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 Post subject: Engine rebuild parts
PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 5:05 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2008 2:50 pm
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Location: Denver Pa
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I am ready to start gathering parts for my engine rebuild and was wondering the best bang for buck parts that i will need. Starting with a 1974' 225 block factory bore size, new pistons, rings, cam, head milled .100 ported and polished, going for 9.5 comp., super six(still wondering about carb. choice) 75 shot of juice. Wondering best place for gaskets, rings, and pistons. Also the best cam choice. This is going in my '75 dart 4 door, 904 with b&m shift kit, ford 8.8 rear 3.55 gearing. Thanks 75custom

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Image75 dart custom, 225, >10.5-1, hurricane, 500holley, erson cam, 904, 8.8 ford 3.55 or 3.91 aussielocked, 17" steelies, and much more.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 5:32 am 
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Location: East Arkansas
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Lay out your budget. How much for the engine alone? TC? NOS? etc. Then look at what your goal is. Do you have some of the parts already? Will these be New/Nos or good used?
Just some ideas to think about.
Frank

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 4:02 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Location: Denver Pa
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I already have the motor and im looking for the right pistons, rings, cam, and gaskets to use. going to be using the super six setup and nos is a later thing but would like to plan for it now. Car is a weekend show and go only.

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Image75 dart custom, 225, >10.5-1, hurricane, 500holley, erson cam, 904, 8.8 ford 3.55 or 3.91 aussielocked, 17" steelies, and much more.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 5:48 am 
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Ok
If you are staying pretty mild. Using stock parts will be fine. A shop of 75hp nos will not hurt anything if your tuned properly. I would PM Dennis (Slantzilla) and pick his brain for using nos and getting the tune right.
Good luck,
Frank

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73 Duster - Race Car
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178" FED
82 D150
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 5:58 am 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
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If you have your heart set on using a Super Six intake/carb, I would use Doug's single nozzle fogger set-up. AFIK, there is no plate available for the BBD bolt pattern, but I could be wrong.

When picking the rest of your parts you have to decide if you will stay with a SS setup or dump it for a 4bbl because the motor combination is very dependent upon carb choice. You'll end up a lot better off with a mild motor and 4bbl than trying to build a stronger motor and choke it with a BBD. :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 6:44 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Location: Denver Pa
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First off let me say thanks for the info everyone. Secondly let me start over, The motor i'm trying to build is for my dart. So far I have ported and polished the head and have had it milled .100. The block has been cleaned and is ready for the rebuild. i'm looking for power in the 2000 to 4500 rpm range. The reason for this i am planing to run in the local road race this spring which has 3 miles of up hill twists and turns, 4 mile strait away across the top of the mountain, and a 5 mile return through town. i'm looking for a motor that will have a good amount of torque to fly around close turns but wont die out to fast on the strait aways. The rear axle in the car is a ford 8.8 with 3.73 gearing and factory posi, But with the taller and wider tires its right around 3.55. i'm just unsure of cam choice, and a good gasket brand. And also are pistons through say summit racing a good choice. Thanks again, and happy new year

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Image75 dart custom, 225, >10.5-1, hurricane, 500holley, erson cam, 904, 8.8 ford 3.55 or 3.91 aussielocked, 17" steelies, and much more.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 4:14 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
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Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Far as gaskets go, you can order a engine gasket set from rockauto.com, and it should be the Fel-Pro gasket set. Last I checked, it was about 75 bucks.

I would maybe use a different head gasket though. The Fel-Pro headgasket it a tiny bit thicker compressed than say a Victor-Reinz.

I've used the Fel-pro gasket set on 4 different engines so far and they seem to work just fine.

Are you planning in getting a new Torque converter? If the one that is in there is stock, you may have more luck with a higher stall piece. I ran a 2200 stall Mopar Performance converter in my '71, and though it didnt make any difference over 2000 RPM (since the 2200 rating was for the V8 ), it helped the low end get up to the torque range much faster.

~THOR~

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Last edited by THOR on Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 5:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 3:56 pm
Posts: 1967
Location: Dalton, GA
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You should get with Dart270 aka Lou for that type of project. He probaly has the best road race Slant car in the USA. Thanks Ron Parker :D











It Aint Over Until I Win


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 8:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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0.060"-over cast pistons should work fine on the stock 225 rods for a budget build. If you have a dependable machine shop, then get the rotating assembly balanced.

Cam for that RPM range cannot be very wild. I'd say with 9.5:1 you could do an Erson 280 int/270 exh reverse split pattern cam with 108 LSA. I have ordered this for my '68 Dart but haven't installed yet.

With an auto (even stock converter) and road racing, you will never see under about 2500 RPM, so you can go a little wilder on cam if you like. The above cam should be perfect.

Head porting and bigger valves will be the best money you can spend.

It does seem a 390 4bbl or 350 or 500 2bbl Holley would be the way to go. The 350 would probably be the easiest and best choice, although the 390 4bbl would be easiest to get a N2O plate for as 'Zilla mentioned.

Would love to hear more about this road race. Sounds like a "hill climb" to me.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 3:31 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:04 am
Posts: 324
Location: hillsborough NC
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hold up wait

go to car quest and order there master rebuild kit if you are gonna rebuild. but first and formost pull the engine apart and check things out i pulled my 225 apart this moring i wont get into details but i had some issues like the crank was so ruff in places it looked like it had threads, you cant do much till you learn more about what you need inside it could couse problems down the road when it is driven harder. the kit round here cost about 500 some dollers and it comes with a lot of important parts

but be for i got into the engine i was planing a budget of about $750 yea all that crank work blew that out of the hole, you are gonna drop some money in the engine eny way you go but try to put it in the right places

also have a pro balence the rotating assembly becouse the engine will run better and have a better power out put

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
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hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 10:47 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2003 8:51 pm
Posts: 701
Location: Marion.Va
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75 Dartcustom,
Are you speaking of the Weatherley Hill Climb?
HyperValiant

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1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress


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