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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 1:40 pm 
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I can't imagine why not, but I also don't know what undercar differences there might be in the later Argentinian cars that might require some modification for the connectors to fit. Since the ones you link can (IINM) successfully be used in North American '63-'76 111"-wheelbase A-bodies, you ought to be just fine.

Me, I think these are probably the nicest ones I've seen. MUCH more disruptive to install than a bolt-in, though!

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 Post subject: frame connectors
PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 2:13 pm 
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Location: Midland TX
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Did a lot of searching in the past ,never found bolt in connectors for a 1964 a body. maybe things have changed since then and somebody makes them now.
Anyone know where to buy a set.........I guess I'm getting lazy .....had to make the last set :lol:
thanks in advance
max

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 3:08 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
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Location: Gaithersburg MD
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Maybe echoing others here, but the sub frame connectors in my "70 360 Dart made a very impressive difference in feel of car. It just felt more solid, and more together. I will do this on the '69 for sure. Mine were bolt in. I have added them to my Miata as well, (they are actually stainless steel caps that go over the unibody frame, and that made a big difference in that little car. The added roll bar in the Miata made it really feel solid as well. So, if you put a roll cage in an A body, I expect it would get even tighter. Don't know if that would fit your aesthetic though.

Sam

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 11:44 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: littlestown pa
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i got a 75 duster it reads 43 inchs and look easy enuf to make so if u want to do that

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 5:33 am 
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Location: Midland TX
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If you want custom made connectors contact MISTER TWISTER he will fabricate them for you at a reasonable cost..........bolt in or otherwise. Talented fabricator for sure.
MaX

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1964 signet conv. 170 turbo
Bonneville or Bust 2012
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 8:23 pm 
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Well, we ordered "bolt-ins" from XV Motorsports and they required about as much work as it was for me to cut and notch a 2x2 inch rectangular tube and WELD them in.

The point is I wouldn't waste the money, simply take it to a fabricator and tell them to install simple tubes.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 9:38 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
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Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
If I get serious about road racing my '66 Barracuda after Bonneville I might do the US Car tool subframe connectors. Or I might just fit some 2x2" square tube. My '66 Dart racer had 2x3" rectangular tube and the floor was cut to accommodate. Had a roll cage too. Most all the chassis flex was in front of the firewall. Have to strengthen the weakest area first to get the most improvement.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 10:17 pm 
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Location: Midland TX
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Point well taken gentlemen..............the fact is, I am paralyzed from the waist down and partial use of one arm but the other is ok.........as soon as the frame connectors get here, I will (with help) bolt them in ,level the car with scales and let it settle in .........then I will weld them in myself.
In the past I have fabricated dozens of frame connectors roll cages and dragster frames and tubular chassis. I am now in the process of fabricaing a FMRM salt racer...............with some help of course.
Have a good one and best regards
MAX

Please don't judge my choices as you haven't got a clue as to what it takes to get up in the morning and wonder just how long you can stay vertical. LOL*

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 7:53 pm 
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Supercharged

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My subframe connectors came from Mancini, and were simple bolt ins with no mods needed to speak of. I was very happy. I think the cost was only around $120 at the time.

Sam

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 4:53 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Me quoting me:
Quote:
wjajr:
I have a 67 vert that I installed bolt on sub-frame connectors fall of 2008. The car now feels as it is of one, rather than a front & rear attached by a hinge some where behind the front seat.


Where I installed a front anti sway bar, new torsion bars, sub frame connectors, and new rear springs all on the same day, I can’t tell which component made the greatest contribution to much improved over all handling dynamics.

Sub frame connectors can’t hurt a forty year old car missing its steel top that has been flexing, and resisting the gravitational pull of the earth all this time.

I also acquired my connectors from Mancini, they came with bolts, nuts & washers. On the ’67, I had to relocate the parking brake cable to a higher position where it passes through the cross member that the torsion bars mount to, and perform a little cutting around the rear torque boxes.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 5:34 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 8:25 am
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Location: Buenos Aires - Argentina
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San Powell and WJajr does the Mancini units looks the same as the Mopar units?
The first picture in this page I mean: http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/framconpac.html
So Mancini subframe will be the same as Mopar subframe connectors.

On the other hand were them true bolt on? With no cutting on the floor needed? Only a small cutting on the torque boxes?

I want subframe connectors, but I want true bolt on parts, I don't want to cut the floor on the car ...

Martin

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 5:36 am 
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Quote:
Please don't judge my choices as you haven't got a clue as to what it takes to get up in the morning and wonder just how long you can stay vertical. LOL*
Up for me isnt so bad. Its down and THEN back up that kills me. I think if anyone knew how drugged we are just to get out of bed they would S!)t themselves.
Right MAX?
Frank

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 6:46 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Polara1974:

[quote]On the other hand were them true bolt on? With no cutting on the floor needed? Only a small cutting on the torque boxes?[/quote]

Yes, yes, and yes…

I believe that these sub-frame connectors are genuine Mopar parts.

I did have to make a longitudinal slice in the torque box with a 4â€￾ cut off wheel. Also I recall making a few trim cuts or nibbles on the bar’s rear bracket so it would snug up to the frame member a bit tighter.

Left side of car:
[img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/1967%20Dart/100_1256.jpg[/img]

No floor board cutting was necessary, plenty of room for the bar with no contact with the floor.

Front, left side connection point of bar showing relocation of parking brake cable:
[img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/1967%20Dart/100_1257.jpg[/img]

If one wanted to, he could easily weld these units in place.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 7:34 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Nov 05, 2009 6:18 pm
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Location: Midland TX
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Frank...............thank you for your comment. If anyone knew then remarks would be slow in coming. I get a pain shot infusion on Monday and I'm as happy as a little kid. I'll be able to function for about six weeks and get these frame connectors in. Down and BACK up! impossible. :D :D :D :D Don't you just love the VA?

Have a good one Frank,
A Friend MaX

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1966 barracuda 360
1964 signet conv. 170 turbo
Bonneville or Bust 2012
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 10:07 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 8:25 am
Posts: 211
Location: Buenos Aires - Argentina
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Wjajr thanks for your imput. Now I'm 100% sure that those are what I need for my Mopar!!! Thanks!!

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1974 Dodge Polara RT 318cu.
1965 Valiant III Coronado Slant Six 6-Pack (soon!!)


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