of sounding stupid, what is a boost referenced regulator?

It's technically vacume/boost attached to a vacuum source. As vacuum drops and turns into boost pressure, the regulator increases the fuel pressure.
Dan

ok i got it now, so does that keep it from leaning out, or is leaning still a problem ?

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86 dodge ram w-150
4.10's 4 speed manual
4 inch lift 36's wrapped around weld 15x10 typoons , bored .030, shaved .060, ported, headers, 4-barrel 500 cfm carb, clifford intake& headers, isky racing springs and cam, MP electronic igin,

Made a big difference in my setup. I started by just modifying a stock mechanical fuel pump to increase fuel flow by attaching a line off of the boost side of the turbo. You can search the posts if you are curious about how to do that, but to be honest, I didn't get to much of an increase in fuel pressure. Maybe because I'm only running 3 or 4 pounds of boost, anyway, I decided to use the electric pump and referenced regulator with great results. I'm going to start fitting a larger turbo on a 75 Dart Swinger that I bought (almost stole!) back in December. With the increased boost, II will definitely be using fuel injection to avoid all of the problems associated with turbo and carb combinations.
Dan

i wonder if you could somehow take the efi off of a 3.9 v6 and modify the computer to run on a S6. is the firing order the same? With a turbo you really need efi. part of the reason they weren't doing it in the 60's. It's difficult to control the fuel with a carb and no vaccuum. We messed with a chivy 350 in school. had a single turbo and TBI. made 180 hp and 400lbsft torque, on the first pull. mapping the fuel curve would take forever. and the slightest amount made a big diff. but even throttle body injection would be an improvement over a carb. MPI, would be expensive, but better.

Don't worry about the firing order, as long as it's a 6 cylinder application you can run the injector trigger wires where ever they need to go to get the correct firing order. With batch fire set-ups you just have two firing groups to worry about so it is pretty easy to figure-out.
DD

It's still a problem, although nowhere near as bad as what you'd have without one. On a mild turbo application, say around 7-8 psi of boost, it's possible to jet the turbo so it runs OK under full boost and it'll still be driveable off boost. That's the strategy I hope to use on my Turbo Dart. There are some tricks that can be used to add a bit more fuel, but most of them are pretty crude. Hugh MacInness outlines many of these in his book <i>Turbochargers</i>. There are some more sophisticated controls possible. I'd like to see if it is possible to alter a Holley Quarter Mile Dial or feedback carb to increase the jet sizes with boost pressure, for example.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair