Holley fuel pump (black) and regulator, 3/8" fuel line.

_________________

That's enough for over 500hp if the pickup is also 3/8".

Since it will free rev, but breaks down under load I still think the ignition is breaking down.

_________________
Joshua

Didn't you rebuild the carb? Anything you changed is the most likely thing to look at. Does Charles have another carb you can bolt on there to see if it runs differently at least? I really like the hly 4412 500CFM 2bbl with an adapter plate you can get at Advance Autos (transdapt or Mr. Gasket).

I have seen too much OR too little timing give these symptoms too.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The last time the carb was rebuilt it was rebuilt by Charles' guy.

I bought a new rotor and distributor cap to put on the car, When I put the new rotor on the car it changed the timing? That is strange...

_________________

Rotor/timing thing could indicate phasing is or was off in distributor?

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

It was off in the distributor...

_________________

So is it running good now???
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

It is running better, but still not right. We are going to tune on it Wed. and then head to Wilksboro on Saturday.

_________________

OK banging my head against the wall. We cannot get the car to start with 30 degrees of total timing we had to put 45 degrees of total timing for the car to start and run. But at 45 the car will not take a load, as soon as it is put into gear it dies. However once we start the car and drop the timing back, to around 30 it will take the load better. Any body got any ideas? Charles Myers has been a tremendous help to me but this has him baffled as well. It seems the more we try the worse it gets. I am looking for anything because at this point I am ready to pull the motor back out of the car.

_________________

When the engine was assembled were the timing marks verified with a degree wheel or piston stop as being accurate?

Have you checked the rotor to cap phasing? You'll have to sacrifice a cap and drill a hole in the top or side so you can see the rotor with a timing light.

Needing extra timing and having it die when in gear sounds like a vacuum leak or a cam timing problem. What's the cranking compression?

_________________
Joshua

The timing mark was initially set with a degree wheel. We changed the balancer to an SFI balancer and rechecked TDC with a piston stop.

We have not checked the rotor to cap phasing, have not thought about it. This was the same distributor that was in my other motor that ran well and have not done anything but take it out of one motor and put it in another.

We have checked for vacuum leaks and cannot find any. We were potentially thinking it could be a cam timing problem, but it was degreed in with a degree wheel per the cam card from Erson. Unless we needed to do something different than what the cam card said. Anyone else using a .510 lift cam from Erson?

_________________

13.1 compression? what kind of fuel are you useing?

112 octane

_________________

Can you check the cranking compression?

_________________
Joshua

We checked it. I am not sure what it was because I was in the car, turning it over. Mr. Charles and my Dad were looking at it and said it was fine.

_________________