OK gettin really frustrated.I have an 84 ram 4x4 that I rebuilt the /6 in.I have new plugs,wires,cap, button, coil, ign. box, ballast, and she was runnin well. I tookout the SCC and made it an EI,rewireing the underhood harness. All of the fuses are new and it is well grounded. Has a BBD 2 barrel with a manual choke installed. Set the air gap on the dizzy and used a timing light to adjust timing after I got it started. Have been driving her in the neighborhood and today she died. Got her home and she doesnt seem to be getting fire now. Any suggestions?

Ballast resistor? EI brain? Pickup in the distributor? Coil?

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Systematic diagnosis is what's needed here.

Start with the exact symptoms: Does it try to fire when you crank it with the keyswitch? Does it crank and fire, but fail to stay running when the key is released? Or will it just sit there cranking endlessly until the battery goes flat?

If you get crank-and-fire but it dies when you release the key, then you've probably got a faulty ballast resistor or a faulty wire between the output of the ballast resistor and the coil.

If no fire at all, it's time to get out your voltmeter (you have a voltmeter, right? Or at least a non-powered test light?) and start tracing back along the whole ignition circuit to verify that everything's getting the right power when it should, and everything's well grounded. If power's not getting to the system at all, then you've got a problem with the ignition switch or its wiring. If power stops somewhere, then you've got a faulty wire or connection.

If power's getting to everything appropriately, and there are no faulty grounds, then you have to figure out which component(s) is/are faulty. What is the quality level of the new ignition parts you installed (what brand, bought from where)? Where'd the distributor come from?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Check all your newly made up connections. Chances are good that something came unplugged, or you have a bad splice or crimp. Other than that, follow Dan's instructions. Easy stuff first.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

She wont fire at all. The dist came with the truck when I bought it. The EI box is a blue box from Summitt, the rest of the tune up parts came from Advance. I wrapped the harness with electrical tape nice and tight and I also had to go through the dash harness also as it was monkeyed up by the previous owner. When she died I had been driving her around the block just for a workout and she began to sputter and buck like she was out of gas. Got her re-started and she made it another block before sputtering, bucking and stopping. She is getting plenty of fuel but now no fire, used a spark tester and timing light to check for fire. Guess I'll go thru everything again this weekend to find the break.

If I read your last post right, you are still using the lean burn distributor, yes? This is a no-no. You need a true electronic ignition distributor with a vacuum advance.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

No its not a lean burn it has a vacuum advance. To be honest I never understood why the lean burn was still there, except as a ballast, because nothing else was correct. It didnt have a feedback carb either.

This is one of those great times where the eggcrate 'o spare parts comes in handy. In my experience, when the engine kinda goes *pop* *fizzle* then dead, it has been the ballast resistor every time.

Approximately how long was the truck running before it died?

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

again, if it was just the ballast resistor the engine would start as normal and stall as soon as the key was released.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

I've had multiple vehicles not fire at all because the ballast was dead. Not saying that's the only probable thing, but it does happen.

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

if the vehicle did not fire at all and a new ballast resistor got the car running, then the ballast resistor bypass circuit was also faulty. that may be a possibility here.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

"Blue box from Summit"...tell us more. Was it a generic Summit-branded piece, or was it in a blue box from a reputable manufacturer like Standard Motor Products?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Steponmebbbboom is right. If the ballast resistor is dead, and that's the only problem with the vehicle, it will fire but quit as soon as the key is released. The symptomology is so reliable that it is diagnostic. If it does not do so, then whether or not the ballast resistor is dead, there's another problem somewhere.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

It says mopar elec. control unit on box and a part # of Sum-850018 the ballast was just replaced along with everything else but I did crack the ceramic on it. Cant really explain that other than to say I'm a really big dude and most things break when I touch them

Replace the ballast resistor and try again. Report back if anything changes.

P.S. I'm a big dude too (6/4", 300 pounds) and I have yet to break a ballast resistor during installation. You don't need to torque the center bolt/screw down very tight- just enough to hold the resistor in place. You know you are a big guy, so adjust your manual manipulation accordingly.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.