hello Everyone,
This is my first time posting in this forum. Thanks for the forum in advance, i was checking it out and it seems like is pretty nice.

I recently bought a 1972 Dart Swinger, and it came with a slant 6.
Since the first day that i drove it, the idle seemed kind of rough.
I was driving it, but i discovered that when you stop it stalls and the engine dies. I have to turn it on again and keep going. If i stop, i have to use the accelerator to keep the engine from stalling when the car does a complete stop.
The engine has no power brakes. There are no vacuum lines that go to the booster because it doesnt have one. If i go in reverse and stop slowly or violently it wont stall as if i do it going forward.
I already changed the following:
Distributor carp
Spark plugs
Spark plug cables
exhaust/intake manifold gasket
gasket between intake and exhaust
carburetor base gasket.
And the car still does it.
Also messed with the timing as well.

Any advise or ideas?

Had this problem with my car when I first got it.
I have an automatic, while in neutral it idled rough then, when putting it in drive it would stumble an die.
Adjusted the valves and the problem went away.

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<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3173/2992308402_5481afb26e_t.jpg">

Welcome on the board. It sounds like you're having carburetor troubles. Do you know the history of the carb on this car? Is it a parts store "remanufactured" unit (never buy these, they're junk) , or is it maybe original to the car? If it's in basically good shape, then you probably ought to rebuild it per the Holley 1920 operation and repair manual (pdf) . If it's not worth rebuilding (seriously degraded or a "reman" unit) you may want to look into a new carb. You'll also want to get the factory service manual for your car; there is no substitute.

It sounds like you've already done most of a tune-up, but for reference, Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. And remember, this engine requires periodic valve adjustment.

It's also possible that the EGR valve on your '73 is sticking partway open, which will cause rough idle and stall on stop. It's tough to test for this without removing the EGR valve and either installing a blockoff plate or flipping the valve upside down and installing it with a new gasket. It can hang open due to a hard fault with the valve itself (chunks of carbon, etc.) or due to improper vacuum line routing or a faulty vacuum amplifier (the "hockey puck" looking thing mounted between your air cleaner and your valve cover).

While you are under the hood of your car, see to it that the distributor vacuum advance hose runs directly from carburetor to distributor, without stopping at the OSAC valve on the passenger side of the firewall. When you bypass this valve, the car's driveability and mileage will get much better, with no negatives.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Here is another "vote" for checking the valve lash adjustment.
Other possible causes:
- Mis-adjusted choke
- High carb. float level
- Bad idle circuit in the carb.
- Weak spark (wide plug gap, weak coil, low quality plug wires, etc)
DD

Wow!
That was fast. Thanks guys and thanks for the welcome.
Is there a file or something that can guide me on how to adjust the valves on a s6?
I appreciate your help.!

Red text in a post is a clickable link. I provided several in my last post in this thread, including one to the valve adjustment file.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Did they have a hockey puck on a '72? I thought they only had the evaporation setup.

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

No. Just the evaporation set up with the activated charcoal canister, no EGR. I'd check the float level also. Low level will cause a stall (or a float saturated in fuel).

Oops, sorry, I misread "1973" when what was written was "1972". Forget what I said about EGR and OSAC valves.

BUT,

is your 1972 a California car, or a 49-state car? Check the Vehicle Emission Control Information label under the hood and see. The 1972 California cars had a floor-jet EGR system: a small hole running directly between the intake and exhaust side of the intake manifold, always open, always admitting exhaust into the intake tract. This system does awful things to idle, driveability, and tendency to stall.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.