Okeh, I definitely agree with you that going behind the scenes and seeing that a product is manufactured in a high-quality manner backed up with high-quality research makes me more confident in the product and more likely to use and recommend it, but without quantitative data there's no sound basis to say how much better (if at all) RP is than M1 or any other product.
That's a good start. Can you tell us more about the tests you saw?
Yup, I think that might be a local-product effect; the stuff is not so easy to find most places I've lived.
Paid sponsorship is a real obstacle when one is looking for objective test results. Even if we assume the best of intent from all involved parties, there's just too much opportunity for the test results to be a product of the sponsorship.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If the cam's been installed for a year, there's no point in worrying about break-in at this point -- it's long past done. If the cam's been on the shelf for a year and you've yet to install it, then pick your break-in procedure to minimize the likelihood of premature cam lobe wear. Smear plenty of EP break-in lube grease on each lobe prior to installing the cam.
Depends whom you ask, but if proper assembly practice is followed, IMO No.
"Name brand" means "name brand". It doesn't refer to how many quarts are in a case.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

haha Amsoil FTW. GO 12000 miles without an oil change All makes and Models

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What's that fuzzy blue thing being hurled this way?
::stick::
BOOSH!!!

Enough to be confident in my advice. I will not list them make by make and model by model here, but I am not among those who give advice without having developed it through personal experience.
Your assumption about my experience is your assumption about my experience.

Repeating the misunderstandings about the reduction of ZDDP, even in greater detail, does not make it true. But the advice to spend time on BITOG is good. One can learn a great deal by perusing the used-oil analyses (UOA) of various oils used in engines with flat tappets. A very (delightfully obsessively!) detailed paper on the subject of new oils in old engines is here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You misspelled "Scamsoil"!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

That article is a good read.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

In answer to the original post again.

I have run in plenty of cams without EOS or any other additive. I always used moly lube on the cam and lifters.

As the engines I was working with became more expensive and much harder to get to the cam, I began always using EOS for cam break in.

I have never had an early cam failure on an engine I put together. I have seen several though.

With the low lift and spring rates on a slant, it is not much of an issue, just a little cheap insurance.

I would not use 5-anything conventional oil for the first start up.

Keep in mind synthetic film strengths do not apply to conventional oil.

I was hoping Dan would have a history of at least one engine to base this on. The rest of us are just flirting with disaster without a single failure related to oil choice in all these years? This is not the type of reasoning Dan is trying to label it as, it is along the lines of scientific method. Dan, you are coming back with "if you this, then you that" political style BS.

We have not just gotten away with something by dumb luck as you assert, we have been folowing a proven and sound method.


This is just so simple. By the way, my 07 honda gets 5-20 wt oil in all weather. You should see the clearance specs in the factory manual.

Satirical Department:

Ceej:
[quote]4. Then I go to 10w30 straight dinosaur for a full cycle. 3K max.[/quote]

Hummm, So Ceej, do you recommend the carnivoreious, herbivore, or omnivore based [url=http://www.sinclairoil.com/] Sinclair[/url] oil?

Oh, omnivore would be more like a synthetic blend I would guess.


Slantsix dan:

[quote]Rustyfords:
[quote]a senior guy at Royal Purple and asked me if I cared to bring my advanced chem students over to the plant in Humble, TX, for a tour. Of course I took him up on it....and wow....it was eye-opening.

To make a long story not so long, I discovered that RP is a serious lubricant that few, if any, of the other oils (synthetic or otherwise) can stack up to.

I can go into a long list of the reasons that caused me to come to this conclusion[/quote]


Please do. It'll need to include performance-based data from comparisons to other, more readily-available competing products such as Mobil-1. I have no reason to doubt that Royal Purple is a very fine engine oil, but I also have no reason to believe it's significantly (i.e., really) or substantially (i.e., largely) better than Mobil-1, which I can walk in and get from any parts store.[/quote]


Gee, I’d fully expect to find Mobil 1 out performing Royal Purple while visiting RP’s facilities… NOT!

Kind of like Al Gore purchasing a multi million dollar beachfront property because the ocean was due to rise in the next quarter century… Oh crap, he did…

Anyone remember twenty years ago or so [url=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide] Molybdenum Disulfide[/url] was the oil additive of the day? That stuff was jet black, and not unlike graphite. There is nothing like dumping a quart of mineral slurry into the old crank case.


SSDan:

[quote]Rustyfords:
[quote]It may be my proximity to Humble, TX, but I can walk into any Houston area NAPA and find any RP product, from the various oils to the misc greases that they make.[/quote]

Yup, I think that might be a local-product effect; the stuff is not so easy to find most places I've lived.[/quote]

Dan you got to quit “Canadian Tireâ€￾, cause NAPA over the river in Calais, Me., Gateway to St. Stephen, NB, located on the banks of the St. Croix, has a shelf full of the over priced stuff, and we are only wee bit east of Humble.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Read what I wrote, not what you want me to have written.
Read what I wrote, not what you want me to have written.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan, you should go back and read it yourself. I really don't care enough to "want" what you say to be this or that, it just is what it is. That is a very childish argument and it assumes that you are the center of everything, which is not my perspective.

It amazes me how a guy looking for some simple advice turns to this sort of nonsense.

You present your dogma, and then get closed mouth about what your conclusions are based on. Why are you so above answering a direct question about such a simple matter? Could it be you are recommending something you have never tried? Cause thats how it looks to me (everyone else can draw their own conclusions). It would be so simple, although not condescending, to answer, "I ran in my last build up with 5-20wt castrol and everything went great". If that was really the case. And who cares if it was a v-8 with a flat tappet, my last build was.

It would be as though people were posting to help each other and share real information that works based on experience.


The only conclusion I can draw, and it seems very obvious, is that you have never run in a new engine with 5-20 conventional oil. I don't think it is a good idea to even bother trying, there is nothing to gain. This does not stop you from advising others to so with their pride and joy? Try it on your new engine and then tell everyone about it, that would be helpfull.

Uh, yeah, in case I wrote that part about go-ahead-and-use-30wt-if-you-wanna-it-won't-ruin-anything while my brain was unplugged.

Y'wanna read about the break-in oil I used on the slant-6s, the 318, the Chev 305, the various Briggs and Strattons and so forth? Tough poo. Don't believe me? Okeh, that's your choice. My track record of advice quality speaks for itself. Wanna amuse yourself with ignorant guesses and assumptions about me? Knock y'self out, dude.

User AnotherSix is <IGNORED>

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

what does kevin johnson use or recommend for engine break in oil ?

LMFAO What ever oil it is you can bet that it wont wipe out the doubled holed distributor gear on break in. LOL

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Thanks Mike

Wow, Amsoil is yet again under the bus. But in all of this your link you shared is the best. I can quote

"So what is my bottom line recommendation in xW-50 oils? Of all the specs I could find (in a reasonable amount of time), there are only two oils in this group with excellent pumpability, and excellent high temperature protection. Amsoil’s 20W-50 is the only one of these that also shows excellent shear strength, and tops it off as a CI-4/SL. It might not be the best option for catalytic converters because of the phosphorous content, but based on available data from this selection, it would be at the top of my list. I would use this in any engine where 5W-50, 10W-50 or 20W-50 is recommended"

Thanks for another good read and www.bobistheoilguy.com works for me also.
Later
Ryan

Amsoil Direct Jobber

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Wow....like I said initially....getting into motor oil with people is like talking religion. Sheesh!

wjajr...the sarcasm really wasn't necessary. I don't give a horse's patootie if you or anyone else, likes or ever uses Royal Purple.....don't care....not one whit. As I said from the outset, I just had a neato firsthand experience that I thought yall might enjoy hearing about.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


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