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 Post subject: hot battery
PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:24 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2008 5:46 am
Posts: 37
Location: Fayetteville, N.C.
Car Model:
I just had my slant rebuilt and been putting it together, and have ran into a few problems but got them all fix. But I have a new one, when I turn the engine over and it starts up the battery get really hot. At one point it started to smoke. It only does it when it runs, also the the enigine ground wire gets really hot. Any Ideas. Its a 1982 Dodge D-150


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 8:15 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
There is a short some where or your alternator is over charging.
What does the amp gauge show?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 9:00 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
It's very possible your starter is bad and is drawing excessive current. Best way to diagnose this is take the truck to a starter/alternator/battery shop and have them check the starter current draw. I'm convinced enough that this is the trouble that I would swap the starter if one were handy.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 9:22 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2008 5:46 am
Posts: 37
Location: Fayetteville, N.C.
Car Model:
The starter is so hot that you can't touch it without burning your finger.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 10:36 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
Sounds like its time for new brushes and maybe a new armature. Take it to your local electrical "Rebuilder" repair shop. They just do alternators and starters.

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Aggressive Ted

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74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 11:01 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
Quote:
The starter is so hot that you can't touch it without burning your finger.
Yikes! If you don't mind the starter sounding Japanese the mini starter as used on just about everything rear drive from 1989 onward is the way to go. I've bought several from wrecking yards over the years and had great luck with them.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 11:58 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2008 5:46 am
Posts: 37
Location: Fayetteville, N.C.
Car Model:
Thanks for the info, I think my strarter is still under its t one year warrenty.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 5:56 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:36 pm
Posts: 2432
Location: East Arkansas
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Bud
A word to the wise. Replace your Battery cables. Esp your ground cable. Clean the area where it bolt onto as well. When it smoked it oxidized. I have had this happen a number of times and change the cable out and voila good as new.
Frank

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 5:57 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5613
Location: Downeast Maine
Car Model:
bud18007,

While you are at it, remake the ground connection from battery to block and make sure it is fastened directly with a bolt that threads into the block, not to a bracket. Clean to bare metal, or place a stared lock washer between the cable and block to make a good electrical connection. This can be a point of high resistance if the connection is not made properly. Remember; Resistance = Heat in Electronville.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 6:26 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Quote:
Thanks for the info, I think my strarter is still under its t one year warrenty.
Ah. Now you see firsthand why I keep saying that "remanufactured" parts like this are trash, not worth messing with.

You can get a brand-new Chrysler starter from Old Car Parts Northwest or you can get a Japanese-made mini starter that'll bolt right on from an '89-'01 Dodge truck or van with 3.9, 5.2, or 5.9 engine.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 10:33 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2008 5:46 am
Posts: 37
Location: Fayetteville, N.C.
Car Model:
Still doing it. I have replaced the alternator, the starter, and the ground cable, nothing seems to be working. The only thing left to do is the battery its self.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 12:05 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2004 10:41 am
Posts: 131
Location: Saratoga Ca
Car Model:
I would check your voltage regulator. I would start by making sure there is a good ground between the case of the voltage regulator and the sheet metal of the body. I would also check the voltage at the battery and the alternator, with the car running and off. My guess is that your battery is getting overcharged, with your car at idle (might have to rev up engine to really see what is happening) you should be between 13.6 and 14.3 volts with your car turned off you should be between about 12.5 and 12.8 volts.
Keep in mind these numbers are not absolutes but is should help you figure out what is going on.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 12:37 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2008 5:46 am
Posts: 37
Location: Fayetteville, N.C.
Car Model:
where would my voltage regulator be located.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 1:14 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
Posts: 1547
Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Depends on the car, and where Chrysler wanted to put it. If it's an early A 66-down, they are usually located on the drivers side of the firewall, in the same area as the master cylinder. Later cars with the solid-state regulators can be anywhere on the firewall. Most of them that I have seen are mounted on the passenger side of the engine compartment, on the firewall, and they are typically a silver colored box with a green, and blue wire coming out of the front.

You do not need to know where the regulator is mounted unless you find voltages outside of the ones specified. 13.8-14.5 is a general use range when the car is running, and battery voltage with the car off should be right around 12.6.

Check these with a DVOM (Multimeter) not a test light. 8)

~THOR~

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 8:53 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2008 9:08 pm
Posts: 58
Location: Stillwater, MN
Car Model: 1986 D100 /6 A833od shortbox
My 86 was doing the same thing about 2 months ago. Replace the Voltage Reg and now everything is fine. Stand in the middle of the grill and look straight back, should be mounted on the firewall directly above you valve cover.

Good luck


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