Hi Guys,

After much bodywork I finally got my 60 Belvedere back on the road, been off since November. I took it out for a spin and noticed after a bit (when I had the nuts to take it above 20mph, amazing what getting used to a modern car does) I notice the automatic transmission seems to slip (revs getting higher with only a minimal increase in speed). I checked the fluid and it was perhaps slightly low, so I topped it up with little difference.
Changes were a bit slushy but noticeably there. The car will move off very gently whilst idling, as it used to. Since November it has been brought out of the garage and up the drive, and often left the engine ticking over for an hour or so just to make sure stuff was still flowing around it and not perishing/corroding.

I only have a vague idea of how automatics work, and I'm guessing this is down to a pressure loss to the clutches or somthing similar? Is this an easyish fix or does it sound like a rebuild. I hope not, I've just spent a fair bit on insurance and can't afford to ship replacements/rebuild kits over to the UK .

I only put a few miles on it today and after reading other posts with similar symptoms I am a little concerned.

Once again, I appreciate your help,
Thanks guys,
60 Ply

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1960 Plymouth Belvedere 4 door sedan
Stock 60 225
Push button 3 speed Torqueflite
Right Hooker

Oh,

If it helps, the transmission had a tendency to hum or whine when running at certain speeds. The FSM has a whole bunch of problems associated with each of the symptoms, it would be nice to narrow it down a little though.

Thanks again guys,
60 Ply

_________________
1960 Plymouth Belvedere 4 door sedan
Stock 60 225
Push button 3 speed Torqueflite
Right Hooker

When was the last transmission fluid and filter change? Dose it smell burnt, is it dark red?

Clogged filter (if it has one), worn out fluid, and lose bands will cause poor performance. You may want to flush out the transmission cooler lines in the radiator also.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Originally these cars had a fine-mesh metal screen screwed to the underside of the valve body (inside the trans fluid sump). Check if an inline transmission fluid filter is fitted. It was optional equipment until '63. If it's there, it'll be in the form of a canister clipped to the side of the block, at oil sump rail level, below and just ahead of the starting motor. If you find such a filter, it's likely clogged; see here. The next step would be a fluid change and band adjustment, though I fear if the transmission is actually slipping on attempted driveaway, you've probably got a rebuild in your future; restricted fluid path often causes the transmission to drop out of gear (e.g. at tickover) rather than slippage in drive. American Auto Barn (think I've pointed you at them before) can probably help with parts and supplies or pointers to where to go. See also here. You've got Chrysler/Jeep dealers (for the moment) in the UK, so they ought to be able to supply at least the trans sump gasket, though they may have to order it.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the replies. I'll get on the transmission when I get back home, will drop the pan and take a look (have a pan gasket not doing much at the moment).

Assuming the worst, where's the recommended transmission kit to be got from in the States? If I need to pull the trans I really should rebuild it, I could do with getting to know the beast.

Also, how long does a rebuild take to do (I can probably get access to a university bench and a lot of space/tools amnd even the ability to mill the odd surface flat), but only for limited times and periods etc. I know this is a highly variable variable, but a little info would be good to see if I can get the time in uni.

Dan - I have messed you about with not ordering carbs and such like, I owe you an apology and appreciate your continued help and assistance. When I'm back in relaible employment (PHD if I am lucky) I shall be able to honour a few requests I have made.

Thanks a lot guys, I really appreciate your responses.
All the best,
60 Ply

_________________
1960 Plymouth Belvedere 4 door sedan
Stock 60 225
Push button 3 speed Torqueflite
Right Hooker

Hi Guys,

There's a kit on eBay at a reasonable price. I like eBay, it makes it quite easy for me to buy stuff.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TORQUEFL ... ccessories

Anybody had any dealings with these guys (Oregon Performance Transmissions)?

Does anybody recognise the kit at all or if it is any good?

Thanks guys,
60 Ply

_________________
1960 Plymouth Belvedere 4 door sedan
Stock 60 225
Push button 3 speed Torqueflite
Right Hooker

With the distance involved, you want to get your kit from someone who knows each and every difference between the common '66-up TOrqueflites and the early units such as you have — and stocks the correct parts. Get your kit from Pat "Torqueflite Patty" Blais, tflitepatty@verizon.net .

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I second Dan's recommendation of Pat Blais. He ships world wide as well.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Hi Guys,

I've sent Pat Blais an email but had no response today. Just wondering, what sort of price could you guess I'd be looking at? Just need a ball park to see what sort of money I'd have to get together for a rebuild. I know it's not good practice to ask what somone else charges but it'd be helpful, I'm not exactly flush at the moment and it'd be nice to have an estimate.

Thanks a lot guys,
60 Ply

_________________
1960 Plymouth Belvedere 4 door sedan
Stock 60 225
Push button 3 speed Torqueflite
Right Hooker

Aside from an inspection, fluid and filter change you might try a quart of TransX. I normally stay away from additives, but you kind of have nothing to lose at this point, and it may clear things up for some time.

If it works ok you can run it for a few hundred miles and change the fluid again and most likely get some more good miles out of it. If it does not sit for an extended period it will probably keep working at least until you are ready for a real rebuild.

On any automatic, I would go with all new bushings and washers and new steels. It is cheap insurance and will help get the full life out of the rebuild. "Within wear limits" just means it's not all the way worn out yet.