Im trying to set the timing on my /6, but having trouble rotating the engine. I've taken the spark plugs out but cannot turn the crankshaft, there isnt any bolt down there to turn with socket wrench and do not think it is threaded. Any suggestions/links?

Its 1974 dodge stepside w/AT and single barrel carb. SOrry if others have posted this already. I have been reading about setting the timing and not sure what to disconnect (vacuum advance)? Sorry Im a noob....

The reason I would like to set the timing is that it seems to have a loss of power, idles fine but no power.

It is posible that there is a bolt in the end of the crankshaft snout, in the middle of the lower pulley. But it is also possible that the bolt is not there. More slants were not sold with the bolt than were. You can use the crank bolt that came on V-8 engines or you can buy a new bolt and washer. It's a 3/4 x 16 threads per inch bolt.

While you are in there, it is worth your while to double check that your vibration dampener hasn't slipped. To check if your timing mark has slipped on the vibration dampener:

(1) Pull the # 1 plug

(2) Rotate the engine until the timing mark is about 30 degrees BTDC

(3) Put the piston stop in the plug hole

(4) Slowly rotate the motor by hand, clockwise, until the motor won't turn.

(5) Mark TDC on the dampener. I suggest using a small piece of tape with the inside edge (the edge on the right) lining up with TDC. This is more acccurate than a dab of paint or white-out

(6) Now rotate the motor by hand counter clockwise until it stops.

(7) Mark TDC on the dampener again, but this time put the LEFT side of the tape on the TDC mark.

(8 ) Remove the piston stop.

(9) Look at your dampener. Ideally, the factory timing mark will be dead center between the two tape marks. However, at this late date, chances are the timing mark has slipped.

(10) using a measuring tape or a simple piece of string, measure the distance between the inside edges of the tape and divide by two. If you are using a piece of string, put one end of the string on one of the inside edge of the tapes and sut the string to match the other inside edge. now fold it in half. In either method, the point is to find the exact center between the two tapes. This is your true TDC.

(11) Using as fine a paintbrush as you can, or a chisel or some other indelible marking method, mark the midpoint between the two tapes. You want this to be permanent and accurate since this will be you new timing mark.

(12) For giggles, line up your new timing mark with the 0 degree mark on your timing tab and see where the old mark lines up. This is how many degrees your dampener has slipped!

Thanks for the detailed instructions. Can I buy the bolt at Pep Boys or Auto Zone? Or would it be any hardware store? Do you know the length?

You should be able to get one at any decent hardware store. Make sure it is a grade 8 bolt, and make sure you have a large fender washer for it. I suspect that a bolt with a 1.5-2 inch shank would be sufficient. If you have a junkyard near you, you could easily get the crank bolt out of any v-8 crankshaft.

You should be able to purchase a piston stop tool at large auto parts store or online from summit or jegs.

THanks, I will look into this weekend.

You can also put a couple of bolts in the holes on the face of the harmonic balancer. Then use a decent sized screwdriver to put between them and turn the motor.

This is how i've done it, it works well!
The single bolt wants to unscrew when you turn the crank in reverse!

_________________
Jim

1964 DART G.T. 225
2008 JEEP WRANGLER UNLIMITED
1950 SCHWINN PHANTOM

I had to find #1 TDC before and I was away from my garage with limited tools and it was on my D150 so it is hard to bump the motor with the solenoid because you can't also watch the damper or see in the oil hole to watch the rockers go up & down from all the way over there.

Even with the plugs in it is not too hard to turn the motor using the fan for leverage. Of course this only works if you have a solid fan and I wouldn't recommend putting much stress on the fan, but if you lean on the belt a little to get it really tight the fan blades give you tons of leverage to use the belt to spin the crank. If you are doing this with the plugs in make sure the battery is disconnected so the fan can't take your hand, and go slow to let compression bleed off.

With the plugs out this is super easy and I have done it being lazy so I didn't have to find my big socket for the crank bolt.

Kevin

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madam im adam

I checked alot of local hardware stores, home depot eventually bought it online and got killed for shipping. Anyway, so I found TDC by using a bent hanger and hand cranking it(then realised there is actually a notch on the shaft).

The truck seems to run fine somewhere between 30 & 40* btdc. I did set it to about 4-7* btdc like all suggested on forums and in books and it idles fine but then when I put it in gear it bogs. Im thinking of trying to set it back to between 30 & 40* btdc. What is the best way to do this?

There is one problem, the bolt that locks in the dizzy only allows about 5-10 degrees rotation, so I'd like to find out the easiest way to set it. Im thinking of taking the mounting plate off and finding the right timing then the problem is trying to take it out bolt the plate on and put it back the same way I took it out. Any suggestions?

Yes, there is another bolt under the distributor that attaches to the hold down plate. It is also slotted so you can get more travel.......to dial it in.

On your timing...check it with the vacuum advance unplugged. So your not looking at total timing.
You should check initial on a 74 at 750 rpms per the fender tag and book. If you still have all the smog gear on it, your suppose to be a zero degrees. I live in an area that doesn't require emissions testing so the EGR has been removed and I set mine at 10 degrees initial which results in allot more snap, punch and overall power & mileage.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

So unplug the tube from the distributor end and tape off the end on the dist? No smog needed for my year.

When setting it at TDC I have been cranking it until i get the harmonic balancer and damper to line up. Am I supposed to remove the valve cover to make sure it is on the combustion stroke (#1 valves closed)?

No. Don't plug the distributor, plug the hose.
Wouldn't hurt. I think there is a chance of being 180 degrees out otherwise.

Thanks, disconnecting and plugging the tube helped alot. I set it to about 12* btdc, then when it's all setup the total timing is around 20 something degrees.

Now it starts instantly, within a second of cranking it and doesnt seem to be dieseling anymore but still seems to have a bit of power lag (which is why I wanted to do this in the first place) when you hit the gas.

Any thoughts on that? its a 74 slant 6 225, single bbl carb with flow master exhaust.

I have a few of thoughts on that.

1. Is the vacuum and mechanical advance working correctly? I think your total advance should be more than 20 degrees.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... &highlight

2. How's the carburetor? Could be accelerator the pump or choke not adjusted correctly or stuck. Maybe go through all the carburetor adjustments. Check here for good carburetor information.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33102

3. Check the valve lash. It needs periodic adjustment. The procedure is here.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... ght=#72139

4. Also, maybe just a good tune-up.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... ht=#138010