Tomorrow I plan on pulling my head to see what, if anything, has been modified.

I found Enginebuilder's EBay listing for SS over size valve set with retainers, 1.70" & 1.44", for around 70 bucks. These valves add 10% for intake & 12% more area to exhaust opening over stock, correct? I'm not a slide rule toting engine nerd, so help me understand, is 10% gain in area a big deal, or just a marginal increase.

I recall reading here some where that Ford 300 ci valves, a bit larger still, will work on a slant but need to be shortened. I searched, and can't find that info. Is that true, or am I off in La-La Land again?

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Those are the valves you want unless you plan on doing a large overbore and extensive combustion chamber work. The Ford 300 valves require different guides and retainers due to their smaller diameter stems. Along with porting work the 1.70/1.44" vales make for a nice flow increase.

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Joshua

If you go with 300 ford valves, make sure the head lines up with the bores correctly, and go with .040 over-bore for clearance. I had to take a bit off my valve diameter to clear the cylinder wall due to the head being shifted slightly to the back of the block on the dowls.

Three bent valves were my first indication. Do the check up front, and avoid the issue all together.

CJ

Thanks guys, I'm not doing anything to the block. I'll stick with the easy way. With a little luck, the previous owner may have done all the heavy lifting, and this will be just a paint the header & replace a freeze plug project... No not this car, what am I thinking, nothing has been easy so far.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

What are your performance goals, and budget constraints?

Engnbldr valves are quite nice and unbeatable for price. You can make a high flowing head with port work.

Mike Jeffrey is working on a head for me now based on those valves that should make great power.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Just want to perk the old girl up a bit. After driving my 300C, and than the Dart, she just feels like a slug. The carburetor rebuild in December helped out a bit. But, I want more...

Check new posting: "Head flow improvement project".

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

wjajr.

Have you done a good distributor recurve yet? After my second try I had to detune it a little to mellow out the engine. The tires were breaking loose too much and that is with a 8 3/4 posi with 2.76 gears. I thought I was going to prematurely stretch the timing chain because it was so snappy. This is based on a torque cam, Erson 254.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Aggressive Ted:
Snappy this engine ain't. I have a torque free cam, at low rpm, of unknown spec. This car will not spin the tires on pavement, add a little sand and she will. One would think that this car equipped with a 3.55 suregrip, there should be on demand wheel spinning any where, any time.

I can tell you what is going on with the distributer. Last summer I discovered that the large spring was missing, and I got a black spring from someone on the forum. That smoothed out a jittery timing mark at idle.

Vacuum advance is 7R, governor is 11R, short spring red, long black. Got the orange box. Someone suggested that perhaps an 11R can screwed in 4 turns may be of benefit. I don't know, I would rather duplicate a build, than mess around with endless combinations.

Now to be fair to the engine, my torque converter has a low stall, it feels like it is all in around 17-1800 rpm, well below the torque sweet-spot. I suspect that if that were replaced with a 2300 or so rpm converter this car would come alive.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Wjajr,

You hit the nail on the head. Instead of copying my set up it would be much better to change the torque converter first to match the cam. Some how you need to figure what the cam is or measure it. I remember reading a post from Doc on how you could do that while the cam is still in the engine. You might want to PM Doc.

Once you get that figured out and install a complimentary torque converter, then you will know what rpms to recurve the distributor to, for the best performance.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

The Doctor of Dodgeolagy's lesson to me yesterday over in Transmissions & Rear-ends regarding Torque Converter stall speed:
Josh had something to say here About determining cam specs.

Haven't located Doc's installed cam decoder ring yet.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC