I agree with Terry. Weld or otherwise close up those mech adv slots to allow only 15 deg swing between and idle and full advance.

Two words I've said many times before:

Stall converter.

This will make more difference than axle ratio changes. Order something in the 2500-2800 range from a reputable maker.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I replaced the heavy spring in my distributor with the original light one. This helped the power come on earlier and smoother. I should be back at the track on Wednesday night.

Went back to the track tonight.

R/T. .142
60'. 3.03
330'. 8.28
MPH. 43.86
1/8. 12.57
MPH. 56.96

The car feels stronger but isn't running any quicker. It was warmer than it was last time at the track.

I can't get over the fact of bone stock cars running quicker than I am. Cars with similar mods are running much quicker. I'm not looking for it to be a race car. I would be ecstatic with a 17 second quarter at this point.

The car runs well, as far as I can tell. I have never driven another slant so I have no comparison. What is holding me back? The cam with the stock converter? If the machine shop didn't mill the head as much as they claimed?

did you do a compression check to see what cyl pressures you have , also you have to improve you 60ft`s , try lower tire pressure in the rear and increase the front ,also loading the converter off the line. what total timing are you set at and does the motor ping or show any signs of detination?

11* initial and 18* mechanical. Any more initial and it makes for hard starting. No signs of detination.

Hooked up my other tach and it is erratic just like the old one. I did some research and many folks have had problems with sun tachs. I can't get a good reading on idle rpm and how much I am loading the converter at the line.

On my first run last night, I made it to about the 330 mark and the car just nosed over and quit pulling. It was almost like the trans was freewheeling but my rpms didn't shoot up? It did this on the street a couple of weeks ago but these are the only 2 times.

Did you degree the cam?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

No, I did not degree the cam.

With your mods, I would expect 1/4 mile between 17 and 18.5 with a decent tuneup.

Your "freewheeling" sounds like not enough timing advance? Are you sure about your timing measurements? Your balancer ring could have slipped and caused error in timing marks.

Cam timing is a common problem with poor performance. Might be worth pulling the timing cover and degreeing it in. Would be too far retarded. You want to put yours in at 100-102 installed. Forget what COMP specs for it.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

when you say 11degs intitial and 18degs mech, are you see 28degs total at 2600rpms?

Did you rebuild the carb or just tune it?
My Holley used to do what you described because it had some gunk in it that would occasionally get sucked into a jet and bog something fierce. Do you have your metering rods up enough and your pump shot as big as it will go? I adjusted Pauls BBD at Pittsburgh about 5 years ago and he picked up almost 1/2 a sec in the 1/4.
Slants need a big pump shot since the runners are so long.

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I have tinkered with the bbd quite a bit. I have it running and idling the best it has since the rebuild. I had a pretty large shot with the accelerator pump but I was having a bog so I backed it back a bit and the bog went away.

The timing reading should be accurate.

Is there a good thread on degreeing the cam? Can this be accomplished with the motor in the car fairly easily?

with 9.5/1 compression have you tried going to 32degs, when i ran my stock valve 10/1 engine with 276deg/ 528lift cam it ran it`s quickest at 32degs total with supreme and octane boost .