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 Post subject: heat riser
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:36 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Aug 15, 2009 5:48 am
Posts: 17
Car Model:
anyone remove the heat riser in the exhaust manifold? i have the urge to yank mine out.


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 Post subject: Yep...
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:46 pm 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
Car Model:
I've done that...torch the weld or tab on the flap, use hammer and punch and it all comes out... insert 1 long bolt through both holes, or two small
bolts with nuts...Flap helps if your temps reach 40-50 degrees or under...if you do have 'balmy' conditions make sure you rev for a bit longer and don't complain if you use more gas until the choke pulls off properly.

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 7:30 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
If you don't want it functional, you're better off leaving it in the hot position (no flow to under carb)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 9:37 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
Yes, I did it to mine. Plugged the holes with bolts. One of the most pleasant results to a better running engine. No more blown manifold gaskets (I ported my exhaust manifold allot). I have a aluminum single barrel manifold that heats up very quick. Plug color is perfect from #1 through to #6. I have a few plug pictures posted on the red link below my name.

It warms up super quick with no fade when I step on it especially during 10 to 15 degree temps in the winter. I do run the stock hot air vent into the carb. I am sure the heat deflector under the carb helps warm it up when it gets super cold. I am usually up to 50 mph up a grade 3 blocks (1/2 mile) from the house. I have run with out it for three pretty cold winters now.

I live in the foothills of Puget Sound near Mt. Rainer.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:17 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Aug 15, 2009 5:48 am
Posts: 17
Car Model:
mine likes to stick and im not sure if this is the way they are made to work or not, but it only opens upon accelerating, when you hold the same speed it closes back up to heat the carb. why do i want to be heating the carb while cruising. would be cool to put it on a cable.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 3:59 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 10:50 am
Posts: 660
Location: Stevensville, ON
Car Model:
You want intake manifold heat because vaporizing gasoline produces a cooling effect on the intake manifold. A hot spot under the carb vaporizes any droplets of gasoline that fall out of the airstream and hit the manifold floor.

If you need a cold intake manifold (like if you're a drag racer), fix the flapper in the hot position to minimize turbulence in the exhaust manifold. Daily drivers run better with a properly functioning (ie, automatic) manifold heat control system.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 7:16 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Aug 15, 2009 5:48 am
Posts: 17
Car Model:
makes sense i guess... im just used to ripping that sort of stuff out, and or running headers and big pipes. i never really had the urge to play with a 6 till now.


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