hey guys i aint been on here in forever been out messin with my duster all this time

so ive buttoned up my engine rebuild and ive got an erson 270 cam headers and its built to the brim with speed parts and well ya take off in this car and the 3.23s are a huge let down on the bottem end... its very slugish. the inner hot roder in me says drop in a set of 4.11s or 3.91s but thats to much for a daily driver so my plan is to run a set of 3.73s from randys ring and pinion and then swap it over to a 4 speed so i can get a good launch and get ok milage. has eny one on here used parts from randys ring and pinion? another question whats the chance of finding a volarie 8 1/4 rear end with like 3.55s or up shouldnt that be a direct bolt up to my duster?

and my other question is about my clutch linkage well you can dump the clutch and the pedal only comes up about 1/4 of its full travel and kinda hangs but it pops rite put if you pull up on it with your foot and ive kinda narrowed it down to two possable things the lever that runs from the z bar to the bell crank is severly worn where it pivots so that needs to be replaced eny way (where could i locate that llinkage peice?) and then i think the clutch return spring is either week or installed in the wrong place. do yall have eny pictures of how that spring is sposed to go? or where to find a stronger spring ot use?

thanks
Josh

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

The 3rd problem is the return spring under the dash is old and no longer has the power to assist the linkage in returning the pedal...replacing it would help...replacing it with one of the heavy duty return springs is better in the long run...

-D.Idiot

Not a stick trans expert,but a diaphram type pressure plate can cause this.MOPARs never came with one,and the over-center spring causes it to hang up.Wait a couple days for the "stick guys" to chime in with better info.And your weak low end might be cured with carb tuning,My 390 carb had .035 shooters,and it was drowning the engine in fuel,changing the shooters to .028,and experimenting with the shooter cams made a world of difference.

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

He would have had to swap to a Spec/McCleod/etc.. clutch which aren't "easy" to get...the instructions in the box are pretty specific once you install one you'll be removing the spring... (been there just done that...)

If the overcenter spring is "new" (Brewer's/Passon), then the next items to cause it to not pop back are the clutch fork bolt adjustment and as mentioned before lack of good bushings/lubrication/linkage springs.

-D.Idiot

alrite thanks guys ill try to get that spring underthe dash and that linkage peice that i need and ill be set thanks

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

I am swapping over to diaphragm clutches, and have one of Brewer's HD springs out of my duster, it's about 2 years old, but worked great when installed. If you're interested, I can can shoot you a PM this weekend with a price and shipping.

-D.Idiot

For what it is worth. The McLeod clutch and PP that we installed in Ryan's Dart had no instruction stating that the spring needed to be removed or that the pivot for the clutch fork needed to be space out quite a ways. Once we did that though, it has worked great.

Rick