careful, apparently machining costs vary wildly from place to place.

_________________
I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Well, I'm not entirely sure what I did wrong or right on my car but I ran 17's and I had to do a pretty intensive build. My first problem is I never got the specs on my cam. I do run stick shift and my reaction time is pretty horrible, but I was still hoping for low 16's and ran low 17's. I weigh 3100 with me in it.... so shoot for a pretty sturdy build not skimping thinking it will destroy it being a daily driver.
If you need anything give me a call. I got three cams now, one nothing but a useless core you could have. The holley is originally off my 75' Duster that I rebuilt when I was sixteen about a month before I did my super six setup. So it might need another kit through it being as Steph's didn't seem to hold up (sorry about that). Last I got a block (needs overbore) and a crank from my 75' Duster original. Since I just bought the 170 from Josh I would sell you the block for a great price . Other than that I think you know what to do, look at the porting Stonek has done as well.

Two words: HEAD WORK

I would not waste my money on any converter less than 2400 stall. Stick with stock if you're only going to go up to 2000 stall.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Wise man right there folks.

I've run low 16's with a completely stock '80 long block with an Offy, 390 Holley, and Clifford headers. I used a 3500 stall and 3.91 gears in a 3250# car. Motor would turn 4600 RPM, and turn on the shift light going through the traps.

Same motor on the hose went high 14's.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Wowzers!

Wes:

I think that I would like to stick with the 225, as the 225 is more torque friendly than a 170.

Lou:

I have been paying very close attention to the recent head porting threads, and I do have A head that I can try it on. It would be good for practice and probably not much else, since it's an early '63 head and most likely has those halk-moon flat spots in the combustion chamber.

I dunno. Would I need to run a lower ratio'd rear to run a 2400 stall without "speeding"? At 2400 I would be doing right around 70 mph, which may not be all that much, but around here where I live, that's sure to get me a ticket... they pay alot of attention to old cars round here, and harass accordingly...

That makes more sense as you mention it as well. IIRC, the max torque output for a stock slant was around 2400 RPM, not that it is relavent to a custom build.

I may have access to .040" over pistons, but I am not sure if it would be worthwhile to go through the process of getting the block prepped for them. The engine in the car currently has ~125k miles on it, so far as I can tell, it doesn't burn/leak oil, but with the higher compression I will inevitably give the engine with the addition of a solid lifter setup, that may change.

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I am confused. Are you thinking that the converter will not lock unless you are turning 2400 RPM?

Unless you are using a mega-loose race converter you will not even notice much difference from a stock one unless you floor it. High stall converters will lock up under normal power applications.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I well made modern converter with 2800 stall feels almost like stock until you stand on it. 2400-2600 might give you a bit less slippage at cruise, and will likely be as efficient as your stock 1800 factory unit. A good one is not cheap. Figure on $400+ from Midwest or Edge or Continental or PTC.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

THOR, sorry I must've confused you. I got a 225 short block. I stole the head off of it and put it on the 170 I got from Joshie over break. I got a block (needs bore), rods, crank, and a cam core. Just trying to help and throw out ideas. These guys are right though, Josh keeps up with me with pure headwork, which I didn't do as well as i could've. One thing is I had friend's help me with my build. I have no idea if they shaved off .1 or .01, or what the specs of my cam are, or if they properly did the valve work. For all I know I have a stock slant with bigger valves and fuel injection. So, just make sure you tell the guys what your want, give OregonCam the exact number and so forth.

Yea, I will defnitely do that.

I am working some ideas out in my head right now, trying to figure out what my plan of attack should be.

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Well, to start have you got some of those oversize valves? That is a starting place for me with this build. I would say that the head is going to be an obvious place to start. The other real benefit is that if you do a good head, it doesn't matter if you have a cast crank or a hot 170. If I though I had done my head perfectly last time I would simply swap it over, but I've learned even more from then. That said let's work with the cast set-up for right now.
A nice clean head is a starting place. If you're worried have stuff fluxed and sonic checked accordingly. I'm going to assume... So, out of all the machine work this is what you can do. Port the head or for arguement's sack gasket match. One thing from Stonek's experience stay off the floor, keep it to a minimal, I does minimal good anyway. The roof is good, and the sides. In fact once you use the gasket as a template I would suggest going back and taking more off the sides. Than you can haul it off to the machine shop for a good 3 angle, shave head and possibly block, and last bronze guides. Take the new valves to them and enjoy. Springs will be important, the 340 should work for anything you'll drive on the street. The bottom end I would be very minimal about, cam is going to be your choice and up to poeple who drive automatic.
Balancing the bottom end should help you with this idea of a lighter crank. Play to your strengths. Richard was telling me about his machinist could shave off of most of the balance pad on the top of the rod, hey, it could add up to pound! This is where I wish they had hypereuretic's for the slant six, you could crown it a little and help the compression. The block could use some shaving, but if it's flat you could probably skip it. I would avoid a complete 10:1 compression.
So, the head should be reasonable and money well spent. Cam is in your department. So, money saved by avoiding the 198 rods and maybe other riches will let you slide over to other stuff you need. A four barell will be very nice and an exhaust system. I think headers are a waste unless you build them yourself. So $500 in the head a cam and bottom end, why not look at an 8 1/4 swap with some decent gears?