So I'm puttin my slant back together and need your opinions on what oil pump and timing chain set to use. The motor is stock with the only upgrades I'll do will be headers or the dutra duals and maybe a two one bbl mani. So should I just get the stock stuff or get a double roller set and a high flow pump? Where is the best place to order from, local part store or other?

Thanks

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Kustom because stock sucks!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3295246

If you are keeping the motor mostly stock, then I would suggest you do several things:

(1) get a post 68 head with the revised combustion chamber (post 72 will have hardened exhaust seats)

(2) upgrade to at least the 72-up stock cam, if not something a bit better (See the Erson thread for recommended profiles). Reground cams are a good budget option.

(3) stick with a single exhaust manifold but get 2 1/4 inch pipe all the way back.

(4) measure and mill the head to get a better dynamic compression ratio.

In a mild street motor, these steps will really wake up the engine, even if you keep the stock one barrel carb, while keeping cost down.

Keep the stock oil pump but clean the pressure relief valve as per Docs instructions.

Use the stock single chain timing set but degree it when it is installed to ensure accuracy.

Napa is a good place for parts but be sure to get a decent brand (get the top shelf items, not the cheap options).

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

'67 and later heads have the revised combustion chamber, and it's a very small revision, not worth ditching a '66 or earlier head to find (buy, ship, etc.) a '67-up head for a stock or near-stock rebuild, IMO. And factory-hardened seats are irrelevant at this late date; it is very false economy to rebuild a cylinder head without having hard exhaust seat inserts installed.
'71-'80 is the cam you have in mind, but there are better (newer) grinds available now. The Erson deal is indeed a good place to look for info on grinds.
Nothing wrong with 2¼" all the way back, but stepping down in pipe diameter after the muffler doesn't materially affect flow capacity and keeps the system quieter.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for the input fellas! I probably should have stated that the motor is out of a 76' Valiant and has not been rebuilt. Its a good running motor and I'm just replacing all the basics before I drop it in my fish. As for the exhaust, I like my cars loud and I'm not wanting the duals for the performance but for show. My 66' Barracuda now has 64' - 65' tails on it and I'm planning on having the duals exit through what use to be the reverse light. The reason I'm doing this is because it will look cool and I'm going to have this thing sitting low and I don't want the pipes smashed.
Thanks again for your input.

_________________
Kustom because stock sucks!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3295246

Ah. In that case, keep the head and cam you have. Cheap out and keep the stock timing chain and oil pump but freshen up the pressure valve.

One thing to remember is that the 66 Barracuda sat low to begin with. I know, I used to own a 66 Barracuda Formula S. People who keep their cars at the stock ride height already have clearance problems running an exhaust line down the passenger side, especially where the pipe has to go over the transmission crossmember. You used to be able to buy crossmembers which had been modified specifically to accommodate an exhaust pipe on the passenger side. You will likely want to track down one of those or get yours modified.

Since you plan on replacing the suspension to drop the car almost to the ground, you might want to consider keeping the stock exhaust line as the driver's side exhaust pipe and then having a exhaust line of the same diameter installed for the passenger side which attaches to the front exhaust manifold (assuming you go with Dutras). The stock exhaust pipe diameter was somewhere around 1 7/8 or 1 13/16 (I can't remember which). If you are dropping your car then every little 1/2 inch of clearance helps. You say you like your car loud, so just run 1 7/8 straight pipe on each side, no muffler.

I can't say I am too crazy about your exhaust idea. I think you run a serious risk of leaking exhaust back into the passenger compartment, especially if the car is lowered and the exhaust pipes are scraping over bumps. One good collision with a rock or speed bump could break the pipe loose from the taillight fitting (I am assuming you aren't going to attach the pipe directly to the taillight housing).

Frankly, I think you are going through a lot of work and expense for a result you really won't be happy with in a daily driver. If you are building a show car that will be trailered, then do whatever you want, but if you are building a car you will actually drive everyday then I would highly recommend you keep the stock suspension and go with a more durable and safe exhaust system. But, to each their own. it's your car and your money.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

A big +1 to this. And that's to say nothing of lesser consequences like melted taillamps

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Trailered. . . . Whats that? Anyways, no the exhaust will not be attached to the housing and will be suspended by a rubber hanger. I will have a small heat shield separating the exhaust from the housing. As for the suspension, eventually it will have air ride. I think if I keep the section of exhaust that will be routed through the trunk one piece from where it enters the trunk to where it exits, it will keep the leaking to a minimum. If it doesn't work then oh well I'll do somthin different.

WOW! This post got off topic in a hurry.

Well, thanks again for your input and if you are interested I will post some current photos in the gallery when I get it back on the road.

_________________
Kustom because stock sucks!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3295246