Surely someone has come up with a homemade fix for kickdown linkage using the SuperSix. I got my Hooker headers and SuperSix in the mail yesterday. I'll hunt the salvage yards for a rebuildable carb following the suggestions I've seen here, but I still won't have the linkage or the money for a manual valve body.
Also, mounting the headers obviously changes how the intake is mounted. Do I need different bolts, washers, etc to mount the headers with the SuprSix? Sorry, the car is over an hour's drive away, so I'm not looking right at it. I read the exhaust article, but it didn't mention differences in mounting headers. Just mentioned gaskets, etc. Only 49 days left to Bristol and I have made no progress on the Duster and am $100+ in the hole. Starting to have some doubts.
Rob

Rob,

As far as header and intake bolting is concerned, mounting headers should not change the way the intake is bolted up. The header flange should be the same thickness as the flange on the intake manifold. Thus, the headers should mount up using the same studs and funky triangle washers used for the intake/exhaust manifold.

Hope this helps.

Erik

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There's someone in my head but it's not me!!

I have the headers (Hooker) and the aluminum SuperSix manifold sitting in my garage. I briefly looked at them this weekend and it looks like the intake flange is about twice as thick as the header flange. I didn't measure them, but the difference is apparent to the naked eye.
Also, I read on Matt the Mad Scientist's web site that the aluminum intake is too porous and should be avoided. Any comments on that one?
I wasn't able to go get the Duster this weekend after all. So, with only 45 days until Bristol and so far only verifying that the car runs, I'm not sure I'm gonna make it. Still need guidance on exhaust, etc though. If the SuperSix is going to be too much work, I can always just replace the cracked exhaust manifold with the headers and call it good for now.

On the aluminum intake, it depends on which aluminum supersix intake you have. Check out Reed's article here http://www.slantsix.org/articles/supersix/article.htm

That will tell you which one you have.

I'm sure you won't have any problems.

Pat

I had no problem with the linkage on my SuperSix setup. There is a "ball stud" on the side of my carb, and I used a 1/4" rod threaded 1/4-28 on each end. I measured the length to the pivot on the firewall and cut to length, then threaded and used the stock ends from the old linkage.

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

Patrick, Thanks for the link to Reed's article. I hadn't found that one yet. That helps.
Chuck, when you say you used your old linkage, are you referring to the original 1 barrel linkage or just modifying a SuperSix linkage? Also, what body is this in? Is it in an earlier 63-66 Narrow body or later 67-76 Wide body? I think that may make a difference(?)
Thanks again guys, the help is much appreciated.
Rob

Oops! I think you got me. It's been a long time. As I recall, the "original" kickdown linkage hooks to the carb linkage from the firewall pivot, so I believe I took the "bell crank" parts off of the 2bbl linkage and made a new straight rod of the correct length. The rod is connected to a ball stud on the carb and then to the firewall pivot. I don't remember where I got the donor ends, since I had a lot of stuff hanging around from the old shop days. The kickdown rod I made has worked on both a Holley 390 4bbl and a Carter 2bbl. The car is a '63 Dart Convertible.

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster