re-doing a 68 barracuda, was a slant six / 904,, will still be a slant but moving to an a-833,, I have the pedals...looking at a hydraulic throw out bearing option, as I think that will simplify a few issues,,,another option would be to go hydraulic to the arm that actuates the throwout bearing.
any thoughts here?

thanks

I like the idea of the external pull cylinder myself. That way the throwout bearing stays simple and inexpensive. It also means hydraulic problems don't mean the trans has to come out. Speedway Motors has this one for a good price. There is also the Wilwood unit.

What are you planning for the clutch master cylinder?

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Joshua

Dudes! I'm currently doing the hydraulic clutch conversion even as we speak! Here's what I know:

At first, I was able to do a bunch of figuring and I found out that the concentric slave cylinder from a 93 jeep wrangler pretty much fits the 833OD. Seemed like this would be the way to go - it rides on the input shaft (input bearing retainer shaft) of the 833, and it's got the throwout bearing built right into it. NOT! I had to shave down the input shaft to fit the concentric bearing because they are slightly different in size. It bent up some lines and I got it to work...kind of. I couldn't get it bled, and it was tight working with it. So I got angry and decided to go to an external slave cylinder. It took about 30 minutes to figure out how to mount it to the bellhousing, and another 30 to figure out how to retain the pushrod on the clutch fork. No problem right? Mocked it up, and I CANNOT get the thing to move the clutch fork more than 1mm. Been scratching my head at this problem all week. I could be a bleeding issue, so I got a vacuume pump but STILL can't get it to work, though I get no air bubbles. It goes without saying that I'm on my third master cylinder, and I'm about to start swapping slaves.

I should mention that this is going in a Toyota pickup, so I'm married to the stock Toyota master cylinder (5/8" bore) and it's companion slave. I'm thinking that I might have to go to a bigger 1" cylinder, but when I look at the stock toyota transmissio it's the same size, same configuration as the 833 so it "should" work. If I go to a different master then I have to figure out how to adapt that to the firewall and it's a whole can of worms from there.

My advice - spend $130 bucks at Summit and get the master/pedal combo that bolts to the floor of your vehicle. It's GOT to be easier than the 6 week journey I've been on trying to get the damn clutch to work. I'd have had this swap on the road in July if it wasn't for this clutch problem.

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1965 Valiant wagon Turbo slant (work in progress)
2000 Chevy 155" cargo van - The Abductor
1970 Newport convertible
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon
1966 CruiseAire motor home
1990 Toyota 1 ton box truck TURBO slant (scraped)

I put a hyd throwout bearing in when I swapped to a T5. I would not recomend this. they leak, constantly. they are difficult to bleed. and expensive. the OE one your using out of a jeep might not have some of the problems of the aftermarket Mcleod I used. but since your putting a factory trans in a factory car I would try and use the factory linkage.

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7

I TOTALLY agree about using the stock z bar if at all possible. Heck, I'd use a cable if I could at this point. \

Put about 3 hours into it today - still no dice. I suspect that the 833OD, which came out of a D150, is just too heavy for the Toyota hydraulics to handle. The 5/8 master just doesn't put out enough fluid to make the thing move. I can move the 833 clutch fork by hand, so I know it's not binding, but it takes a LOT of muscle. Maybe someone put a fancy heavy clutch in at some point. Dunno. Don't care. Going to plan b.

Plan B is forking (pun!) over the dough for the custom McLeod or whoever's custom stuff. Before I do that, I'm going to shop around for a 1" or bigger Chevy truck clutch and slave combo. Might look at the Cummins stuff too. I'll post the results when I do the big posting on the whole Stantota project in the engine forum. You guys are going to throw up when you see what I've built.

Kip

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1965 Valiant wagon Turbo slant (work in progress)
2000 Chevy 155" cargo van - The Abductor
1970 Newport convertible
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon
1966 CruiseAire motor home
1990 Toyota 1 ton box truck TURBO slant (scraped)

I'm looking forward to seeing it!

FWIW, I have McLeod hydro TOB (concentric with input) on my T5 and have had zero problems in about 40k miles. I was pretty careful about getting geometry of pedal to master linkage and spacing the slave relative to the clutch. Did take a while to bleed the first time.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

the late 80's D-150 with slants and a-833's have externally mounted hydraulic clutch cylinders. I grabbed one out of the pick apart, from the clutch rod to the fire wall master cylinder to the hydraulic cylinder that pushed the throw out bearing arm..
Got a long way to go before I start this auto to manual conversion, so I don't know if it will fit in the A body i'm working on.

Made some progress on this clutch issue today. I got a Wilwood BRAKE master cylinder with a 1 1/8 bore for about $70. What's cool is it's got a remote resorvoir. It's got a cap with a fitting on it which goes over the top of the master cylinder, then a rubber hose and a tank on a bracket. That made fiting the thing in the Toyota a LOT easier. I also got a Wilwood kind of generic firewall mounting kit with it for $30. It's basically just a plate with some flush mounted allen screws to secure the MC to the plate. I had to drill a new hole, but I was able to mount the Wilwood MC to the stock Toyota studs that come thru the firewall.

Got it mounted, had to sawsall the pushrod to get it the right length, bled it and it seems like it works pretty good. It moves a TON of fluid compared to the wimpy stock Toyota 5/8th MC. Night and day. Bled easily, should be good to go.

So tommorow's project is the slave cylinder. Turns out that Mopar put it in /6 trucks in 87 only. I didn't buy it, but I saw a picture of it at Summit Racing. It appears that it requires a 90degree bracket of some kind to make it mount to the bellhousing. I could either fabricate this, or I could just find something else. Tommorow I'll pop down to Napa and see what they have. Looks like all the chevy stuff is pull-type. I'll have to look at Ford and maybe I'll look at V8 Toyota truck stuff as well. If that fails, I might be able to use TWO of the $12 toyota cylinders. I started playing with one today and got it to move an easy 1.2 inches. Two of them might have the balls to actually move the clutch fork. We'll see.

Kip

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1965 Valiant wagon Turbo slant (work in progress)
2000 Chevy 155" cargo van - The Abductor
1970 Newport convertible
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon
1966 CruiseAire motor home
1990 Toyota 1 ton box truck TURBO slant (scraped)

My 85 Dodge truck has the hydraulic clutch setup as well. So it is not just the 87's. The factory setup also has a pretty large slave cylinder and it is aimed out away from the bellhousing. I had hoped to use an external hydraulic setup on my Valiant, but this factory setup looks to take up way to much room if it was used on a car with headers.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6