Please, I need help. I am at my mental breaking point. The motor will idle but that is all.
My slant 6 is in a boat, the boat is a model from the very early 1970’s so I believe that the motor is a 1971.
I have owned this boat with a friend for many years and it use to run well. I moved out of town and left the boat…it was starting to lose power so we had it looked at and ultimately the lower end and cylinders rebuilt. I hear it was fine after that, then the boat fell into disuse for a number of years. I rescued the boat and began restoration. That is mostly done. But the motor was not running right. I had the carburetor built because it looked wet with fuel. Still was not running right. I discovered bent push rods, had head rebuilt, and installed by a marina. Got the boat back last week, it idles that is all.
I checked dwell, it is high 30’s, timing was set to 2.5 BTC as per the decal on the valve cover.
So I think it is the carburetor, or the distributor is worn. I am wondering how one knows if the distributor is worn? And where to buy a carburetor (carter 2 barrel). The carburetor has only one vacuum hose that goes to the PCV.

Please any ideas or advice?

Do you have fresh fuel?
Are you running a fuel water separator?

If you have old fuel, there won't be any power or if you have water/moisture in the tanks it will keep the carb from going much above an idle because the water in the float bowl will block the high speed jets.

Click on the red link below my name and take a look at the fuel water separator I am running. I used to be a marine mechanic and this is an all to common problem. I have seen lots of rotted out float bowls from water contamination and corrosion.

Let us know what you find.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

i second the old gas thing, my dart sat for 9 years before i got it with a full tank of gas, pouring smoke and hitting on 3 cyls when we got it, bent pushrods, gummed up lifters, etc..

Thank you for the input.
No fuel separator.
How is fresh fuel defined? It is a couple of years old.
I am pumping the fuel out, can I put in my car to use?
How do I get the fuel out of the bowl?

Also, the PCV valve is broken. Can I plug it until I can get a new one?

Old fuel is anything older than about 6 months. It's now toxic waste not motor fuel. Many municipalities accept household toxic waste for free. A couple years ago they got 12 gallons of very foul smelling fuel from me.

I would get a fuel filter with water separator. The only marine engine I would excuse not having a water separator would be one fed from a small plastic tank normally stored in a garage or weather tight shed.

Taking the carburetor off and inverting it will eliminate the old fuel from the carburetor. I would highly recommend opening the carb and cleaning it out.

Buy a new PCV valve when you're at the parts store buying a fuel/water separator and carburetor overhaul kit.

_________________
Joshua

Do not plug the PCV hole, fresh fuel is no more than 2 months old, 2 years of sitting can turn the gas stale and varnish, replace the fuel or depending on how much is in the tank mix 91 octane in it.

_________________
1973 Plymouth Valiant
1953 Dodge Panel

And when you park this boat for the winter again make sure you use Stabil or some other gas stabilizor in the fuel tank.

Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Got it, I'll get back here some time after the NAPA opens Monday.

For now I am wondering if there is a easy test to check the condition of the distributor.

The first indication of distributor problems is erratic timing and unsteady dwell readings. The dwell meter should give a steady reading with no quiver in the indicator. The timing indicator should be solid in one place and not bouncing up and down. Also check for smooth advance as the engine is revved. Any indication of a sudden jump in timing could indicate a dirty or worn centrifugal advance mechanism.

The main things to wear out are the shaft bushings. You can check the side play with a dial indicator. The '62 FSM indicates repair if the side play exceeds 0.005" Later models might be different. The other issue might be binding of the centrifugal advance mechanism. Be sure everything is clean, lubricated and free of excesive wear. Other than that you could find a shop with a distributor machine to test and possibly repair as needed.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Thanks you for the info. about distrubutors.
When grasping the top of the dist. shaft I can cause it to move from side to side (at least a couple of mm.) Does that tell me anything?

Also,

I drained the tank (took it out). There is a residual 'varnish glaze' on the bottom of the tank.

Probably best not to ignore this varnish...any ideas about its removal/reduction?

Yes, that is alot of slop, your dwell must pretty erratic. That is another reason why there is no power. What ever you do don't trade it in, keep it, and have it rebushed.

On the tank, use Marine Clean, http://www.por15.com/Fuel-System-Restor ... oducts/12/

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Do not buy a parts store "remanufactured" distributor; it will almost certainly be worse that the one you have. Find a reputable rebuilder and have yours repaired properly.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Dan reccomends a place called Old Car Parts Northwest. They have NEW (nos) distributors.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

i emailed them a week ago and havent heard anything, and this just reminded me of that, so i looked up the info for myself and you, going to give them a call monday to try to track down a neutral safety switch, which reminds me i need to check and make sure its not a wire issue before i order anything.
sorry for my late night thoughts and rambling....
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30621

Update; still need help.

Fuel is now fresh, gas tank clean, carb. cleaned out, new pcv valve. The dwell is at 40 and stable.

Motor idles, but when throttle is applied in neutral, at about 1250 rpm the motor starts to shut down like it is being strangled.
But if I apply the manual choke at just the right time the motor will rev. up.
Just a reminder this is a 1971 motor in a small boat, 2 barrell carter carb. and the only vacuum is the pcv at the valve cover.