I drive in stop and go LA Traffic for 2 hours everyday. My car runs a little hot. 205 F. I presentaly use 20w-50 of whatever is on sale and either a purolator or Bosch filter.

I stubled across bobistheoilguy.com and realised I am probably not doing/using the right thing when it comes to my oil.

What do you all use in your slant six?

I have a stock 70 Swinger with a 225, only uprade is electronic ignition and better coil.

Thanks.

_________________
My Swinger gets the Highlight Valet Parking spot over the German sports cars on the Sunset Strip. I love my Mopar.

15W-40 summer and 10W-30 winter.

_________________
Sorry, my english is not very good

Oh Yeah, The coldest it gets here all year is maybe a few nights below
50 F, usually between 60-90 F, 2 months of the year it is over 95 F, but no consistent.

_________________
My Swinger gets the Highlight Valet Parking spot over the German sports cars on the Sunset Strip. I love my Mopar.

I stay away from multi-viscosity oils. As I understand it (this is just me), the oil flows at the lower number and its what the oil is based on. The higher number is obtained by using additives. I use a straight 40WT oil, usually Valvoline (or Napa brand, made by same people) with a Napa Gold filter. I stay away from the Pennsylvania crude stuff (Pennsoil, Quakerstate). The wax's really gum up engines (at least from what I have seen).

I use 10w-30 Quaker State in everything. 10w -30 means it flows like a 10 weight oil when it is cold, and a 30 weight oil when it is hot. As far as a oil base stock being good or bad, that has not been an issue for many years. Just look on the container for the API "starburst" and use an oil with the API service spec. "SL". Syntetic oils do have some advantages, but my personal opinion, if you do not require the use of these oils they are not worth the premium price.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Also in LA, used to run valvoline 20/50 until 3 years ago and switched to valvoline 10/40. Will only use Phram PH8A. Have no tempature issues, matter of fact temps dropped a couple of degrees with the switch.

I bought a k&n oil filter, was more pricy, like $10.99 because it had a check valve so oil wouldn't drain back into the motor when engine shut off. Never got a chance to put it in before I tore my engine apart so I couldn't tell you how well it works, but seems promising.

I'll be using Mobil One with the turbo just to play it safe. Also a Fram PH977A. This filter is about one third again as big as the PH8A and allows for about an extra 1/2 quart of oil. This was a tip DD placed in the old "Slant Six News" about 15 years ago. (And he still keeps those tips coming!)
Bob D

Dave, maybe the quality of oil you use now, is better than before and thats why temperatures went lower.
Multi-viscosity oil means that lower first number is pumpable in lower temperatures. Examble 10w-40, 10w means that this oil pumps
-30 degrees celcius. 20w-40, 20w means that this oil pumps -20 degrees celcius. so smaller first number flows better when engine is cold, but if temperatures are normally over 50F 20w is no problem

Higher number is viscosity in 100 degrees celcius. Bigger number is higher viscosity in 100 degrees.

I forget to say that I use diesel-engine oil. It has little better lubrication and it is little washable oil, so it keeps engine oil system cleaner.

_________________
Sorry, my english is not very good

I'm pretty sure that the Fram filters also have check valves.
Bob D

Even the cheap <$5 ones? I didn't see that advertised on the box, I figured if it had it it would be on the box...

Reason I stay with valvoline was a incident that occured in my disco days with my 77 Cordoba, Had obstruction in radiator which cut circulation to nothing in the middle of the desert 3 hrs from home in summer. Temp gauge pegged PAST the max zone and despite having to stop every 5 miles to cool and no power beyond 35 mph. Sent sample to lab I worked at and did show some breakdown, but not enough to cause complete loss of lubricating properties. By the way the doba had a slant.

Pierre,
I remember reading an article quite a while back (it might have even been in the "Slant Six News") where they investigated which filters had check valves. Most did, and I'm almost positive Fram was one of them. I can tell you that my filters are always full of oil when I remove them. I would also think that the dip stick would always read over full if the oil was draining from the filter and you were using the recommended 5 quarts with a filter change.
Bob D

Thanks every body.

You all should check out bobistheoilguy.com

The people on that sight are fanatical about their oil and filters. If not using premo filter from Wix or AC, or K&N in combination with Schaeffer's oil, you might as well take a shotgun to your engine in their opinion.

I think I will run 10w40 Mobil 1 or Schaeffers Moly blend (about same price) and a Motorcraft (aftermarket is made by Purolator and is 3 bucks cheaper) oil filter.

I also am going to run this stuff I see be touted calle autorx. Supposed to be the new miracle snake oil. I am a sucker for marketing.

_________________
My Swinger gets the Highlight Valet Parking spot over the German sports cars on the Sunset Strip. I love my Mopar.

I run 10W-30 and a Napa Gold filter on my 76 Feather Duster, my 74 is a mighty loose road oiling machine so it gets the bargain basement filter and 10W-30 with a moly additive that my grandfather left me...


-D.Idiot