I have run solid monts with some fairly healthy small blocks without any problems.

Best bet, drill 2 clearance holes (almost) through your rubber mount. Tap the inside for two 3/8-16 bolts. Put a fender washer on the bolts and run them down until you have 0.010-0.020 clearance (a match book cover thickness). Grind off the bolt protuding on the inside and then tack weld it. Use grade 8 stuff and it won't break. This mod will keep the "soft" mounts until you romp on the engine. Best of both worlds. I've done this on almost everything you can name except for /6's, but it should work.

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Gilly

1960 Dodge Pioneer
"Long Rod" /6, A833 Pistol grip Hurst
8 3/4" w/Suregrip and 3:91's
Still have more parts in boxes than on the car....

I take it you're talking about the LH (driver's side) mount? Are you saying to drill clear through the mount? I think I get what you're saying but I'm still kinda confused. Got pics?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Yeah, sounds like a neat trick, but I am a bit confused, too. Of course I'm not looking at a stock mount while writing this, but I'm trying to picture where the bolt heads go. More details, please. For that matter, why couldn't you bore a hole through the bracket, insulator, crossmember, the whole works, and put a big bolt thru with a locknut on one end with some clearance dialed in?

I built a torque strut for my Duster that goes between an angle I welded on the crossmember and one of the holes on the front of the block for the no-longer-existent power steering pump with a Heim joint. I use rubber shock absorber bushings and washers to dampen vibration, but I'm intrigued by the through bolt technique.

"DW"

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

what caulk u talkin bought, and i dont see how caulk would do much

ruster i believe he is talking about the urethane that dries really hard. I did this when i kept breaking front mounts on front drive stick shift daytonas I used to play with. (whew glad thats over back to rear wheel go for me)

Yes, the urethane caulk is the stuff I was reffering to. Usually you can get a left over tube from a local windsheild repair dude.

Damperdoc@aol.com advertises that he can rebuild mounts.

I had him rebuild a small block damper and the quality looks good, but I have no idea how reliable his product is. It wasn't cheap, but neither is a new one.