No, I don't believe snow was sucked into the blower, I thought that was a possibility but its been sitting in a heated shop for over a week and everything has long been melted. I was talking to my local mechanic about it and he thinks it sounds like the heater resistor. He said GM products will work on high when the resistor is bad but Chrysler nothing will work because of some thermal something or other. So, does anyone know where the heater resistor is in an f-body Volare/Aspen?

Hi plymouthhillsidehemi225. According to the manual for 1978, the resistor block is bolted to the rear face of the heater unit housing, and should be accessible from inside the car on the passenger side without the need to unbolt a whole lot of stuff, but possibly the panel under the dashboard. What year is your car? I have manuals for '78 and '79, I can scan some pages and email you if you like. Olaf

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Aspenized

Howdy olafla, now that my whole dash is tore apart, (I found the resistor through trial and error ) I pulled the resistor out and I can not see that there is anything wrong with it? The ground going directly to the blower motor is also good. When a heater blower motor resistor goes bad does it melt any of the thin coiled wires? The one I pulled out, all the wires are intact and I can't see anything wrong with it by looking at it... I'm starting to get kind of frazzled :shrug: Thanks for your help!

Today I tried using a jumper wire to cross from the one plug in to the other to bypass the resistor and I got nothing... Which leads me to believe the resistor is still good. What else could possibly be the problem? I can not disassemble my dash any further to see exactly where every wire is coming from, and I have no clue what else could be the problem. Does anyone have experience in this field?

Could it be that the blower motor has had a serious attack of corrosion? When thawing out, the moisture could have played havoc with the fan motor's internals, can you turn it without scraping sounds? How about power directly from the battery, does it turn?
By the way, you have a good chance to rust-proof the areas around the two air intakes and the water drains. Now that your heater is out, you can reach areas that normally cannot be reached by others than a 4 inch tall midget. If you don't already have leaks, you have a unique opportunity to prevent them. I know, I had to weld in a new floor on the passenger side!
Olaf

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Aspenized

Nope, the blower is good. I pulled it out and hooked it directly to a battery and it spun just fine.

Hmm, afraid you just have to test every single connection, starting at the blower leads and working back toward the switch and further on towards fuses and the power source. Use a test light of some kind, and check the ground cable connections, they are often rusty and not leading very good. You need any wiring diagrams, if so what year is your car?
Olaf.

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Aspenized

I can't get any power at the blower switch or the resistor itself, and judging by the wiring diagram my mechanic gave me the power has to go through the pushbutton selector before the resistor and switch... has anyone had to replace one of these before? (new ones are 96 bucks at carquest)

Hi again, I'm gonna scan all the '78 factory wiring diagrams + AC/heater manual for you, I'll send you a pm tomorrow. Have you removed and/or replaced fuse #8 - lower row, second from left - 20 Amp for blower or 30 Amp for AC - and checked for corroded connections? Does the test light come on when measuring between ground and the fuse - tested from both sides of the fuse? You have scrapped the AC, could there be some loose connection somewhere?
Olaf

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Aspenized

Yes, I have replaced that fuse, it does not appear to be corroded at all, and I have tested both ends of the fuse and I do have power. I did scrap the A/C so I might have to check that for loose connections... Thank you Olaf very much for your help!