hi, i am having a hard time posting pics but i got 2 on, but i have more pics to come. the water jackets are so clean you would think this bh block was just cast this week. i'm just getting ready to head to the machine shop for decking and boring. ron

Most people use a site like 'photobucket' to link their photos through.

Linda

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thank you for photobucket link. here are 3 engines i'm trying to get rebuilt in july. the 225 on ground has .015-.017 taper and is .171 in the hole and going to machine shop tomorrow. the head chambers cc'd at 60 . the 225 on the stand has a big valve 40 cc head and is .030 over with a .085 deck. i am rethinking the 11-1 comp ratio(9.5-1 dynamic)(i can get sunoco 110 leaded fuel right now, but what about the future?) and will use the 40 cc head on the bh block and carefully mill the 60cc head for the already done .085 block. a mopar 383 in the middle, but won't discuss that one here. i would still like the dynamic to be at 8.75-1 or 9-1 for performance. ron

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if you look carefully in the witches brew you can read the bubbles telling us to go 9-1 dynamic compression. doug, with the slants small bore and long stroke , isn't it more forgiving than other engines for increases in compression? doug ,also thank you for talking to deb on sunday and her letter and money is in the mail.

It's the long connecting rod (nice rod ratio) that helps the SL6 resist dontonation. The small bore reduces the amount of spark lead needed.
Even with all that, 9 to 1 DCR is pretty aggresive... I would feel better at 8.5 max. DCR with a street engine running today's pump gas.

In general, an engine with less compression and more spark lead runs better then a high compression engine, where the timing is reduced to prevent dontonation.
DD

OK Ronnie
Ill bite what is the "witches brew" and at what concentration. Looks pretty hot.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

its zep rust remover # 1470 mixed 1-1 in a 55 gal drum. i have tried the safe for the enviroment zep rust eraser #m99535 and it doesn't work. the rust remover as you can see works great and leaves a protective coating that prevents rusting. back to packing the van for carlisle. ron

Thanks Ron
Have fun at Carlise. I hope to one day drive one of my cars there and get to see the show.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

ZEP Rust Remover is phosphoric acid. It attacks rust, but it also etches sound metal.

A much less expensive method is electrolytic rust removal. Its difficult to do rust removal of the cooling jacket this way, but it can be done. You need to insert anodes into the passages and insulate the anodes so they don't electrically short circuit to the block.

Oxalic acid is less aggressive than phosphoric acid. It will remove the rust without significantly affecting sound metal. This is the acid used in heavy duty radiator cleaner. I just electrolytically derusted some junkyard wheels, and am in the process of removing the black rust and any rust in crevices with oxalic acid.

When using any acid, be sure the rusty part is completely submerged. If any portion is exposed to air, there will be a line etched into the part along the air/liquid interface. Atmospheric oxygen dissolves into the liquid and immediately attacks the metal because of the acidic liquid.

Ken