I think amsoil is on par with any other synthetic. 25k without an oil change is just a bit far fetched to me. Maybe the oil can handle it. Maybe it cant. But I'm not for leaving the filter on the car that long.

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What's that fuzzy blue thing being hurled this way?
::stick::
BOOSH!!!

Rustyfords:

[quote]wjajr...the sarcasm really wasn't necessary. I don't give a horse's patootie if you or anyone else, likes or ever uses Royal Purple.....don't care....not one whit. As I said from the outset, I just had a neato firsthand experience that I thought yall might enjoy hearing about.[/quote]

You had a great experience. Not arguing the social aspects of hob-knobbing with the white coats. What one has to know is, you were treated to a live, scripted, infomercial from start to finish.

I’m also not saying the product is junk. I did say it was over priced, and it is for 99% of the folks using it. For the one percent that really needs a supposedly over engineered product, great.

When you go on a field trip to Exxon-Mobile, Amsoil, Quaker State, or Sinclair "the dino lube" people, I would fully expect that each one of these companies would couch their product as best over the other guys, in some way, all day long with piles of print-outs to back the claims up. Why do you think these corporations have hundreds of marketing guys employed; to tell the world their product is crap?

Come on.

All these companies will present their product in such a way that the number’s won’t be lying. Whatever the narrow scenario in which they choose to present their product may or may not be relevant to real world use.

You are in the class room everyday, ever read something that you had a good solid knowledge base of, and immediately detect a bit of stretching of the facts in the details?

Ever have some of these snake oil guys make a sales call on you. I can tell you it is often quite a show. All the in-house data may or may not be any good. What one should do, is be scrutinizing an objective third party analysis of these products, where all of them are subjected to the same testing procedure before getting all excited.

I can’t help but have a jaundiced eye when visiting corporate headquarters, or when reading their annual report to the stock holders. I call it “Playhouse 90â€￾.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

It is my opinion that we should all get off this slippery (well oiled) slope and forget this petty arguing.
We are here to help the others with their projects and enjoy this forum.

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

All the poor guy asked was what kind of break in oil to use. All real carguys know that you don't discuss politics, religion, oil, Or lean on somebody's ride.
gee!
max

mix 80w-90 gear oil 50/50 mix with 10w-40, wipe all cam ,lifter, timing gears, bearing surfaces with mixture, then fill base with 10w-40, run cam in for 20 minutes, change oil/filter and go race, works everytime.

Does anyone know what happens on the factory floor these days? In the Nissan factory in Tenn. where my '07 Frontier was built, did they drain the oil after starting up the engine for the first time to remove the assembly lube? Did the dealer do it post delivery? How do they support their 60 K km or 100 k km warranties?

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Cheers!
Al T

The new rigs don't have flat tappet cams. They don't need the cam run in.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I've assisted with a few engine builds, and can only relate to you what I saw....and FWIW, every one of the engines did very well in the long term.

Two of the engines were small block Chevys and the other was a 302 Ford. The initial/break-in oil used was Castrol 10W30 which was changed between 300 and 500 miles, then changed again around 1200 miles.

I seem to remember using a "break-in additive" on the second 350, but I can't remember what it was.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

Guys if you can't quit pissing on each others boots I am going to ask for this topic to get locked, this is retarded. Wanna know why young guys like me get disgusted with the hobby, its becasue of STUPID arguments. I asked a simple question, in a effort to help me break in my motor, I don't have loads of cash, even if I did I would do my own work. I love turning wrenchs, its what I do in the NAVY, so please lets stay on topic. All i want to know is ......

What to use to break in the cam and motor properly

Proper break in procedure

and what oils to use

Terry i would like to know more about your break in "mix 80w-90 gear oil 50/50 mix with 10w-40, wipe all cam ,lifter, timing gears, bearing surfaces with mixture, then fill base with 10w-40, run cam in for 20 minutes, change oil/filter and go race, works everytime"

So from what I have read.....

EOS isn't essential

pack the oil pump with vaseoline, shoul i also pack the pick up as well ??

break in cam for 20mins drain oil (conventional 10W30) , but do I replace the filter as well ??

fill with conventional oil (10W-30), drive gently for the first 500 miles then drain and fill again do I replace the filter ??

drive for 3,000mi's then change and fill with what ever i want,

am I wrong in any of my steps ??

SSdan I ment is store brand oil any different quality then the name brand oils ?? (speaking conventional oil only)

Thanks guys and please lets be civil about this, I really want to learn the right way for advice from people that have been there and done that, not by wipping cam lobes and bearings on startup,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Your method ought to work just fine.

Filter at every change, and your golden!



CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

My bad....and you're right.

Sorry for getting into that mix to the small extent that I did. Hopefully my limited experience with engine break-in fluids was of some help.

_________________
1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

As Ceej says, filter changes, look at what you drained for any sparkles or flecks...just in case. I drain after break in, then after 500 miles, I drive it "conservatively" for the first 500 miles, but for the first 100 of that I try to drive in varied locales so I just don't take a 500 mile trip at one speed/rpm..and not 100% start stop traffic either...When breaking in I usually break in at 2000 rpm for 10 minutes of that, then modulate the throttle for the next 10 minutes back and forth every 30 seconds (+/-)
from 1500 to 3000 to throw the oil a bit differently in the engine.


I use a bottle of Comp Cam's or similar brand of "secret sauce" for my break in, some do some don't, I do since I've used comp cams, and I did it with my Erson with no ill effects, I use a moly style assembly lube like Crane cams used to carry. I pack the pump rotor assembly with vaseline or assembly lube...not the pick up...this is like priming the pump and allows the clearances to be sealed to expedite the pump to start pumping oil...it takes a bit longer if you don't pack the pump for it to prime up if using straight oil sometimes (you can roll the engine over using the starter to try and get it primed sometimes...if no success you can also try backfeeding the pump...but packing it is good insurance).

I use 10-W30, it's what my uncles and grandfather used in their mopar builds, never failed me yet rebuilding or daily driving for the last 24 years...I use Wix filters, and usually stay with Chevron/Valvoline (my local store carries a "store brand" that is actually Valvoline in a rebranded bottle for 20 cents less a quart), I usually buy a case on sale or at Costco for a good price.

Time to quit arguing, stop typing, get out there and get that sucker run in!



-D.Idiot

I have been told by a few reputable engine builders to buy either cam lube or additive. I went w Lucas cam lube for preassembly.

,Cliff

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'72 4 dr Dart
'63 4 dr Dart

LOVE IT when you quit arguing, that isn't what this forum was set up for.

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

A couple of more details that should not be subject to political, social or philosophical debate, or be generally offensive ( at least thats my opinion!) And which I have, just to be clear, used many times with 100% success.

Running a new engine and cam in for 20 minutes above 2000 rpm can really get the motor hot, especially if the timing is off. Try just doing 5 minutes or so, shutting it down and checking things while it cools a bit. Then repeat this until you have enough time on it.

After this and the first oil and filter change go easy on it for the first hour, but after that short bursts of heavy throttle for a few seconds are fine and seem to help set the rings. The cylinder pressure actually pushes the rings out against the cylinder bore. Just give it 5 minutes or so of easy driving between bursts to let any hot spots cool. Too much babying on a re-ring job seems to prevent good ring sealing in the long run.

Don't do anything you are not comfortable with, just dig up more facts until you are ready to proceed. It is your hard work and money.