I am new to valve adjustments, and have a few questions. I need to know which valve is the exhaust valve, and which valve is the intake valve. Also, is there a specific tool for measuring the adjustments? I got some information from www.allpar.com which states "adjust the rocker arm screw so there is .022 play between the exhaust valve tip and the rocker arm. Next adjust the intake to .012." What exactly does that mean? If you have any other tips I would appreciate it. Thanks

Welcome to the site.

There are lots of prior threads regarding valve adjustment.

Given all the past posts covering most anything you will want to know about your slant, some time spent searching will go a long way.

Here's one;

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... ent+wrench

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74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.

As to which is intake, which is exhaust, look at the manifold runners leading to the valve in question. The two center valves are intake - matching the two center runners of the intake manifold. The outer two are exhaust. Except for the center runners, the intake and exhaust valves alternate.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

For adjustment all you need is a 3/8" end wrench and a .010 and a .020 feeler gauge. On a stock cam the intake is gaped at .010 and the exhaust at .020.
Once adjusted it will idle like a clock.

I re-adjusted mine this morning. Take a look at the red link below my name. I will post some shots I took in a few minutes. This is what the engine looks like after 55,000 miles after the rebuild. I have been using Mobil 1 0-30W synthetic oil and the Wix 1806 oil filter from NAPA Auto Parts per SL6 Dan's recommendation. The rubber valve cover gasket can re-seal many times if you don't over tighten the bolts.

As mentioned earlier, it is pretty easy to see which valve is which, just look across to the intake manifold. I do all the intakes first, then the exhaust. I make a second pass to double check then a third pass to be sure. This is done while the engine is full warmed up and idling. Clean up with a little Simple Green diluted 50/50 with hot water and your good for another year!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Wow! I'm sold on that oil if I rebuild my engine. Would you recommend that oil for a tired old engine like mine? I wonder if it would do as well cleaning up an engine as it does keeping it clean?

Good stuff and nice pics.

Thanks

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74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.

Go easy with a quart of Rislone for a few oil changes first and see what it does. If the oil turns black immediately you might have allot of build up.
When I bought my 74 it had 154,000 on it and the oil looked like a milk shake since the guy took out the thermostat do to overheating problems. I gently flushed it with Rislone for about a year or so before I started adding a quart of synthetic. Each oil change I added an additional quart, and one less dino oil. After 6 oil changes I was running full synthetic. That was over a period of two years or more. The engine ran like a top till I it hit 355,000 and I got the bad oil filter that collapsed internally and starved the engine of oil at full speed on the freeway.

That's another story. I have saved several badly abused engines with this process over the years.

I broke in the rebuilt SL6 that you see with Kendal diesel engine oil then switched to Mobil 1.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Opening the valve cover will show how much sludge you have. I wouldn't want to flush all thae crap through the oil system. Diesel oils have lots of detergents. My 360 in my van was pretty clean at over 100K just using conventional 10-30 Valvoilne. Not even diesel oil.

That is a very clean engine! Synthetic worth the extra $$$$? I don't know. Not for me.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Reading up on Rislone at BITOG site and found several favorable posts. Nice to read posts from people seeing the result with their own eyes.

Having recently done my valves hot I'm not too bad off with sludge however I wouldn't post pics of the inside of my valve cover like you did Ted.

The inside of my valve cover took me several goings over with gasoline and a brush to get it good enough to go back on. At least there wasn't much of any on the rockers and such.

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74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.

Yeah, thats a factor for me as well. However I did note (not buy) that
Mobil 1 synthetic at Wally World in Pocatello Idaho is $22 per 5 quart bottle. That isn't much more than the name brand stuff although I did see some Wally World brand 5 quart dyno for $10. LOL listen to me as I say out loud that a little over 4.00 a quart for oil is starting to sound reasonable. Whats next? Will I think that only paying $2 a gallon for diesel will be reasonable.

Thats just sick... So I leave this post while I ponder how many $5 dollar foot longs it will take to top off my truck next week

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74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.

Welcome on the board. Follow the valve adjustment procedure. 0W30 is appropriate for an engine in new or as-new condition. 5W30 is appropriate for an engine in top mechanical condition and for engines in average conditions at extremely cold temperatures. 10W30 for average engines in average temperatures. Thicker than that only for really whipped/worn engines. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Get these three books as quickly as you can. Use the NAPA Gold 1806 filter. If your engine is internally dirty, don't just dump in this or that or the other magic potion; follow the soup recipe.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.