I've tried soldering here and there, but did not end up well. What is the best way to ,and whats the best solder to use , and should I use electrical flux.
Maybe someone could post a soldering for dummies. I would like to solder my wiring for the best connection.

Thanks
Dave

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81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

I don't profess to be an expert but it isn't really difficult. For electrical connections do not, under any circumstances, use acid core solder or acid based flux.

I use rosin core solder. I don't remember the size because I'm still working on a 1 lb spool that I've had for probably 30 years. It's a fairly fine wire, probably about equivalent to 12 or 14 gauge wire. Use only as much heat as you need; a 25 watt pencil iron is adequate for most jobs.

Apply the heat to the wire until it is hot enough to melt the solder then touch the solder to the wire until it flows onto the bare wire and coats it. When joining a wire to a circuit or connector you can pretin (coat with solder) both surfaces then place them together and touch the iron to them until the solder flows to make clean bond. Hold the 2 pieces in position until the solder solidifies or you will have a cold solder joint.

I'm sure other will have additional tips for you or may prefer a different method. The best advice is practice, practice, practice.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

what's wrong with acid base flux?

Unless you have a flux capacitor you can t get anywhere. (acid/base)

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I think the acid base flux will eventually mess up you wiringover time.

Thanks for the replies, I guess it is just something you have to practice with. Hopefully more people will chime in.

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81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

Acid based solder will do what acids do, eat away at what you put them on. If you use acid core on wiring, in time, it will eat the wire away, and suddenly, you are back at square one.

Dakight is pretty much right on. Though for a quicker job use a butane torch (if conditions are right only, don't want to set the vehicle aflame).

Also, using shrink tubing is one of the best ways to seal the job up. You need to cut a piece and leave at least 1/2" on each side of the bare wire to ensure a good seal. Place the shrink tubing on the wire first, then solder the connection.

It doesn't take much heat to shrink the wrap once you are ready for it. If you feel it necessary, you can also tape it with quality electrical tape. I recommend the Duct Tape brand electrical tape, the cheap stuff from your favorite hardware store will probably do the job, but it tends to lose its adhesiveness in a short amount of time, then it looks like you have bats hanging under the dash... *spooky*

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Best tip for soldering is to have the piece as clean as possible.

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<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3173/2992308402_5481afb26e_t.jpg">

how long does it take to eat the wiring? I used some on one wire connection in my ignition harness and am thinking I should cut and splice using rosin flux to correct my mistake.

Performance will start to degrade within 6 months or so, and total wire failure within probably a year or two. If you put acid anything in there, cut it out, and redo it. That will save you a headache and a half later on.

Use rosin core solder, and you will be good to go!

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

1. First rule of soldering; bright clean metal. I reiterate; BRIGHT CLEAN METAL, free of oil, moisture, and Cheetos residue.

2. Strong mechanical connection, in other words twist tightly two or more wires together in such a way that they won't easily pull apart before soldered.

3. Use correct flux for the job: Rosen for electrical; and acid for; sheet metal, radiators, plumbing. Acid fluxes must be neutralized after soldering job is completed to stop it from corroding any metal it came in contact with.

If acid flux is used on stranded wire it wicks via capillary action along the conductor, and is imposable to wash off with neutralizing agent under the insulation. Soon the untreated wire turns green, and rots off...

4. Use the correct size soldering iron. I like to heat the splice quickly, apply the solder, and cool it quickly to prevent damage to surrounding insulation. I use a Weller two heat gun rated at 100 & 140 watts. For electronics I use a 25 watt pencil iron. The nice aspect of the Weller is it heats in a matter of seconds, and as soon as the trigger is released it shuts off, and cools rapidly, a nice feature. It will also very quickly heat up a large gage wire splice when used on high.

A smaller watt iron will get the job done, but due to the long time to heat the splice, a lot of heat radiates along the conductor destroying the insulation by over heating it.

5. Technique; with Weller type gun, tin up tip, leave a small excess of solder on tip. When small drop is molten, touch it to the splice (this increases the surface area of the tip adding in rapid heat transfer), and at the same time apply the fresh rosin core solder to the opposite side gently pushing to the tip. As soon as the rosin core solder melts, keep the heat to the splice until the solder flows into it, and is shiny. At that point, remove the heat immediately so as not to melt any insulation. Less is more, don't apply so much solder that it wicks up along the conductor under the insulation.

I would practice on some scrap wire of differing gages until you get nice tight mechanical splices, and glob free soldered connections before attempting this under the dash where conditions are less than ideal.

6. If the metal isn't sufficiently clean, or loose sloppy mechanical splice, and or not enough heat used to flow the solder into the splice you will end up with a cold solder joint which will fail electrically at some point.

Electrical tape tip. Avoid using it on your car, practically in the engine compartment as it doesn't hold up well to heat, and will become unwrapped, or loose over time. The best tape we used in the electrical biz was 3M's #33. Use shrink wrap on all soldered joints, this helps reduce vibration failure, and won't degrade in hot environments, and looks neet, clean & professional. Your car will love you for it.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I spent 31 years in the aerospace electrical/electronics business, and I strongly recommend crimped terminations instead of solder. If you know what you're doing, crimps with solder are the best, but if you don't know what you're doing, solder will shorten the life of the connection.

Most wiring in old cars was never meant to be soldered, so the plating on the strands does not allow solder to flow properly and pockets of contamination, even using non-acid core solder, will quickly contribute to corrosion. A properly crimped termination will outlast a soldered connection 99% of the time.

64 Convert, you may be right, but.

The junk 'crimped splice devices' readily available at one's local auto parts emporium are not so hot. When I got my Dart, she was full of cheep plastic coated crimp connectors, and twisted splices secured with electrical tape. Just about everyone of those made up connections were faulty. Either not crimped correctly, plastic split, conductor fatigued as it entered the device, tape unraveling leading to shorts, or moisture had invaded the connection. In replacing those splices, I tried to make good competent connections with the correct crimpers using the afore mentioned junk, but the result was a flopping bad looking mess. I started over using a good mechanical splice doted with solder, and insulated with shrink wrap resulting in a strong moisture resistant, non bulky, electrical connection that won't come apart.

A good percentage of the mess I encountered on the harness was replaced with a new color correct conductor & a new crimped brass spade eliminating most of the old splices.

Chrysler made a few soldered splices up under the dash, and wrapped them up with friction tape on my 67'. Those connections looked A-OK 40 some years later, however the tape had seen better days. These old heaps don't require military spec. connections. The biggest problem is keeping moisture out of the harness particularly if the car is operated in northern road salt areas.
Oh?

I never had a problem flowing solder on clean metal, and have never seen "plated" or tined conductors used in anything but small electronic devices & I guess, perhaps rocket ships.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

In the earliest days of radio (1920s) (my other hobby), several manufacturers began with acid flux. Their radios failed rather quickly, which was distressing to the consumer, as many radios cost as much as several weeks wages back then!

- Mac

Simply put:

Acid + metal + oxygen = oxide of that metal.

Acid + copper + oxygen = copper oxide... Green stuff

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Thanks for the comments. I recently tried my luck with a battery powered solder gun. It seems to do good . It heats very quick with a push button trigger. I seem to have better success with that than the regular soldering gun.


Dave

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81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .