Do you think that they made the top thicker to support the manifold? It would seem that it would crack from top to bottom. On another note to highjack this tread I nominate Shaker223 for "slant enthusiast of the year"

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it's like a vw, sounds like a million miles an hour but goes really slow. (for now)

It may have been core shift, I really don't know. If it is an issue, I'll weld some stiffening runners on the bottom. Doc might be better able to answer the casting type of questions.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Would extrude honing have worked on this without having to cut it open?

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Grandpa's 1974 Dart Custom 4 door 225 auto, Aluminum Radiator, 1920 Holley.

Yes but it is over $300. Additionally, I would think it removes the same amount of material from all sides. In my case, the floor is fine where it is at and there is more material that needs to be removed from one side.

_________________
11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

3 runners matched to the port in the head. 3 to go.

CC's of water
Port**Before****After****Difference****% Volume Gain
1*****257******322*********65********25.29%
2*****250******311*********61********24.40%
3*****244******294*********50********20.49%

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

in speaking today with PP&R the extra material is for support due to length of the intake. It is to help the "mounting ears" and runners from pulling/sagging.

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it's like a vw, sounds like a million miles an hour but goes really slow. (for now)

If it becomes an issue, I can build an external support or add extra material on the bottom (externally).

_________________
11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Well well you are 1 switched on guy, ok now that you have cut the manifold open i will fill in a few blanks, These manifolds were designed to be used on a street/ strip type engine. from feedback i received they are also performing great on race engines. This manifold took me a long time to develop so it was true horsepower out of the box. The casting is thicker at the top for strength, If you look at the flow figures they are staggered for a reason & i am glad now ported that they are all still staggered as there is a reason for this. by increasing the port volume by porting it it will drop of a bit of air speed & i dont recommend it for a hot street car as it all comes down to air speed & torque. in a forced induction engine it is a totally different thing.. For those who think we are holding back or are not continuing the AussieSpeed PP&R blower manifold for the slant it is not the case, If you run a carb on top of your blower fuel distribution is more critical than a N/A engine... beacause if you get 2 out of 6 that are getting less than the others there is a very good chance it will go BANG.. detonation is a wonderful thing.. So good luck with ya projects & the SL6 AussieSpeed PP&R blower manifold is only weeks away..
Regards Mark...

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www.aussiespeed.com

This will be for a boosted application so, like you said everything is different vs a NA application. Thanks for a great product!

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc