....and finaly dinking around with my "new" '83 slant. First, here are the results of the compression test:

1. 147
2. 163
3. 170
4. 175
5. 145
6. 160

Numbers 1 and 5 are kinda low, but they are within 20% of the highest. Removing the spark plugs, I realized they where only finger tight! Minor detail....Regapped them to .040. They where nice and clean with a light tan color on them. Bumped timing up to 10 BTDC and noticed no pinging, so may try for 12 (thats stock anyway for that year, right?). Realized where my oil was going....a used valve cover gasket will leak apparently. Maybe when the weather warms up, I'll throw some new gaskets and valve stem seals on it. And paint it...orange! I used the oil pan from Midi's engine on this engine, so it would look kinda funny with an orange pan and the rest blue. Right now its blue valve cover, black/rust (literaly) block, and orange pan. With a blue engine to trans bracket. Guess it is colorful!
So, to make a short story long, I'm rather pleased with how this engine turned out. Its always a crap shoot with used engines...guess I got lucky. I will say this...when I rebuild the old engine, it will be converted to a hydraulic lifter engine. Got tired of adjusting valve lash!

If you are converting to hydro, then I want all your solid lifter stuff. I have a hydro engine that I want to convert to solid lifter at some point as well. Unfortunately, its the engine that is in my car, so I can't pull it out just yet...

Lemme know!

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Whoops! I completely forgot about tightening those plugs Eric! I just threw them in there before I pressure washed it so no water would get in the cylinders.

Those are some pretty good compression readings though. I think that motor has some life left in it.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

No worries Reed, didn't hurt anything. I took the oil fill cap off with the engine running and it seems all the moisture and crud in the block finally burned off. Didn't see any vapers anyway. I cleaned off the milky gunk from the bottem of the oil cap. Blucky.

Thor: Really all you need is the cam, lifters, push rods and rockers..you can still use the hydro head, just use the aft bolt for that motor instead of a solid lifter motor (different sizes of bolt).

Cool! I think all that sludge and crap built up due to the busted thermostat. That thing was FLOWING. If the motor is getting nice and hot now the crud should burn off and the oil passages should clean out. Awesome.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Yup, none of which I have. Actually, I take that back, I have the rocker shaft. I need a cam/lifters and the rear bolt.

I still planned on using the hydro head, I am too lazy to swap to an earlier head for non-existant performance/mileage gain.

Merf, technically I would need to get new lifters with a new cam anyways right?

So, since I will be getting a new cam in the next few months, lifters will be following, so I guess all I need are pushrods really...

Anyways, it sounds like your engine has alot left to give, I'm glad! Stealth Bomber Forever!!!

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing